13.11.2023. Added juvenile foliage and amended adult foliage description of Glycosmis trifoliata

The juvenile leaves are elliptical to broad elliptical and may persist on older trees well after maturing. The leaves measure 90mm to 150mm in length by 45mm to 65mm in width. The terete petiole measures 5mm to 8mm in length. The bases are rounded while the apexes are broad accuminate. The symmetrical concolourous laminas are mid grass-green, semi glossy and glabrous. The laminas recurve upwards from the midvein to margins while the margins are entire. The midvein and lateral penniveins are prominent on the lower lamina and distinctly visible on upper lamina. The lateral veins form loops well inside the margin.

The terminal buds and young stems are glabrous to moderately covered in short brownish-red pubescent hairs. Glycosmis trifoliata’s alternate tri foliate leaflets are elliptical. The terminal or middle leaflet has a pulvinus, while the lateral leaflets do not. The leaflets measure 60mm to 150mm in length by 25mm to 65mm in width. The terete petiole measures 20mm to 25mm in length, while the terminal petiolule measures 4mm to 6mm in length and the two lateral petiolules measure 2mm to 3mm in length. The bases are rounded while the apexes are narrow obtuse. The symmetrical concolourous laminas are mid grass-green, semi glossy and glabrous. The laminas recurve upwards from the midvein to margins while the margins are entire. The midvein and lateral penniveins are prominent on the lower lamina and distinctly visible on upper lamina. The lateral veins form loops well inside the margin.

04.09.2023. Added new photograph of Dendrobium beetles in most articles on Dendrobium sp..

04.09.2023. Added new photograph of a densely marked flower form Dendrobium gracicaule.

 

28.08.2023. Spring time annuals

With yet another Winter Solstice behind us we can start to look at spring colour.

Australia has absolutely no shortage of spring flowering plants yet the exotics are the main annuals sold in nurseries.

I will discuss perennials next month but for now it’s time to start looking at some of our glorious annuals.

A look on the web shows a complete or almost so lack of Australian Native annuals yet there are some stunners out there that are easy to grow and once you have the seeds they are as easy as the so called exotics to grow on an annual basis.

Actinotis helianthus – If it’s white and grey you desire then the Flannel Flower is for you. It has strikingly, vivid white flowers are held aloft of the pale grey foliage. It has not gained the popularity it deserves. As an annual it thrives in the garden where full sun with excellent drainage and where the sandy soils are continually lightly mulched between the plants. It self seeds and can be treated as a perennial having some flowers throughout year with a definite peak between October and November. If growing from seed place the seeds directly into a good seed raising mix allowing them to just dry out between each watering until they are ready to be planted out. Place at 500mm centres and water thoroughly until established. It tolerates light frosts and is drought tolerant once established so if you are away or forget the watering it will remain in good health. It can be used in massed plantings or informally placed between other small plants or inter planted with other annuals with deep coloured flowers for best results. It also looks particularly good in rockeries scattered amongst rocks or boulders. An occasional dressing of Blood and bone or Dynamic lifter will encourage better flowering.

Below: Actinotis helianthus growing in its natural environment along Australia’s east coast on sand or on sandy escarpments

Brachyscome multifida – Cut leaf Daisy is gaining popularity as an annual that thrives in the garden in full sun with better drainage and where the soils are continually mulched between the plants. It tolerates sandy loams to light clays. It self seeds and can be treated as a perennial flower, flowering all year. If growing from seed place the seeds directly into a good seed raising mix and keep moist until they are ready to be planted out. Place at 250mm centres and water thoroughly until established. The deep green foliage contrasts beautifully with the flowers, which now come in deep purple-pinks to pascal purple, pinks and white. It copes with light to moderate frosts and is drought tolerant once established so if you are away or forget the watering it will remain healthy. It can be used in massed plantings or informally placed between other small plants or inter planted with other annuals. It also looks particularly good in rockeries scattered amongst rocks or boulders. And if you feel peckish you can feast out on the leaves or flowers. An occasional dressing of Blood and bone or Dynamic lifter will encourage good flowering.

Below: Brachyscome multifida growing on pure sand over sandstone.

Chrysocephalum apiculatum – Yellow Buttons is an often overlooked annual that thrives in the garden in full sun with better drainage and where the soils are continually lightly mulched. It self seeds and can be treated as a perennial flower, flowering all year. The pale blue foliage contrasts beautifully with the flowers. It copes with light to moderate frosts and is drought tolerant so if you are away or forget the watering it will stand its ground. It can be used in massed plantings or informally placed between other small plants or inter planted with other annuals. It also looks particularly good in rockeries scattered amongst rocks or boulders. An occasional dressing of Blood and bone or Dynamic lifter will encourage good flowering.

Chrysocephalum apiculatum growing successfully on white sand over sandstone in author’s garden in average rainfall season.

Dampier diversifolia – Propagation is normally from cuttings, which strike easily in late spring, summer and early autumn. Cutting grown plants may take several months to establish themselves in the garden, after which it spreads to about 1 meter in diameter. The stems can be pinned down to grow new plants, which will root at the nodes. It requires better quality friable soil to grow at its best.

Dampier stricta – This is an east coast annual which is almost entirely overlooked by gardeners. Seeds propagate easily but are difficult to collect. Sit sparingly suckers so small numbers can be propagated by severing the suckers and treated as rooted cuttings.

Dampiera sp. can be used in massed plantings or informally placed between other small plants or inter planted with other annuals. They look particularly good in rockeries scattered amongst rocks or boulders. An occasional dressing of Blood and bone or Dynamic lifter will encourage good flowering.

Below: Dampier stricta grows naturally on our block in pure sand and responds beautifully when given a little mulch, horse manure and water.

Ptilotus exaltatus – the feather flowers are beautiful erect annuals of the semi-arid zones of Australia to the coast in drier areas. The vibrant pinks, unusual shapes and strong stems provide a favourable aesthetic with their suitability in most areas should guarantee their growing popularity. It thrives in the garden in full sun, in sandy soils with excellent drainage and where the soils are lightly mulched. It self seeds and can be treated as a perennial flower, flowering all year. The bright green foliage contrasts beautifully with the pink flowers. It tolerates light frosts and is drought tolerant so if you are away or forget the watering it will stand its ground. It can be used in massed plantings or informally placed between other small plants or inter planted with other annuals. It is one annual that can be used in semi-arid areas or to replicate an arid garden giving colour to a harsh desert scene. It also looks particularly good in rockeries scattered amongst rocks or boulders. Seeds have a low percentage viability so should be planted more densely than other plants. The flowers are very suitable as cut flowers. An occasional dressing of Blood and bone or Dynamic lifter will encourage good flowering and larger blooms.

Below: Ptilotus exaltus looks great and is another little Ausie often overlooked in home gardens. It grows easilly from seed though seed can be erratic in some seasons.

I am always astounded at the number of comments I get when the various species of Rhodanthe sp. and Xerochrysum bracteatum come into flower in my garden. I will deal with them here as a single unit but don’t be surprised if photographers approach you for photos or neighbours ask for more details and seed. These paper daisies are just that spectacular they rival any exotic when in flower and are just as easy to grow and maintain. The Rhodanthe sp. occur in every hue of pink to white while the Xerochrysum bracteatum can be found in every conceivable colour range of reds through to yellow. Their size and habit make them ideally suited for use in an open garden or as a rockery plant either mass planted or as individuals. Some forms like Xerochrysum bracteatum var. Diamond head is especially suited to exposed situations even where salt laden winds occurr, while the more upright forms prefer sheltered location in full sun to light shade

It is best used in massed plantings between other small plants with contrasting coloured flowers or inter planted with other annuals. It also looks particularly good in rockeries scattered amongst rocks or boulders in a barren type look. An occasional dressing of Blood and bone or Dynamic lifter will encourage better flowering.

Below: Xerochrysum bracteatum showing two distinct colour variations and two different types of plant growth.

The bottom photo is of a Rhodanthe sp. growing in the wild near Ebor Falls in NSW.

