Jacksonia chappilliae

Classification:

Unranked: Eudicots

Unranked Rosids

Order: Fabales

Family: Fabaceae

Subfamily: Fabiodeae

Genus: Is named in honour of Jackson but which Jackson cannot be substantiated. May be George Jackson; 1780-1811, who was a Scottish botanist.

Specie: Is named in honour of Chapman but which Chapman cannot be substantiated. It may be named in honour of Jennifer Anne Chappill; 1959-2006, who was an Australian botanist who studied the Jacksonia genus.

Sub species:

Common Name:

Distribution:

Jacksonia chappilliae is found in an area bounded by Koreelah Peak to White Swamp, Woodenbong Plain and Urbenville in far south eastern Queensland and far north eastern New South Wales. It is mainly found on the Great Dividing Range.

https://avh.ala.org.au/occurrences/search?taxa=Jacksonia+chappilliae#tab_mapView

Habitat Aspect Climate:

Jacksonia chappilliae prefers full sun to light dappled shade. It grows on mountain tops and edges mountain heaths. The altitude ranges from 560 meters ASL to 700 meters ASL.

The temperatures range from minus 3 degree in August to 38 degrees in January.

The rainfalls range from lows of 480mm to an average of 1700mm annually.

Soil Requirements:

Jacksonia chappilliae prefers to grow on better quality light clays to medium clays. The soils are usually derived from brown basalts. The soils pH ranges from 5.5pH to 6pH are preferred. It does not tolerate water logged soils. Non saline soils to moderately saline soils are tolerated.

Height & Spread:

Wild Plants: 0.5m to 2m by 0.5m to 3m.

Characteristics:

Jacksonia chappilliae’s has a deeply furrowed, grey-brown trunk. The dull blue-green or grey-green branches and branchlets are erect and are obtusely angled or winged. The branchlets are glabrous to sparsely covered in minute off white to pale puberulent hairs.

Jacksonia chappilliae’s obovate leaves are usually only found on juvenile plants and seedlings and are reduced to minute scales on mature plants. Older plants photosynthesize through the blue-green branchlets. The margins are entire.

The inflorescences of Jacksonia chappilliae are short racemes from the upper axils. The pale yellowish-green tinged pink to red, pinkish–yellow or reddish-yellow rachises and pedicels are covered in white pulverulent hairs. The pedicels measure 2mm to 4mm in length. The flowers number 1 to 5 per rachis. The calyxes divide into 5 pale yellowish-green tinged pink to red, pinkish–yellow or reddish-yellow lanceolate lobes which are covered in short white puberulent hairs. The lobes measure 3mm to 6mm in length. The yellow corollas measure 2.5mm to 5mm in length. The yellow orbicular standards have a small red halo near the base and are deeply emarginate at the apex. The standards measure 6mm to 10mm in height by 6mm to 11mm in width. The yellow, spathulate to oblong-spathulate wings measure 5mm to 7mm in length by 3mm to 4mm in height. The keel is exposed on the lower section especially after anthesis and measures 6mm to 7.5mm in length by 3mm to 4mm in height.

The 5 dull yellow filiform filaments measure 5mm to 6mm in length while the dorsifixed, oblong anthers measure 1mm to 1.2mm in length. The lime-green style is erect, gently curves and measures 2mm to 4mm in length. The ovary and base of the style are covered in fine soft, white velutinous hairs.

Jacksonia chappilliae’s fruits are elliptical to oblong pods. The pods are covered in fine, soft, white velutinous to tomentose hairs. The style is persistent on the ripe pods while the green pods turn deep grey almost black when ripe. The pods measure 4mm to 7.5mm in length by 3mm to 6mm in diameter. The stipe measures 0.8mm to 1.2mm in length. The oval to oblong brown seed measures 1.5mm to 2.5mm in diameter.

Wildlife:

Jacksonia chappilliae’s seeds are frequently eaten by unknown larvae prior to ripening. The tree trunks are often attacked by borers especially if they have been damaged. A number of click beetles have been observed on the trees especially shortly after new growth has flushed. Several different species of native bees and flies attend the flowers but only in small numbers. The pencilled blue butterfly Candalides cyprotus, larvae live on the plant.

Cultivation:

Jacksonia chappilliae is a magnificent small tree or large shrub that is frequently overlooked by gardeners because of its spindly appearance in pots. It is suitable for small, medium and large sunny gardens close to the coast, semi-arid, temperate and sub-tropical areas, especially where the soils are sandy loams to medium clays which experience seasonal drainage problems. As garden subjects it grows to 1.5 meters to 2 meters in height by 1 meter to 2 meters in width when grown in the open. It is fast growing and is cold tolerant to temperatures as low as minus 4 degrees once established.

Many reports say they cannot be pruned however if it reacts similarly to Jacksonia scoparia we have found the opposite, that pruning up to a third of the present season’s growth has no adverse effects on the plants; instead increases bushiness and promotes terminal growth and flowering is far more superior the following season. Plants that had been slashed on the farm came away with far more vigour than plants that were nearby. It responds very well to additional native fertilizers mulch and even soil moisture.

It is most suitable for use in rockeries, along drive ways or adjacent to natural bush gardens. Mass plantings of 5 or more plants even in small areas; really do the plants justification, especially when they are in flower and trimmed to different heights.

It is best used adjacent to small areas of bush close to paths or the house so their mass of yellow flowers can be viewed. Plants can be placed near a bend in the garden or along a long driveway with other smaller broad green leaf shrubs. They will gain a lot of attention and highlight the other broader green leaf shrubs. Mass plant them (4 to 8) with plants with deep green broader simple leaves in the foreground and with prostrate plants with broad deep green leaves. If fine leaf plants are used they will be lost in a miniature jungle that will look very untidy and uninteresting. Ensure that the whole plant or at least most of it is on display from most sections of the garden as the flowers are a real bonus.

When mass planting Jacksonia chappilliae try leaving some of the plants as trees and trim the others so that they grow into shrubs of different heights to give depth and height to the area. I would not use other plants to the rear unless they were mature towering trees. Jacksonia scoparia look magnificent when in flower and used as a central feature with pink or red flowering plants as contrasts plants surrounding them.

Propagation:

Seeds: Jacksonia chappilliae require treatment before sowing. Pre-treat by placing the seeds into a glass of hot water. Allow the water to cool and leave to soak for 4 to 8 hours. Seeds that have not swollen repeat the exercise.

Jacksonia scoparia seeds can be sown directly into a seed raising mix. Sow thinly and cover them with 5mm to 6mm of fine weed free mulch and keep moist. Place the tray in a warm sunny position. Harden plants off by placing them in full sun for a week before transplanting. This should be started when the seedlings are just 10mm tall. When the seedlings are 20mm to 25mm tall, prick them out and plant them into 50mm native tubes using a good organic mix. Be very careful at this stage as the plants are very susceptible to damping off as they resent root disturbance. I usually did this before watering the plants so the mix was semi dry.

Once the seedlings reach 100mm to 150mm in height they can be planted out into their permanent position.

Fertilize using seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water on an alternate basis. Fertilize every two months until the plants are established then twice annually in early September or March to maintain health, vitality and better flowering.

Further Comments from Readers:

All information is included in good faith and has been thoroughly researched prior to printing. The website or the author does not warrant or guarantee the accuracy of any information on these pages, nor does the website or the author accept any responsibility for any loss arising from the use of the information found within. The views and opinions are strictly those of the author or those members who chose to actively participate in the contents herein.

“Hi reader, it seems you use The Bible of Botany a lot. That’s great as we have great pleasure in bringing it to you! It’s a little awkward for us to ask, but our first aim is to purchase land approximately 1,600 hectares to link several parcels of N.P. into one at The Pinnacles NSW Australia, but we need your help. We’re not salespeople. We’re amateur botanists who have dedicated over 30 years to saving the environment in a practical way. We depend on donations to reach our goal. If you donate just $5, the price of your coffee this Sunday, We can help to keep the planet alive in a real way and continue to bring you regular updates and features on Australian plants all in one Botanical Bible. Any support is greatly appreciated. Thank you.”