Scaevola aemula – The Fan flower is a fast growing plant that roots readily at the nodes especially if pegged down for a short period.  The seeds need to be sown fresh and the cuttings need to be semi-ripe, placed in sand and taken in the warmer months of the year. It thrives in most well drained soils in full sun to dappled shade that have a rich compost layer. It is frost sensitive and does not do well in colder areas. In frost free areas it is very hardy and contrasts yellow and red flowers magnificently.

It can be used in massed plantings remembering it will grow several meters in diameter if allowed to spread, however it is easily contained if a smaller area is required. It also looks exceptionally good in rockeries scattered amongst rocks or boulders. An occasional dressing of blood and bone or Dynamic lifter will encourage good flowering and healthy deep green foliage.

Below: Scaevola aemula is an annual which can be easily grown as a perennial and has the distinct advantage of flowering all year.

Swainsonia formosa – Sturt’s desert pea is the floral emblem for South Australia, famous for its eye-catching blood-red petals, each with a black pea-like center. It also has the advantage of being an excellent cut flower. It requires full sun and perfect drainage is essential for success. It is often classified as the most difficult Australian native to grow yet there is a secret and we have had successive successes.

The plants resent root disturbance and repotting so pre weeding is essential. When growing from seed, first the seeds need to be scarified before sowing to allow imbibition of water to occur. Sow a few seeds directly into each jiffy pot or peat pots in place beneath 30% shade. Wet the pots and allow to dry out before watering again. When the seedlings very first roots appear at the bottom of the pots plant them out into a hot sunny position and water well. Most areas will not require another watering. They will thrive in sandy open uncrowded conditions and flower magnificently.

Though the plants originated from a harsh arid, environment, the Sturt’s Desert Pea is a rather heavy feeder. Regular fertilizing (bimonthly) of a controlled release fertilizer or a small application of raw blood and bone allows the plant to grow quickly to maturity and produce larger displays of their brilliant red flowers.

https://www.bhg.com.au/australian-native-flowers-a-guide-to-australian-flowers

Wahlenbergia communis – Native Bluebells is a widespread specie from the coast to inland areas of Australia. It is at home on sands to loams where plenty of mulch is available. It is easy to cultivate from fresh seed sown directly into a good seed raising mix. It copes with light to moderate frosts and is drought tolerant once established so if you are away or forget the watering it may wilt but recovers rapidly following a good soaking. It can be used in massed plantings or informally placed between other small plants or inter planted with other annuals. It also looks particularly good in raised garden beds, rockeries scattered amongst rocks or boulders. An occasional dressing of Blood and bone or Dynamic lifter will encourage good flowering.

Store

Below: Wahlenbergia communis photographed by andi Mellis, taken at The North Coast Botanic Gardens Coffs Harbour NSW.

All the above annuals have the additional bonus of attracting native bees, like Tetragonula sp. and butterflies to the garden.

19.08.2023 Added photo with Acrobates pygmaeus on Grevillea banksii – Grevillea banksii

19.08.2023 Added photos and deleted some of Acacia baeuerlenii.

 

23.07.2023 Fire Retardant Plants

Fire Retardant Plants

Fire researchers and climatologists researchers have predicted fires will become more severe, more frequent, and more widespread as a result of climate change especially during periods of La Nina and El nino.

Between 2020 and 2022, Australia as did the rest of the world experienced triple La Niña episodes in a row, which stopped global temperatures from increasing as much as they otherwise would have as a result of human-caused climate change. Despite this very rare ‘triple dip’ La Niña, the EU’s climate monitoring service stated that 2022 was the fifth warmest year on record.

Scientists are predicting with great accuracy that a return to El Niño conditions, on top of climate change, will make it an almost certainty that new global temperature records will be set during the next five years. July 2023 was the hottest month on record with extensive bush fires burning out of control in many parts of Europe, north Africa, Canada and America. The 2019 Australian bushfires increased Australia’s net carbon dioxide inputs by a massive 800%.

There needs to be a lot more research on how Fire Retardant Plant Species, (FRPS or FRS) can be used to quell fires in the early stages and once the fire has taken hold. I do not claim to have all the answers and I am not privileged to have all the available information in my procession.

What is meant when people say Fire Retardant Plants?

Can plants really protect your property, your home or your outbuildings from fire?

The answer to both questions is complex and are as varied as there are plants. There are many characteristics which can determine whether a plant is more resistant to a fire. Looking at the first question the analyses of the individual’s characteristics will determine just how well a plant can cope with fire. Some of those characteristics will include:

Thick fleshy leaves,

Low growing dense foliage,

Foliage parallel to the ground,

Foliage does not contain volatile oils,

Plants that cope better in droughts or periods of dry weather,

Plants that cope well in extreme heat conditions,

Leaves that contain salt, and

The ability to suppress strong winds.

Added to the above the old adage when buying real estate also applies here, “Position Position Position” is extremely important when designing a fire retardant garden.

There is a lot, the home owner can do to help their plants become better Fire Retardant species. The use of a FRS planted amongst fire tinder plants on an uphill slope will do little to protect the property on the upside, whereas that same plant grown amongst other FRS with swales, the elimination of a middle tier and the use of size to deflect wind will enhance the properties security immeasurably.  

Plants should be grown to help protect infrastructure, and should be selected as much for their beauty notating the many characteristics above, which will enhance the affects, so that a properties chances in a fire are diminished. The right plants planted in the right locations will have a remarkable ability in protecting property. In the 2019/20 wild fires; some homes were not burnt in in our area, which were surrounded by plants. A local Brigade captain told me at a street meeting recently, in which I espoused the use of fire retardant plants that “The only home north of Ewingar that did not burn should have been the one that burnt to the ground.” Why I asked? She admitted that the house was surrounded by trees and had ‘Agapanthus lilies’ 5 meters out from the family home. This is one of many examples where fire retardant plants may have had a positive effect. The exotic Agapanthus could have been exchanged for the Native Crinum pedunculatum or Alocassia brisbaniensis. This home obviously had more than just the plants planted immediately surrounding the home as the chicken coop and other out buildings also escaped damage. Luck or ingenious planting?

In my opinion the brigades should have returned and asked some very pertinent questions. Were the building materials the same as the other homes destroyed, how were the plantings carried out, were the plants recognised FRS, which way did the fire come from, what was the terrain like, how did the wind and eddies affect the situation, how were the swales positioned around the garden, a hundred questions required answers and the opportunity to have them answered was lost.

For millions of years bush fires; from lightning strikes, have landscaped the Australian bush. The flora and fauna best suited to these fires, survived and flourished in a drying landscape, while others retreated in rainforests and transitional zones. Fire is inevitable and has a role in regeneration of many plants. These fires were generally cooler burns and occurred at less frequent periods often several decades apart. “Lower stature Eucalyptus forests have typical fire intervals between over 7 years and up to over 30 years with other cases ranging between 20 and 100 years not the every year back burns that are often seen practiced recently.” Many Australian plants and animals have adapted to these infrequent cool burns as part of their life cycle. Changing that regime changes the bio density and flora. https://www.nature.com/articles/s41467-021-27225-4

In recent years human developments in bushland areas have increased the risk of bush fires not mitigated the chances. Landowners can significantly diminish the impact of bush fires by understanding how fires react in their environment, what plants burn freely and what plants help retard a fires progress. Reducing the impact levels that cause fires to crown, reduce the speed of the fires, the heat radiated from the fires and to an extent change the type of fuel available to the fires.

The Rural Fire Service highly recommends the creation and maintenance of an ‘Asset Protection Zone’ or APZ. A well located and maintained APZ should be used in conjunction with other preparations such as good property maintenance, appropriate building materials and developing a family action plan if a fire is encountered. WHAT IS AN ASSET PROTECTION ZONE? An Asset Protection Zone (APZ) is a fuel reduced area surrounding your home or out buildings.

An APZ provides:

* a buffer zone between the natural bush and a structure on the property;

* an area of reduced bush fire fuel that allows better fire suppression;

* an area from which control burning may be conducted in an emergency in a safer manner. Control burns often create more fire prone weeds over a period of time which are more susceptible to increasing the intensity of future fires; and

* an area which allows emergency services access and provides a relatively safe area for firefighters and home owners to defend their property. Potential bush fire fuels should be minimized within an APZ.

The area surrounding our home was cleared 20 meters around the home by law at the time. Now that stands at 30 meters. It is this area and merging into the native bush that we created our FRS zone.

The vegetation within the planned zone should not provide a path for the transfer of fire to the asset either from the ground level or through the tree canopy.

Note the ground level is free of grass and debris, the middle tier is almost void while the bark on trees is solid not flaky or fibrous. The ground is in almost permanently in shade and has a light covering of mulch which retains moisture. Rock edgings are placed to assists in retaining moisture like miniature swales and to define beds. Trees are spaced to help eliminate competition for moisture and to break up wind flow. Here the temperatures recorded during February were up to 35 degrees Celsius cooler than ground temperatures 50 meters away in an exposed grassed paddock.

How fire retardant plants work:

There are several reasons that fires present which have to be taken into consideration when preparing your property to make it safer.

Radiant heat is the heat you feel when standing near a fire. Radiant heat is the biggest killer in fires, and the best protection from radiant heat is distance and barriers. Clear felling and the leaving of non FRPS in this area actually increases the radiant heat from fires as there is no natural barrier between the fire and the dwellings to deflect this radiant heat. Note the differences where buildings are surrounded by trees or in the open. Temperatures vary much more in the exposed positions.

Ember attack is the most common method where out buildings and structures are engulfed in fire. During bushfires especially wild fires, burning twigs, leaves and pieces of debris that can be carried by the wind across the land on or around structures, especially into gutters filled with leaves, so keep your gutters free of debris. Again clear felling in this area actually increases the number of embers which can come in contact with the ground, home and outbuildings increasing the chances of loss. FRPS are known to collect embers preventing them from starting spot fires in advance of the main fire.

Speed of a fire is enhanced mainly by topography, temperatures and wind. Fires create their own wind and the hotter the fire the greater the chance of fire storms or internal winds developing. Fires will always travel up slopes faster than down slopes. FRPS correctly positioned and the correct use of swales cannot be overemphasized to help reduce a fires attack.

Wind shear and eddies play a huge role in fires, especially along fire breaks and adjacent to forests where the land is cleared. Fires travelling parallel to a fire break will use the cleared section, usually containing dried grasses and annuals as a wind tunnel. The Eddies created often see speeds, which are much greater than the prevailing wind at the time. By planting a strong wall like row of trees will actually enhance shear and eddies.

Below is a typical wind eddy where the wind blows across the top of the trees then suddenly eddies around the cleared zone. At this point the fire can pick up more embers before dropping them further afield. This was a common occurrence in the 2019 bush fires where the fire gained speed and acted erratically across flat and gentle sloping grassy fields. Undulation on cleared grasslands create perfect eddies.

https://www.boldmethod.com/blog/lists/2022/09/four-most-common-sources-of-wind-shear-at-low-altitude/

Trees will naturally break at wind speeds of 24m/sec or 152 kilometers/hour. This is always a risk along firebreaks and where there is a sudden or abrupt cessation of trees. I have adopted the centre model below around our home using Fire retardant trees and ground covers. There is a lack of shrubs in this area which helps to eliminate the chances of crown fires. Further out (in the fire hazard zone) I have adopted an area where a transitional zone occurs in the forest using fire retardant trees and ground covers. To ensure that good maintenance is carried out I have planted mainly native fruit trees and shrubs like Antidesma erostre, Dendrocnide excelsa (Stinging Tree) and Glycosmis trifoliate to mention a few. The barrier along the road front I have employed the use of many different species of Brachychiton and transitional zone trees like Araucaria bidwillii, Flindersia xanthoxyla and Micromelum minutum with ground covers like Myoporum boninense, Goodenia grandiflora and various species of Hibbertia like Hibbertia diffusa and Hibbertia riparia. The use of swales has an important function to reduce water flow and to create moist spots even during the worst droughts. This also utilizes water from off the road allowing the FRPS to grow under more favorable conditions.

A well planted area with FRS and areas of natural bush will take many years to come to fruition where the above qualities are fully realized. Our managed area has taken 15 years to develop, while the surrounding bushland is still undergoing change where the understory plants are slowly dissipating leaving the taller trees as the dominant feature. This area could take 40 or more years as we saw surrounding our orchard at Nan Glen, which had not seen a fire, clearing or disturbance for 65 years.

https://www.rfs.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0010/13321/Standards-for-Asset-Protection-Zones.pdf

Fuel types and Fuel loads Trends are strongly effected by climate change, human activity and time since the last disturbance, all contribute in determining fire risk of a given locality. In Australia controlled burns altar the natural frequency and type of fuel available to fires. There is much debate on the use of controlled back burns as a value to reduce fire risk, particularly during extreme fire weather conditions. Fuel types change over time with multiple frequent burning increasing more fire prone vegetation, highly volatile grasses like whiskey grass, Andropogon virginicus of annuals and short lived perennials over fire retardant longer lived perennials. Fire loads have a tendency to increase with subsequent burns and their distribution and structure are key determinants of fire spread, intensity and severity.

“…. it is very likely that fuel management had no effect on the observed multi-decadal increasing trend in the burned area of forest fires. We also note that the main objective of fuel management is to reduce fire risk and severity, which might or might not result in reduced total burned area.” – Morgan, G. W. et al. Prescribed burning in south-eastern Australia: history and future directions. Aust. 83, 4–28 (2020).

Many grasses have fine vertical leaves, which under stress become infernos, whereas heavier chunky mulches that keep the soil temperatures cooler and help retain moisture by not allowing evaporation are used extensively. Look at burning a match by holding it upside down and then horizontally. Which burns the quickest? Mulches often retain more moisture, whereas weeds utilize whatever soil moisture is available. Mulches help create moist, cool microclimates. That’s why horizontal mulches are far better than a grassed or barren areas, which dry out very quickly on the onset of hot dry weather.

Shade is another extremely important aspect of temperature control and fire behavior. The cooler an area the lower the fire risk or at least the slower the burn and less intensity of the radiant heat which leads to less ember attack. The Syzygium australe, Flindersia schottiana and Cupaniopsis anachariodes are in our APZ area for this very reason. Even here there is a strong contrast in temperature differences.

Some of the typical temperatures I took during the month of February/March (02.02.2023 to 06.03.2023) are as follows:

The ground temperature were taken 30 meters to the south of the Cupaniopsis anachariodes in an open grassy paddock in the full sun.

The veranda was actually in the colour bond garage/computer room.

North end and south end were areas where natural Eucalyptus forests occurred.

Fire retardant trees systematically spaced will reduce wind speed near a building and also trap embers and sparks carried by the wind.

Fire retardant ground covers are able to catch burning embers without catching fire themselves, halt the embers from reaching the ground and also slow the travel of a fire through debris and litter on the ground.

Fuels can be controlled by:

1. Raking or manual removal of fine fuels. Ground fuels such as fallen leaves, twigs (less than 6 mm in diameter) and bark should be removed on a regular basis and mulched. This is fuel that burns quickly and increases the intensity of a fire.

2. Mowing or grazing of grass. Grass needs to be kept short and, where possible, well-watered so that it remains green and lush. This is difficult or even impossible during drought or during heat wave conditions.

3. Removal or pruning of trees and understory. The control of existing vegetation involves both selective fuel reduction (removal, thinning and pruning) and the retention of vegetation. Prune or remove trees so that you do not have a continuous tree canopy leading from the hazard to the asset. Separate tree crowns by two to five meters or have the crowns at different levels when mature. A canopy should not overhang within two to five meters of a dwelling. Native trees and shrubs; that are FRS, should be retained as clumps or islands and should maintain a covering of around 60% of the area.