In the spirit of reconciliation we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.

PHOT1310.JPG

Chrysolopus spectabilis is often found on dead branches and fallen plants.

Jacksonia scoparia

Classification:

Unranked: Eudicots

Unranked Rosids

Order: Fabales

Family: Fabaceae

Subfamily: Fabiodeae

Genus: Is named in honour of Jackson but which Jackson cannot be substantiated. May be George Jackson; 1780-1811, who was a Scottish botanist.

Specie: From Scoparia, which is Latin for to be like a broom. It refers to smaller branches and twigs, which are similar looking to a broom or could be used as a broom.

Sub species:

Common Name: Native Broom or Dogwood.

Distribution:

Jacksonia scoparia is found south from Clearview in central coastal Queensland to Bega in south eastern New South Wales. There is a disjunct population near Cape Melville in far north Queensland. It is found on the Western Slopes, on and east of the Great Dividing Range to the coast.

https://avh.ala.org.au/occurrences/search?taxa=Jacksonia+scoparia#tab_mapView

Habitat Aspect Climate:

Jacksonia scoparia prefers full sun to light dappled shade. It grows on hills, mountain sides, headland heaths or alluvial plains in open Eucalyptus forests, open Eucalyptus woodlands woodland heaths tall scrubby heaths, mallee plains, Brigalow scrubs behind the frontal dunes or along estuarial creeks, stream or rivers. The altitude ranges from 1 meter ASL to 1450 meters ASL.

The temperatures range from minus 4 degree in August to 40 degrees in January.

The rainfalls range from lows of 480mm to an average of 1700mm annually.

Soil Requirements:

Jacksonia scoparia prefers to grow on low nutrient light clays to medium clays or at times heavy clays, podsolic soils or light silts to heavy silts. The soils are usually derived from shale, sandstones, granites, metamorphic rocks, mudstones, brown basalts, black basalts alluvial deposits or accumulated beach sands. Poorly drained podsolic soils are a common feature of the terrain and soil. The soils pH ranges from 4.5pH to 6pH are preferred. It tolerates water logged soils. Non saline soils to moderately saline soils are tolerated as are salt laden winds.

Height & Spread:

Wild Plants: 4m to 12m by 1.5m to 3.5m.

Characteristics:

Jacksonia scoparia’s has a deeply furrowed, grey trunk which is often flanged at the base. The branchlets are erect becoming pendulous towards the ends. They are a dull blue-green or grey-green, strongly angled or winged especially as they approach the apexes. The young branchlets are sparsely covered in short grey puberulent hairs.

Jacksonia scoparia’s alternate oblong to obovate leaves are mainly to be found on juvenile plants and seedlings. Older plants photosynthesize from the blue-green branchlets where the leaves are reduced to large scales. They measure 5mm to 12mm in length by 2mm to 7mm. The base is rounded while the apex is mucronate. The concolourous laminas are grey-green or blue-green and are sparsely covered in pale grey puberulent hairs. The margins are entire. The mid vein is slightly prominent on the lower lamina and is not visible from above. The petiole measures 0.2mm to 0.5 mm in length.

The inflorescences of Jacksonia scoparia are short terminal racemes. The pale blue green rachis measure 10mm to 30mm in length while the pedicels measure 3mm to 5mm in length. The flowers number 1 to 9 per rachis. The calyxes divide into 5 pale yellowish-green tinged pink to red, pinkish–yellow or reddish-yellow lanceolate lobes which are covered in short white puberulent hairs. The lobes measure 3mm to 6mm in length. The yellow corollas measure 2.5mm to 5mm in length. The yellow orbicular standards have a small red halo near the base and are deeply emarginate at the apex. The standards measure 8mm to 14mm in height by 10mm to 16mm in width. The yellow, spathulate to oblong-spathulate wings measure 7mm to 9mm in length by 5mm to 6mm in height. The keel is exposed on the lower section especially after anthesis and measures 6mm to 7.5mm in length by 5mm to 6.5mm in height.

The 5 dull yellow filiform filaments measure 5mm to 6mm in length while the dorsifixed, oblong anthers measure 1mm to 1.2mm in length. The lime-green style is erect, gently curves and measures 2mm to 4mm in length. The ovary and base of the style are covered in fine soft, white velutinous hairs.

Jacksonia scoparia’s fruit is an oblong-elliptical pod. The pod is covered in grey hirtellous hairs. The styles are persistent on the ripe fruits. The green pods turn deep grey almost black on ripening. The pods measure 6mm to 12mm in length by 3mm to 6mm in diameter. The oval to oblong brown seed measures 2mm to 3mm in diameter.

Wildlife:

Seeds are frequently eaten by unknown larvae prior to ripening. The tree trunks are often attacked by borers especially if they have been damaged. A number of click beetles have been observed on the trees especially shortly after new growth has flushed. Several different species of native bees and flies attend the flowers but only in small numbers. The pencilled blue butterfly, Candalides cyprotus larvae live on the plant. The weevil Chrysolopus spectabilis is often seen on the plants.

Cultivation:

Jacksonia scoparia is a magnificent small tree or large shrub that is frequently overlooked by gardeners because of its spindly appearance in pots. It is suitable for small, medium and large sunny gardens close to the coast, semi-arid, temperate and sub-tropical areas, especially where the soils are sandy loams to medium clays which experience seasonal drainage problems. As garden subjects it grows to 3 meters to 4 meters in height by 3 meter to 3.5 meters in width when grown in the open. It is fast growing and is cold tolerant to temperatures as low as minus 4 degrees once established.

Many reports say they cannot be pruned however if it reacts similarly to Jacksonia scoparia we have found the opposite, that pruning up to a third of the present season’s growth has no adverse effects on the plants; instead increases bushiness and promotes terminal growth and flowering is far more superior the following season. Plants that had been slashed on the farm came away with far more vigour than plants that were nearby. It responds very well to additional native fertilizers mulch and even soil moisture.

It is most suitable for use in rockeries, along drive ways or adjacent to natural bush gardens. Mass plantings of 5 or more plants even in small areas; really do the plants justification, especially when they are in flower and trimmed to different heights.

It is best used adjacent to small areas of bush close to paths or the house so their mass of yellow flowers can be viewed. Plants can be placed near a bend in the garden or along a long driveway with other smaller broad green leaf shrubs. They will gain a lot of attention and highlight the other broader green leaf shrubs. Mass plant them (4 to 8) with plants with deep green broader simple leaves in the foreground and with prostrate plants with broad deep green leaves. If fine leaf plants are used they will be lost in a miniature jungle that will look very untidy and uninteresting. Ensure that the whole plant or at least most of it is on display from most sections of the garden as the flowers are a real bonus.

When mass planting Jacksonia scoparia try leaving some of the plants as trees and trim the others so that they grow into shrubs of different heights to give depth and height to the area. I would not use other plants to the rear unless they were mature towering trees. Jacksonia scoparia look magnificent when in flower and used as a central feature with pink or red flowering plants as contrasts plants surrounding them.

Propagation:

Seeds: Jacksonia scoparia require treatment before sowing. Pre-treat by placing the seeds into a glass of hot water. Allow the water to cool and leave to soak for 4 to 8 hours. Seeds that have not swollen repeat the exercise.

Jacksonia scoparia seeds can be sown directly into a seed raising mix. Sow thinly and cover them with 5mm to 6mm of fine weed free mulch and keep moist. Place the tray in a warm sunny position. Harden plants off by placing them in full sun for a week before transplanting. This should be started when the seedlings are just 10mm tall. When the seedlings are 20mm to 25mm tall, prick them out and plant them into 50mm native tubes using a good organic mix. Be very careful at this stage as the plants are very susceptible to damping off as they resent root disturbance. I usually did this before watering the plants so the mix was semi dry.