When choosing plants for removal, the following rules need to be adhered to:

1. Remove noxious and environmental weeds first. A list of noxious weeds can be obtained from your local council or at www.agric.nsw.gov.au/ noxweed/;

2. Remove more flammable species such as plants that have rough, flaky or stringy bark. Be aware of trees that have decorticating barks as these need cleaning on an annual basis. Some like Corymbia curtisii have a smooth bark but need to be cleaned annually after decortication is finished;

3. Remove or thin understory plants, saplings and shrubs 1 meter to three meters in height. This will happen naturally over time but is best hasten for top protection. The removal of significant native species should be avoided.

4. Contouring with the use of swales. Swales will slow water movement across the land and allows for deeper penetration of water. Swales also allow for a greater variation of better fire retardant plants. We employed paving bricks (over 250 meters) lined with large rocks contoured to slow water movement and increase water penetration.

Erosion must be considered when ploughing or using consistent high maintenance slashing particularly along fire breaks

The use of hard surfaces driveways, paths – Other protective features You can also take advantage of existing or proposed protective features such as fire trails, gravel paths, rows of trees, dams, creeks, swimming pools, tennis courts and vegetable gardens as part of the property’s APZ.

PLANTS FOR BUSH FIRE PRONE GARDENS: When designing your garden it is important to consider the type of plant species you like and their retardant characteristics as well as their placement and arrangement. Given the right conditions, all plants will burn. However, some plants are far less flammable than others.

Avoid:

1. 1. Trees with loose, fibrous or stringy bark;

Leptospermum trinervum has a beautiful bark but is a fire hazard. We maintained a few pockets further out, as it is the main tree for the beautiful Yellow Breasted Robins, Eopsaltria griseogularis to nest in.

2. Trees with fine foliage and

3. Foliage’s with an oil content. These trees and shrubs can easily ignite and encourage the ground fire to spread up to, and then through, the crown of the trees.

Look at:  

1. 1. Trees and ground covers that have thick leathery or fleshy leaves’

1. 1. Trees, small shrubs or ground covers with a high salt content;

1. 1. Smooth barks without “ribbons” hanging from branches or trunks;

Typical growth habit of Cupaniopsis anachariodes above with thick smooth fleshy leaves, a dense canopy for reflecting radiated heat and trapping embers and a good fire retardant smooth trunk below.

• • Dense crown and elevated branches.

• • Deciduous trees have a great advantage when they have no or few leaves. Most Australian native deciduous trees are leafless at the end of the dry season. Eg. Brachychiton rupestre or Brachychiton acerifolius.

Trunk of Brachychiton acerifolius

For further information on appropriate plant species for your local council area contact the local “Australian Native Plant Society”. As a general rule, plant trees at the same distance away from the asset as their maximum height. When creating a wind break, do not forget that the object is to slow the wind, redirect the wind and to catch embers with the plants selected rather than trying to block the wind.

Another approach is the 10/50 vegetation clearing.

If you live in an area close to the bush, you need to prepare your home. The 10/50 Vegetation Clearing Scheme gives people living near the bush an additional way of being better prepared for bush fires.

The scheme allows people in a designated area to:

Clear trees on their property within 10 metres of a home, without seeking approval; and

Clear underlying vegetation such as shrubs (but not trees if they are FRS) on their property within 50 metres of a home, without seeking approval.

You can find out if your property is in a 10/50 Vegetation by contacting your local council.

Image showing the clearing of trees within 10 metres of a home and vegetation within 50 metres of a home.

Important changes to the 10/50 scheme

Further changes have been announced to the 10/50 Vegetation Clearing Scheme. Legislative changes came into effect on 28 August 2015 and the 10/50 Vegetation Clearing Code of Practice has now been amended and takes effect commencing 4 September 2015.

You must now consider how the following changes affect your clearing proposal:

The definition of a tree has been amended to include multi-stemmed trees. This means you can no longer remove multi-stemmed trees beyond 10 metres.

The distance at which a tree may be removed has been clarified. You may only remove a tree if any part of the trunk that measures more than 30 centimetres in circumference (around the trunk) at a height of 1.3 metres above the ground, is within 10 metres of the external wall of the building.

If you are using the distance from a building on your neighbours land to use the 10/50 entitlement (and your buildings are not within 10 metres or 50 metres respectively), you must receive their written consent. Where the tree or vegetation is within 10 metres or 50 metres respectively of buildings on more than one adjoining parcel of land, you must receive written consent from each landowner who adjoins your land.

Clearing adjacent to farm sheds is now permitted under the 10/50 scheme.

A range of other changes to the 10/50 scheme are now in place in accordance with the commencement of the amended 10/50 Vegetation Clearing Code of Practice. Please review the amended Code of Practice and FAQs below in relation to your proposed clearing.

Changes to areas covered by the rule

The 10/50 Vegetation Clearing Scheme was introduced following the devastating 2013 bush fires in which more than 200 properties were destroyed.

The NSW Rural Fire Service (NSW RFS), in partnership with the Department of Planning and Environment and the Office of Environment and Heritage, undertook a formal review of the 10/50 Vegetation Clearing Scheme. It is clear from some submissions and feedback that while the scheme is designed to reduce bush fire risk, there has been some abuse of the fuel reduction provisions for other purposes.

As a result of the review of the 10/50 scheme, the entitlement area has been amended. The reduced entitlement area of 100m from higher risk vegetation has been maintained, covering 85 per cent of properties historically destroyed in a bush fire.

The easiest way to work out if you’re covered by the eligible area is checking the online tool. The tool contains the latest information on areas covered by the rule.

We carried out extensive temperature measurements during the early months of 2023 and are convinced that trees and ground covers with thick fleshy leaves and no oil content, have a decisive cooling factor on the area below the plants and in the vicinity where shade occurs. On our property Syzygium australe, Cupaniopsis anacharioides, several species of Plectranthus sp. now included in Coleus genus and a well established rainforest garden of several species of palms like Archontophoenix cunninghamiana, Livistona decora, Livistona australis, ferns Asplenium australis, Microsorum punctatum, mature trees like Alphitonia excelsa, Elaeocarpus reticulatus and Glochidion ferdinandi etc. On the hottest days the ground temperature was up to 70 degrees, yet 50 meters away beneath the rain forest and 30 meters to Syzygium australe the temperature was up to 45 degrees cooler. The average temperature difference on sunny days was 19.7 degrees cooler. In a shaded area in the dry schlerophyll forest just 40 meters away the temperature was 5 degrees warmer than in the shade of the Syzygium australe, Cupaniopsis anacharioides and beneath the various species of Coleus.  The rainforest had very similar readings to the Syzygium australe.

It is best to eliminate shrubs or middle tier plants in the immediate vicinity of dwellings to help reduce crown fires.

Fire Retardant Plants. It is important to use fire retardant plants native to your area even down to using local gene pool material if available. While the list below is relatively long choose plants carefully.

Plants that will resist a fire’s first wave in a bushfire, and still hold up strongly on the second wave if it occurs are as follows:

Botanical name  – Common name      

Acmena smithii – Lillypilly

Asplenium australis – Birds Nest Fern

Asplenium nidus – Birds Nest Fern

Atriplex cinerea – Coast Saltbush 

Atriplex leptocarpa – Slender-fruit Saltbush

Atriplex limbata – Spreading Saltbush   

Atriplex lindleyi  – Flat-top Saltbush      

Atriplex nummularia – Old-man Saltbush     

Atriplex rhagodioides – Silver Saltbush   

Atriplex semibaccata – Berry Saltbush

Atriplex vesicaria – Bladder Saltbush     

Bambusa arnemica – Large Clumping Bamboo

Carpobrotus glaucescens – Coastal Pigface

Carpobrotus modestus – Inland Pigface  

Carpobrotus rossii – Karkalla  

Carpobrotus virescens – Pigface   

Chenopodium desertorum – Frosted Goosefoot    

Crinum pedunculatum – Native Lily

Dissocarpus biflorus

Disphyma crassifolium ssp. – Clavellatum, Rounded, Noon-flower

Einadia hastata  – Saloop    

Einadia nutans ssp. nutans – Nodding Saltbush     

Enchylaena tomentosa – Ruby Saltbush  

Eremophila debilis – Creeping Emu-bush  

Goodenia grandiflora

Hakea salicifolia – Willow-leaved hakea 

Lomandra hystrix

Lomandra longifolia

Lomandra spicata

Maireana brevifolia – Short-leaf Bluebush  

Maireana decalvans – Black Cotton-bush     

Maireana enchylaenoides – Wingless Bluebush    

Maireana erioclada– Rosy Bluebush 

Maireana excavata – Bottle Bluebush

Maireana georgei – Slit-wing Bluebush   

Maireana microphylla – Small-leaf Bluebush  

Maireana oppositifolia – Heathy Bluebush

Maireana pentagona – Hairy Bluebush

Maireana pentatropis – Erect Bluebush

Maireana pyramidata – Sago Bush

Maireana radiata – Radiant Bluebush

Maireana rohrlachii – Rohrlach’s Bluebush

Maireana sedifolia – Pearl Bluebush

Maireana turbinata – Satiny Bluebush

Melia azedarach – White Cedar

Mimulus repens – Creeping Monkey-flower

Myoporum boninense – Coastal Boobialla

Myoporum insulare – Common Boobialla

Myoporum parvifolium – Creeping Myoporum

Myoporum petiolatum

Rhagodia candolleana – Seaberry Saltbush

Rhagodia crassifolia – Fleshy Saltbush

Rhagodia parabolica – Fragrant Saltbush

Rhagodia spinescens – Hedge Saltbush

Sarcocornia quinqueflora – Bead Weed (Has great potential as a food vegetable in Chinese like dishes)

Sarcozona praecoxa – Sarcozona

Scaevola aemula – Blue Fan-Flower

Scaevola calendulacea – Dune Fan-flower

Scaevola hookeri – Creeping Fan-flower

Shoenoplectus mucronatus

Sclerolaena diacantha – Grey Copperburr

Sclerolaena spp – All Copperburrs

Selliera radicans – Shiny Swamp-mat

Sesuvium portulacastrum

Syzigium australe – Lilly Pilly

Syzigium leuhmanii – Lilly Pilly

Syzigium oleosum – Lilly Pilly

Tecticornia – all – edible with a taste reminiscent of asparagus & forget the salt

Tecticornia australasica

Tecticornia halocnemoides

Tecticornia indica

Tecticornia pergranulata

Zygophyllum apiculatum – Pointed Twin-leaf

Zygophyllum billardierei – Coast Twin-leaf

Zygophyllum spp. – All Twin-leaf plants

Fire Retardant Plants. Plants that will not burn in the first wave of a bushfire, but may burn once dried out in a second wave:

Botanical name  – Common name 

Acacia acinacea – Gold-dust Wattle       

Acacia argyrophylla    – Silver Mulga     

Acacia baileyana – Cootamundra Wattle 

Acacia binervia  – Coast Myall      

Acacia brachybotrya – Grey Mulga      

Acacia buxifolia – Box-leaf Wattle

Acacia caerulescens – Limestone Blue Wattle       

Acacia cardiophylla – Wyalong Wattle

Acacia complanata – Flat stem wattle

Acacia cultriformis – Knife-leaf Wattle      

Acacia Cyclops – Western Coastal Wattle      

Acacia dealbata – Silver Wattle    

Acacia deanei – Deane’s Wattle

Acacia decora – Western Silver Wattle       

Acacia decurrens – Early Black-wattle    

Acacia elata – Cedar Wattle   

Acacia farinosa  – Mealy Wattle    

Acacia fimbriata – Fringed Wattle 

Acacia floribunda – White Sallow-wattle  

Acacia glandulicarpa – Hairy-pod Wattle      

Acacia howittii – Sticky Wattle    

Acacia implexa – Lightwood

Acacia iteaphylla – Flinders Range Wattle

Acacia kettlewelliae – Buffalo Wattle  

Acacia ligulata – Small Cooba    

Acacia mearnsii – Black Wattle    

Acacia melanoxylon    – Blackwood       

Acacia microcarpa – Manna Wattle   

Acacia nano-dealbata – Dwarf Silver Wattle   

Acacia obliquinervia – Mountain Hickory Wattle    

Acacia oswaldii  – Umbrella Wattle

Acacia pendula – Weeping Myall  

Acacia penninervis – Hickory Wattle  

Acacia podalyriifolia – Queensland Silver Wattle   

Acacia pravissima – Ovens Wattle   

Acacia prominens – Gosford or Golden Rain Wattle    

Acacia salicina – Willow Wattle   

Acacia saligna – Golden Wreathe Wattle               

Acacia stenophylla – Eumong  

Acacia terminalis – Sunshine Wattle      

Acacia vestita –  Hairy Wattle       

Acmena smithii

Ajuga australis – Austral Bugle   

Alectryon oleifolius ssp canescens – Cattle Bush      

Alyxia buxifolia  – Sea Box  

Angophora costata – Smooth-barked Apple

Avicennia marina subsp. australasica – Mangrove

Blechnum neohollandicum – Prickly Rasp-fern

Blechnum parrisiae – Common Rasp-fern

Brachychiton – all

Brachychiton acerifolius – Flame tree

Brachychiton australis

Brachychiton populneus – Kurrajong

Brachychiton rupestris – Bottle tree

Bursaria spinosa Sweet Bursaria   

Cheilanthes austrotenuifolia – Green Rock-fern               

Cheilanthes sieberi – Narrow Rock-fern

Cissus Antarctica

Coprosma hirtella – Rough Coprosma

Corymbia maculata – Spotted Gum

Corymbia henryi

Correa glabra – Rock correa

Curcuma australasica – Cape York Lily

Cyathea australis – Rough Tree-fern

Derwentia derwentiana – Derwent Speedwell

Dianella brevicaulis – Small-flower Flax-lily

Dianella callicarpa – Swamp Flax-lily

Dianalle caerulea – Paroo Lily

Dianella longifolia – Pale Flax-lily

Dianella revoluta – Black-anther Flax-lily

Dianella tarda    – Late-flower Flax-lily

Dianella tasmanica – Tasman Flax-lily

Dichondra repens – Kidney-weed

Doryanthus excels – Giant Spear Lily

Doryanthus palmeri – Spear Lily

Eremophila deserti – Waterbush

Eremophila saligna – White Emu-bush

Eremophila santalina  – Sandalwood Emu-bush

Ficus – all

Ficus macrophylla – Moreton Bay Fig

Ficus rubiginosa – Rusty Fig

Flindersia xanthoxyla

Frankenia pauciflora – Southern Sea-heath

Grevillea nudiflora – Leafless-flowered Grevillea

Hymenosporum flavum – Native Frangipani

Jacksonia chappilliae

Jacksonia scoparia

Lagunaria patersoni – Lord Howe Island Hibiscus

Lasiopetalum macrophyllum – Shrubby Velvet-bush

Lasiopetalum schulzenii  – Drooping Velvet-bush

Micromelum minutum

Myoporum acuminatum – Boobialla

Myoporum bateae  – Pink Boobialla

Myoporum montanum – Waterbush

Myoporum petiolatum – Sticky Boobialla

Myoporum platycarpum       – Sugarwood

Myoporum velutinum  – Woolly Boobialla

Pandorea jasminoides – Native Jasminum

Pittosporum angustifolium   – Weeping Pittosporum

Pittosporum bicolor    – Banyalla

Pittosporum phylliraeoides   – Butterbush

Pittosporum revolutum   – Rough-fruit Pittosporum

Scleranthus biflorus    – Twin-flower Knawel

Senecio odoratus       – Scented Groundsel

Senecio pinnatifolius   – Variable Groundsel

Solanum aviculare   – Kangaroo Apple

Solanum esuriale  – Quena

Solanum laciniatum  – Large Kangaroo Apple

Solanum simile  – Oondoroo

Viola banksii  – Ivy-leaf Violet

Viola hederacea – Ivy-leaf Violet

Further Comments from Readers:

“Hi reader, it seems you use The Bible of Botany a lot. That’s great as we have great pleasure in bringing it to you! It’s a little awkward for us to ask, but our first aim is to purchase land approximately 1,600 hectares to link several parcels of N.P. into one at The Pinnacles NSW Australia, but we need your help. We’re not salespeople. We’re amateur botanists who have dedicated over 30 years to saving the environment in a practical way. We depend on donations to reach our goal. If you donate just $5, the price of your coffee this Sunday, We can help to keep the planet alive in a real way and continue to bring you regular updates and features on Australian plants all in one Botanical Bible. Any support is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

”In the spirit of reconciliation we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.