Once the seedlings reach 100mm to 150mm in height they can be planted out into their permanent position.

Fertilize using Seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water and apply the liquid on an alternate basis. Fertilize every 2 months until the plants are well established then on an annual basis in September or March to maintain good health, vigour and better flowering.

Further Comments from Readers:

All information is included in good faith and has been thoroughly researched prior to printing. The website or the author does not warrant or guarantee the accuracy of any information on these pages, nor does the website or the author accept any responsibility for any loss arising from the use of the information found within. The views and opinions are strictly those of the author or those members who chose to actively participate in the contents herein.

“Hi reader, it seems you use The Bible of Botany a lot. That’s great as we have great pleasure in bringing it to you! It’s a little awkward for us to ask, but our first aim is to purchase land approximately 1,600 hectares to link several parcels of N.P. into one at The Pinnacles NSW Australia, but we need your help. We’re not salespeople. We’re amateur botanists who have dedicated over 30 years to saving the environment in a practical way. We depend on donations to reach our goal. If you donate just $5, the price of your coffee this Sunday, We can help to keep the planet alive in a real way and continue to bring you regular updates and features on Australian plants all in one Botanical Bible. Any support is greatly appreciated. Thank you.”

In the spirit of reconciliation we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.

Jacksonia stackhousei

Classification:

Unranked: Eudicots

Unranked Rosids

Order: Fabales

Family: Fabaceae

Subfamily: Fabiodeae

Genus: Is named in honour of Jackson but which Jackson cannot be substantiated. May be George Jackson; 1780-1811, who was a Scottish botanist.

Specie: Is named in honour of Thomas Stackhouse; 1832?-1896, who was an Australian naval officer and botanist who formed the Linnean Society of NSW. He specialized in rare and endangered plants.

Sub species:

Common Name: Wallum Dogwood.

Distribution:

Jacksonia stackhousei is found south from the Byfield National Park central coastal Queensland to the Pillar Valley and Minnie Waters in north eastern coastal New South Wales. It is also found in Carnarvon Gorge, Rockland Spring west of the Great Dividing Range and North Sydney to the south.

https://avh.ala.org.au/occurrences/search?taxa=Jacksonia+stackhousei#tab_mapView

Habitat Aspect Climate:

Jacksonia stackhousei prefers full sun to light dappled shade. It mainly grows in coastal heaths behind the frontal dunes. The shrubs never form large colonies. The altitude usually ranges from 3 meters ASL to 20 meters ASL for coastal plants or 300 meters ASL to 400 meters ASL for the western plants.

The temperatures range from minus 2 degree in August to 39 degrees in January.

The rainfalls range from lows of 450mm to an average of 2000mm annually.

Soil Requirements:

Jacksonia stackhousei prefers to grow on white peaty sands to orange fatty sandy loams. The soils are usually derived from accumulated peaty beach or at times decomposed sandstone. The soils pH ranges from 4.5pH to 6.5pH. It tolerates water logged soils. Non saline soils to moderately saline soils are tolerated as are salt laden winds.

Height & Spread:

Wild Plants: 0.3m to 0.5m by 1m to 3m.

Characteristics:

Jacksonia stackhousei’s usually grows as a decumbent or rarely erect small shrub with terete branchlets that are longitudinally furrowed. The branchlets are glabrous to sparsely covered in minutely puberulent hairs.

Jacksonia stackhousei’s obovate leaves are usually only found on juvenile plants and seedlings and are reduced to minute scales on mature plants. Older plants photosynthesize through the blue-green branchlets. The margins are entire.