 

07.06.2023 Planning the Garden.

Planning the garden – “Every journey must start with a single step.” Mao Zi Dong. This pleasurable journey must commence with a single step the plan. If the foundation is good and strong then the rest will fit perfectly into place and be extremely gratifying to experience nature’s final display. Most gardens do not plan and just add on with impulse buying and its Higilty piggily is never really appreciated as plants and materials do not give an invitation to draw you in.

The uncompleted garden beds here are enticing you to venture forward adding a mystic of which path shall I take first?

We were confronted with shallow sand over a sandstone rock shelf coupled with many fallen trees from previous loggers. (30 years before) Take advantage of what you have. The taller healthier trees; mainly Eucalyptus, were kept while the smaller weaker trees removed and mulched, grass trees were highlighted, a small compact Lomandra filiformis subsp. flavior was transplanted, Rocks were brought in to emphasise what we already had, fallen logs were included to add a rustic look and Fire retardant plants around the house were given priority.

Below is a transformation from a bush garden with a winding path utilizing rocks as the demarcation. Next adding paving bricks and finally rock edging as to highlight the path and garden beds. The smaller plants are still yet to be planted for colour and texture.

One of the many bush tracks – We utilized wallaby tracks as they were already established pathways through the block.

Rock edging placed along the bush track define the path and garden beds better

Paving bricks make for better definition but still do not have that wow factor that this small tropical area craves for!

Adding the WOW factor – Here it gives the impression of a lengthy, relaxing stroll.

Paving bricks with rock edging already enhance the path prior to the final planting out with natives

Rock edging placed along the bush track define the path and garden beds better, even highlighting old logs

Different aspects of the path give impressions of length or a maze of gardens beyond. Planning is essential in achieving your desired affect.

Below a before and after photo of where rocks are used; in a little walked area, instead of boring concrete. It will be planted formally with Melaleuca viminalis little John to break the expanse and to soften the scene.

13.06.2023 Acronychia laevis added photos of fruit. Removed three photos from Acronychia oblongifolia as incorrectly named and replaced correctly in Acronychia laevis.

 

02.06.2023 Casuarinaceae

Late autumn through to early spring in Australia sees one of my favourite trees starting to bloom. They are not large blooms nor are the individual blooms spectacular as far as flowers go, however to me they are special and reflect more than most. Whereas other countries have their yellows and reds in Autumn Allocasuarina and Casuarina bring an autumn reddish-brown to the garden especially when viewed from a distance.

Just the name Casuarina (cas u ree na) or Allocasuarina (al lo casu ree na) have a beautiful sound. We almost named one of our daughters Casuarina. To stand below a group of well grown trees or a large stand in their natural habitat and listen to the breeze whispering through their needle like stems is something that holds you spell bound for ages. Mesmerised by the sheer quietness and solitude they reign a tranquillity that is very difficult to surpass anywhere else in nature.

While the trees superciliously resemble pine trees, Gymnosperms they are in fact flowering plants, Angiosperms. They usually produce both male and female flowers on the same tree being monecious or at times on separate trees dioecious.

The male flowers are tiny inconspicuous spikes borne at the apexes of the green or blue-green articles. The female flowers are small brownish or reddish heads on the swollen ends of greyish-brown twigs usually along the previous season’s growth. Trees often take on an autumn reddish-brown tone due to the masses of male flowers appear.

Above are the female flowers on Allocasuarina grampiana and below the male flowers on Allocasuarina nana.

The Casuarinaceae family play an important role in our environments despite usually being the first tree people remove from their properties. Well grown trees in the garden look attractive and assist the gardener by adding nitrogen to the soil. Experiments in India; using Casuarina equisetifolia and calculating the atmospheric nitrogen deposited as nitrogen in the soil similar to legumes returned some very good results. The trees have a symbiotic relationship with a soil bacteria known as Frankia. It is a soil bacterium in the actinobacteria group. The roots of the Casuarina equisetifolia produced root nodules; Similar to all species in the genre, where the bacteria fix atmospheric nitrogen, which is an essential nutrient for all plant metabolic activities. These stocks were transplanted and monitored for their growth and survival for 1 year on nutrient-deficient farm land. The experiments returned 3 times higher growth and biomass than the uninoculated control trees. The results showed that plants inoculated with the bacteria significantly improved growth in height (8.8 metre compared to 1 meter), stem girth (9.6 cm) and tissue nitrogen content (3.3 mg more nitrogen to the 1g) than uninoculated controls. The soil nutrient status was also improved due to inoculation of Frankia. As the trees grow more articles are shed increasing the soil humus levels.

Casuarina equisetifolia growing in tidal zone on the foreshore in pure sand near North Haven.

Casuarina glauca is another tough tree that will stand saline conditions. Here it is growing at Diamond Head.

There is also a new prostrate form that looks outstanding in medium to large rockeries even away from the coast.

Here at the Canberra Botanic Gardens it thrives away from the coast and where temperatures often reach below zero, and it will still increase the nitrogen levels and fertility of the soil.

Another great advantage of growing Allocasuarina and Casuarina is that they are great plants for suppressing other plant growth especially weeds. Allelopathy is a biological phenomenon where one plant inhibits the growth of another, through the release of allele chemicals. Certain plants can greatly affect the growth of other plants either in a good or bad way by leaching, decomposition, etc. In essence, plant allelopathy is used as a means of survival in nature, reducing competition from plants nearby. In the garden they produce their own mulch with a softening look and deadens or absorbs surrounding sound adding to a more peaceful area in the garden.

Above, at Seven Hills the effects of allelopathy can be seen beneath Allocasuarina littoralis. Plants either side, and to the rear are not directly affected but still have the advantage of the increased soil fertility improvement. Even a single tree will have a cleared area around its base. the above scene could be complimented with birds nest ferns Asplenium australe, elephant ears Allocasia brisbaniensis and various Cordylines in the back ground to give a tropical look or paper daisies like Xerochrysum bracteatum, Scaevola aemula (blue flower) Scaevola calendulacea (blue flower) or Scaevola calendulacea (white flower) to give a semi arid look or an English style garden. Another interesting fact is; Allocasuarina littoralis, is the only tree that is found growing naturally from the tip of Cape York Peninsular in far north eastern Queensland south to the tip of Wilson’s Promontory in southern Victoria.

Below is Allocasuarina torulosa with Pyrossia confluens well established on the trunk in a garden situation.

Most Allocasuarina and Casuarina species attract various species of black cockatoos to feast on the seeds. Our trees play host on an annual basis as seen below with this red tail black cockatoo, Calyptorhynchus lathami.

Happy Gardening.

07.05.2023 Proteaceae

At this time of the year and into Winter one family of plants that grab your attention is the Proteaceae family. The start of the cooler months are herald in, in my garden with Banksia oblongifolia, Banksia robur and Banksia serrata.

The Proteaceae family of plants is an incredibly diverse family of plants, which are predominantly found in the Southern Hemisphere.

It is predominantly found in the southern hemisphere in southern Africa and Australia. Native Proteaceae include Banksias, Grevilleas, Hakeas, as well as the Waratah Telopea and the edible Australian nut the Macadamia.

There are around 80 genera in the family comprising of more than 1500 species worldwide. In Australia, there are 45 genera and 800 species found in all states. 

A common misconception is that several South African plants (Protea, Leucadendron, Leucospermum) are  Australian natives. These are often included by some florists in ‘native’ flower arrangements. Many of the Banksias make ideal cut flowers and the seed pods are increasingly finding themselves used in art work.

The Protea Family comprises a diverse group of shrubs or trees and many like the Grevilleas have colourful clusters of flowers that have drwan many gardeners to them to brighten up their gardens.  Most members of the family have specialised clusters of fine roots known as proteoid roots.  These are an adaptation for growing in phosphorus-deficient soils. Fertilisers need to be low phosphorous so it is best to use only native fertilisers.

All Proteaceae are bird attractive when in flower, attracting honeyeaters, native bees and small insectivorous birds to the garden.

    Banksia oblongifolia             Banksia robur             Banksia serrata

Banksia oblongifolia is a very hardy and slow growing shrub for sandy soils, particularly along the coast. It flowers well in cultivation with the flowers attracting many small nectar eating birds.

It is ideal for planting under established Eucalyptus trees. Pruning can keep it in better shape, or it is amenable to bonsai look in the garden.

Banksia robur or the swamp banksia, is a dramatic looking banksia with large serrated leaves which add to the attraction. The new growth is like velvet with soft, brown hairs, which is an attractive feature. While it prefers a damp to wet area on sandy soils, it is very adaptable to a wide range of conditions and soils.

It needs full sun for best flowering, but will grow in dappled light. The flowers at first are a deep green glistening blue, and turn yellow green and eventually yellow as the flower ages. It is hardy to frosts once established. It is a fast growing shrub.

Banksia serrata is a charismatic medium sized tree with leathery serrated leaves and creamy yellow in late summer to late autumn. The flowers are followed by interesting pods that make interesting floral arrangements or art work. The gnarled trunk has a lepidote bark. Even good specimens grow slowly up to 15 metres. It prefers sandy well drained soils especially along the coast, where it withstands salt laden winds. Black cockatoos like feeding on the developing cones.

            Grevillea aurea                      Grevillea lavandulacea

Grevillea aurea is a very hardy and fast growing large shrub for sandy soils, particularly in tropical and sub tropical areas. The large flowers develop well in cultivation with the flowers attracting many small nectar eating birds.

It is ideal for planting in full sun or light dappled shade. Pruning can keep it in better shape.                    

Grevillea lavandulacea is a small spreading shrub for rockeries slopes or a general native garden. It grows to from 200mm and spreads to less than a meter. It is also suitable for large pots and containers.

Though the leaves are small, the silvery or grey-green highlights the clusters of comparatively large deep pink and white flowers from early winter to early spring.

Once established it is a hardy tolerating both frosts and drought.

     Hakea florulenta                          

Hakea laurina – https://nativeplantproject.com.au/hedging-your-bets/

Hakea florulenta has clusters of creamy white, pleasantly perfumed flowers in midwinter to spring, followed by 25mm woody capsules. It is an understory shrub usually on sandy soils with periodic wet periods.

The wallum Hakea is hardy and adaptable and can grow in full sun or dappled sunlight. The flowers are attractive to native bees and small honeyeaters.

Hakea laurina is a hardy dense foliage medium to large shrub suitable for hedges or native gardens in temperate Australia. It has masses of brilliant globular red and cream flowers in late autumn to late winter. The flowers attract many small to medium honeyeaters and native nectar seeking insects including native bees. It prefers full sun to ensure good flowering from late summer and throughout autumn and winter.

            Macadamia integrifolia                 Macadamia tetraphylla                 

Macadamia integrifolia is an attractive very bushy tree with stiff slightly serrated leaves. The white pendulous flowers are slightly perfumed and are attractive birds, native bees and butterflies especially the common Pencilled-blue, Candalides absimilis. It is an excellent shade tree. The edible nuts mature from May to July.

Macadamia tetraphylla grows from 15 to 20 meters tall with deep green, toothed leaves. The sprays of purplish to pink flowers appear from late winter to spring. They are attractive to birds, native bees and butterflies. The edible nuts mature in March to July.

          Petrophile canescens                    Petrophile pulchella

Petrophile canescens is a beautiful erect shrub with beautiful pinnately-divided blue-green leaves. The oval, spiral white to pale cream-coloured flower heads are densely covered in long, white canescent hairs.

Petrophile pulchella is a beautiful erect shrub with beautiful pinnately-divided blue-green leaves. The oval, spiral white to pale cream-coloured flower heads are sparsely covered in delicate, short, white appressed hairs.

                               

Stenocarpus sinuatus

Stenocarpus sinuatus or the firewheel tree takes its name from the colour and wheel shape of the flowers. It is one of Australia’s most spectacular trees that has been successfully grown as a garden subject and street tree.  In warm rainforests, the trees grow to 36 meters but it is usually smaller in cultivation, where it is often grown in the open. The deep, glossy green leaves may be entire or lobed. The conspicuous deep red to orange-red flower clusters are seen in autumn to early winter.

Despite its sub-tropical to tropical origin, it is adaptable to a range of climates and will even succeed in semi-arid areas if additional water is available. It prefers fairly rich, loamy soils but is tolerant of most well drained soils. It prefers full sun to light dappled shade where it will remain smaller and produce more abundant flowers.

Xylomelum pyriforme

Xylomelum pyriforme grows as a large shrub or small tree to five meters in height. It is rarely seen in cultivation due to the scarcity of seed, seedlings grow readily but commonly quickly succumb to damping off and the fact that it takes around 20 years before it flowers. It is one or the Proteaceae that heralds the spring flowering form August to September. The new growth is a brilliant, glossy reddish-brown. Early European settlers of Australia used the tree’s wood to make gun stocks.

Renamed and moved all of the Baumea genus with photos and articles and replaced with its new genus Machaerina.

01.05.2023 – Two photos of Banksia serrata.

30.04.2023 – Added article and eight photos of Senecio macranthus.

30.04.2023 – Added three photos of Senecio linearifolius.

29.04.2023 – Added two photos deleted one photo of Sigesbeckia orientalis.

29.04.2023 – Added two photos deleted one photo of Conospermum taxifolium.

29.04.2023 – Added photos of Jacksonia stackhousei.

29.04.2023 – Added four photos of Comesperma defoliatum.

29.04.2023 – Added two photos of Goodenia bellidifolia.

29.04.2023 – Added two photos of Gahnia sieberiana

28.04.2023 – added four photos and removed two photos of Daviesia umbellulatal.

19.04.2023 – Added 4 photos of Utricularia dichotoma subsp. aquilonia

19.04.2023 – Added 2 photos of Utricularia lateriflora

19.04.2023 – With winter fast approaching, temperatures dropping, chilly nights abound one group of plants that usually flower very under these conditions are the Acacias. Wattles are generally easy to propagate, easy to grow and add valuable nitrogen to the soil. Most the smaller species are short lived but give great displays of yellows in late autumn through to early Spring.

For more detail refer to the section “Plant Descriptions A” to find an Acacia species that suits your requirements. There are a lot more to be seen there as well. Try seeking out your local species for ease of growth and guaranteed flowering.

Below is a brief description of just 16 of the more than 700 species native to Australia.

Acacia alata is an unusual shrub to 2 m high by 1 m across. Phyllodes are almost reduced to cladodes, giving the appearance of winged stems. Each phyllode is extended into a small fine spine. It is worthwhile growing for its foliage. Two flower forms are noted, one cream, the other golden yellow. Extended flowering period. It is a beauty from Western Australia.

Cultivation: Some shade and good drainage is appreciated. The golden flowered form is preferred.

Acacia baileyana is a small tree or large shrub up to 10 meters tall by 6 m across. Leaves are grey, bipinnate and leaflets are linear. Profuse, gold, ball-shaped flowers occur in late winter. Pods are bluish when young.Two other foliage forms are in cultivation. One has purplish leaves and has been known as Acacia baileyana var. purpurea, the other has yellowish tips.

Distribution: south eastern NSW, but has naturalized in other areas.

Cultivation: A very hardy plant in a sunny situation. Suited to most soils. Better in colder areas down to minus 8 degrees. Good fast-growing screen plant. Purple foliage form is useful foliage contrast. It is highly recommended for its foliage and bright yellow ball flowers from June to early September. It makes an ideal quick growing screen.

Acacia binervata is amedium-sized, dense tree to 15 metres tall with 120mm phyllodes usually with two very distinct veins. Bears pale cream ball-shaped flowers in early spring.