The inflorescences of Jacksonia stackhousei are born singularly or in pairs from the upper axils. The pale blue-green pedicels are covered in white puberulent hairs. The pedicels measure 0.8mm to 1.2mm in length. The flowers number 1 to 9 per rachis. The calyxes divide into 5 pale blue-green lanceolate lobes which are moderately covered in short white pubescent hairs. The upper pair remains united for half their length. The calyxes measure 3mm to 4mm in length while the lobes measure 6mm to 9mm in length. The yellow corollas measure 6mm to 9mm in length. The yellow orbicular standards have a small red halo near the base and are deeply emarginate at the apex. The standards measure 8mm to 12mm in height by 8mm to 12mm in width. The yellow, spathulate to oblong-spathulate wings measure 7mm to 9mm in length by 4mm to 6mm in height. The keel is exposed on the lower section especially after anthesis and measures 7mm to 9mm in length by 4mm to 6mm in height.

The 5 dull yellow filiform filaments measure 5mm to 6mm in length while the dorsifixed, oblong anthers measure 1mm to 1.2mm in length. The lime-green style is erect, gently curves and measures 2mm to 4mm in length. The ovary and base of the style are covered in fine soft, white velutinous hairs.

Jacksonia stackhousei’s fruits are ovoidal pods. The glabrous pods are green and turn deep grey almost black when ripe. The style is persistent on the ripe pods which are concealed between the calyx lobes. The pods measure 4mm to 5mm in length by 2.5mm to 4mm in width. The oval to oblong brown seed measures 1.5mm to 2.5mm in diameter.

Wildlife:

Jacksonia stackhousei’s seeds are frequently eaten by unknown larvae prior to ripening. The tree trunks are often attacked by borers especially if they have been damaged. A number of click beetles have been observed on the trees especially shortly after new growth has flushed. Several different species of native bees and flies attend the flowers but only in small numbers. The pencilled blue butterfly, Candalides cyprotus larvae live on the plant.

Cultivation:

Jacksonia stackhousei is a magnificent small decumbent shrub for the small to large rockery or bush garden that is frequently overlooked by gardeners because of their spindly appearance in pots. It is suitable for small, medium and large sunny gardens close to the coast, semi-arid, temperate and sub-tropical areas, especially where the soils are pure sand, peaty sands, sandy loams or light clays which experience seasonal drainage problems. As garden subjects it grows to 0.3 meters to 0.6meters in height by 1.5 meters to 2.5 meters in diameter when grown in the open. It is fast growing and is cold tolerant to temperatures as low as minus 3 degrees once established.

Many reports say it cannot be pruned. We have found the opposite, that pruning up to a third of the present season’s growth has no adverse effects on the shrubs; instead increases bushiness and promotes terminal growth and flowering is far more superior the following season.

It is most suitable for use in rockeries, along drive ways or adjacent to natural bush gardens. Mass plantings of 5 or more plants even in small areas; really do the plants justification especially when they are in flower and mixed with Jacksonia scoparia for height.

It is best used close to paths or the house so their yellow flowers can be viewed.

When you design a tall heath garden which Jacksonia stackhousei is well suited to don’t use contours to display the plants as heath lands are almost always flat or have a slight rise. Taller heaths are better placed on the downhill side of a path so that you can still look over the tallest plants. On flats ground the flowers will be at around eye level which is very striking. Place them back from the path as they are rather brittle and will be easily broken or passer-byes will continually remove the flower heads. If these plants are on display to the public you may have a never ending number of fanciers knocking on your door wanting to know the name and where you attained them from as they are so striking in the garden. Make the heath garden path narrow so you have to feel the plants as you walk through the garden bed. This gives an extra dimension which many people forget about when designing heath gardens. Plants must be planted close together and be short so you can see over the tallest ones with the exception of one or two plants at the most. These will be feature plants. The idea is to achieve a feeling of expansive flatness. This can be achieved with using the Jacksonia stackhousei’s brilliant yellow flowers. Mix them with other smaller shrubs with white and cream flowers for a soft look or deep pinks, reds and oranges for a bold strong look. Here I immediately think of Actinotis helianthi, Melaleuca pearsonii or other sub shrubs like Chloanthes parviflora, Pelargonium australe or, Pelargonium inodorum. Even Hibiscus diversifolia could be pruned and used in the back ground or allowed to straggle between clumps Jacksonia stackhousei in the fore ground. Glycyrrhiza acanthocarpa would be something entirely different next to a path where you can walk by and pick a leaf to crush and enjoy the aroma of licorice.