Distribution: Qld. and NSW.

Cultivation: A hardy plant in most well-watered situations. Needs full sun or part shade. Dense shade tree. Used as a fast-growing shelter tree in revegetated rainforest Cream ball flowers are seen from August to mid-November. It makes an ideal quick growing tall screen and wildlife corridor.

Acacia complanata is a well rounded shrub to 3 meters by 2 to 3 meters in diameter. The stems are flattened and slightly reddish. Phyllodes elliptical to 100mm, light green. It is an opportunistic flower, flowering whenever good rains occur between late November and Early May. The deep yellow balls may be seen in several flushes in a season.

Distribution: South east Queensland to south eastern NSW.

Cultivation: Prefers sandy soil in full sun or part shade. Useful low screen. Suitable for planting in warm temperate to tropical areas with temperatures from 3 degrees to 40 degrees.

Acacia concurrens is a small tree or large bushy shrub which may reach 10 meters tall, but usually much smaller. The phyllodes are obliquely obovate with the lower margin more or less straight. They are up to 160mm in length. The pencil shaped flowers are mid yellow to bright yellow and borne in pairs from the upper leaf axils. They appear from July to early September.

Distribution: Southeast Queensland to northern New South Wales.Cultivation: A hardy and fast-growing plant for coastal districts. May be used as a screen or shelter for younger plants. Most well drained soils full sun. Is very suitable for a hedge row.

Acacia filicifolia is a small tree or medium shrub up to 6 meters tall by 6 m across. Leaves are grey-green, bipinnate and leaflets are linear. Profuse, deep gold, ball-shaped flowers occur in late winter. The purplish pods add an addition contrast colour after the yellow blooms in the garden.

Distribution: It is found in the high country along the Great Dividing Range from Southern Queensland to southern NSW.Cultivation: A very hardy plant in a sunny situation. Suited to most soils. Better in colder areas down to minus 8 degrees. Good fast-growing spectacular flowerer. It is highly recommended for its foliage and bright yellow ball flowers from late June to early September. It would make an ideal quick growing screen.

Acacia floribunda: Tall, bushy shrub or small tree to 6 meters. The linear to narrow elliptical phyllodes measure to 10omm in length. Bears masses of cream pencil like flowers to 50mm long from early June to early September.

Distribution: Eastern NSW, Qld., Vic.

Cultivation: Grows in most well drained soils. Good, fast-growing screen plant. It is most suitable for beach front situations where adequate moisture is available. A dwarf form which only reaches about 1 m high is now available commercially. It forms a dense rounded shrub. Frost hardy to minus 4 degrees. It is suitable for a low hedge or screen plant and can be regularly, lightly pruned to maintain a smaller plant, which will respond accordingly with a profusion of flowers.

Acacia granitica is a well rounded shrub to 3 meters by 2 to 3 meters in diameter. The stems bluisish-green. The pale green, linear phyllodes measure 100mm to 250mm in length. It is a prolific flowerer, from June to early September.

Distribution: South east Queensland to south eastern NSW.

Cultivation: Prefers sandy sandstone or granite based soils in full sun or part shade. Suitable for planting in warm temperate to tropical areas with temperatures from 3 degrees to 40 degrees.

Acacia hubbardiana is a small, stiff, woody shrub with arching stems to 1 to 2 meters in height by up to 2 meter in diameter.cm. The deep green triangular phyllodes have a sharp apex. The prolific cream ball flowers appear from July to early September.

Distribution: Coastal southern Queensland.

Cultivation: Will accept a poorly drained situation in sun or par shade. Suitable for a medium rockeries and seaside gardens on sand. It has attractive foliage that highlights the flowers.

Acacia leiocalyxis a very variable, which can grow as a medium shrub to a small tree from 3 meters up to 6 meters tall by 4 m in diameter. The deep green, elliptic to narrowly elliptic, straight to falcate Phyllodes measure 70mm to 180mm in length. The profusion of cream to mid yellow, rod shaped flowers are erratic and appear from late April to early September.

Distribution: From Mackay in central Queensland to near Sydney in NSW.

Cultivation: A very hardy plant in a sunny situation. Suited to most soils. It is a good fast-growing screen plant that deserves greater attention especially on rural properties.

Acacia linifolia grows as a medium shrub to a small tree from 1.5 meters up to 4 meters tall. The deep green, linear, straight Phyllodes measure 20mm to 50mm in length. The profusion of cream to mid yellow, ball shaped flowers are erratic and have appeared in every month of the year.

Distribution: Central coastal NSW.

Cultivation: A very hardy plant in a sunny situation. Suited to most soils. It is a good fast-growing screen plant that deserves greater attention especially on rural properties.

Acacia macradenia is a large, open shrub with a strong weeping habit, to 6 meters by 6 meters. The lanceolate phyllodes measure up to 110mm in length. The yellow ball flowers appear from late July to early September.

Common name alludes to unusual zigzag habit of branches which change direction between leaf nodes.

Distribution: Arid zones of central Queensland.

Cultivation: An attractive Acacia for medium to large gardens in frost free situations. Grows well in dry situations.

Acacia paradoxa is a spreading, thorny shrub, which grows 1.5 meters to 3 meters tall by 2 meters to 4 meters in diameter. The elliptical phyllodes measure up to 30mm in length. The stems are armed with rigid, pungent spines. The bright yellow ball flowers appear from July to early November.

Distribution: WA, Qld., NSW, Vic., SA and Tasmania where it was introduced into cultivation and naturalized.

Cultivation: Is a truely magnificent small Acacia that grows well in a sunny, well drained position in the garden. It would make an excellent hedge plant. It would do well in arid or seaside gardens especially where salt sprays occur.

Acacia podalyriifolia is a tall shrub with a small small tree stature growing to to 8 meters tall by 5 meters in diameter. The silver-grey phyllodes are elliptical, to 40mm in length with a texture similar to felt. The deep yellow ball flowers appear in late July to early September and contrast beautifully with the foliage.

Distribution: South east Qld.

Cultivation: A hardy plant in most well drained, sunny situations and is cold and frost tolerant to minus 6 degrees.

Acacia pycantha, is Australia’s national floral emblem and our national colours are the colour of this medium shrub to small tree that will grow to 10 meters. The bright green sickle-shaped phyllodes measure up to 150mm in length. Large golden ball flowers appear from July to October

Distribution: New South Wales, Victoria and South Australia.

Cultivation: This very showy wattle deserves a place in any medium to large garden. It needs a well-drained, sunny position with even moisture. It is frost hardy to temperatures around minus 7 degrees.

Photo from https://www.thetutuguru.com.au/shop/acacia-golden-wattle/

Acacia quadrilateralis is a beautiful spreading shrub to 1 meters tall by 3 meters in diameter. The silvery-grey terete to quadrangular phyllodes measure up to 60mm in length. The golden ball-shaped flowers appear from July to September.

Distribution: Bundaberg in southern Qld. to southern NSW.

Cultivation: It needs a well-drained, sunny situation to perform at its best. Its foliage and flowers make it an ideal small Acacia in any garden feature. Frost tolerant to temperatures down to minus 4 degrees and up to 40 degrees.

17.04.2023 added photos for Goodenia ovata.

Australian Plants Glossary is now complete with 20,000 plant names translated from Latin and Ancient Greek into Aussie lingo.

24.03.2023 Following a trip to the North Coast Botanic gardens in Coffs Harbour the following photos have been added to Plant descriptions. – Aotus ericoides, stem, leaves & fruit, Astrotricha longifolia changed upper leafl added stem. Erythrina numerosa trunk & leaves, Isotoma auxillaris all, Pultenaea maritima fruit, Sarcotoechia serrata trunk and leaves,

20.03.2023 Lepyrodia scariosa

20/21.03.2023 There is some doubt that the photos are of Utricularia ulignosa and could be yet another newly discovered species in the Clarence Valley. Utricularia ulignosa flowers are pale blue or purplish. there are a number of other fine points to show differences.

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In the spirit of reconciliation we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.