Propagation:

Seeds: Jacksonia stackhousei require treatment before sowing. Pre-treat by placing the seeds into a glass of hot water. Allow the water to cool and leave to soak for 4 to 8 hours. Seeds that have not swollen repeat the exercise.

Jacksonia scoparia seeds can be sown directly into a seed raising mix. Sow thinly and cover them with 5mm to 6mm of fine weed free mulch and keep moist. Place the tray in a warm sunny position. Harden plants off by placing them in full sun for a week before transplanting. This should be started when the seedlings are just 10mm tall. When the seedlings are 20mm to 25mm tall, prick them out and plant them into 50mm native tubes using a good organic mix. Be very careful at this stage as the plants are very susceptible to damping off as they resent root disturbance. I usually did this before watering the plants so the mix was semi dry.

Once the seedlings reach 100mm to 150mm in height they can be planted out into their permanent position.

Fertilize using Seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water and apply the liquid on an alternate basis. Fertilize every 2 months until the plants are well established then on an annual basis in September or March to maintain good health, vigour and better flowering.

Further Comments from Readers:

“Hi reader, it seems you use The Bible of Botany a lot. That’s great as we have great pleasure in bringing it to you! It’s a little awkward for us to ask, but our first aim is to purchase land approximately 1,600 hectares to link several parcels of N.P. into one at The Pinnacles NSW Australia, but we need your help. We’re not salespeople. We’re amateur botanists who have dedicated over 30 years to saving the environment in a practical way. We depend on donations to reach our goal. If you donate just $5, the price of your coffee this Sunday, We can help to keep the planet alive in a real way and continue to bring you regular updates and features on Australian plants all in one Botanical Bible. Any support is greatly appreciated. Thank you.”

In the spirit of reconciliation we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.

Jagera pseudorhus

Classification:

Unranked: Eudicots

Unranked Rosids

Order: Sapindales

Family: Sapindaceae

Genus: Apparently it is named in honour of Dr. Herbert de Jagger who was a collector of plants from Indonesia for the botanist Rumphius. It has also been suggested that it may be derived from the Aboriginal name for the tree as the people of the Brisbane area were known as the Jagera tribe/clan. The bark of the tree was used extensively for deoxygenating backwaters, which made fishing easy for the Jagera people to catch as the fish would rise to the surface in search of oxygen.

Specie: From Pseudos, which is Ancient Greek for false and Rhus, which is Latin for the Sumac tree. It refers to trees, which have similar foliage to the false Rhus or Sumac tree.

Sub species:

Common Name: Foam Bark.

Distribution:

Jagera pseudorhus is found south from the Torres Straight Islands and the Bloomfield River in far north eastern Queensland to the Manning River near Taree in central coastal New South Wales. It is mainly found on and east of the Great Dividing Range.

https://avh.ala.org.au/occurrences/search?taxa=Jagera+pseudorhus#tab_mapView

Habitat Aspect Climate:

Jagera pseudorhus prefers full sun to light dappled shade. It grows on hills, mountain sides and alluvial flats in and adjacent to moist rainforests, dry rainforests and riverine rainforests. The altitude ranges from 5 meters ASL to 1200 meters ASL.

The temperatures range from minus 3 degree in August to 38 degrees in January.

The rainfalls range from lows of 800mm to an average of 3200mm annually.

Soil Requirements:

Jagera pseudorhus prefers to grow on better quality loams to medium clays. The soils are usually derived from decomposed brown basalts, black basalts or shale, sandstones or metamorphic rocks. Better drained podsolic soils are also tolerated. The soils pH ranges from 5pH to 6pH are preferred. It does not tolerate water logged soils. Non saline soils to moderately saline soils are tolerated as are salt laden winds.

Height & Spread:

Wild Plants: 16m to 23m by 10m to 15m.

Characteristics:

Jagera pseudorhus’s trunk is flanged at the base on mature trees. The bole is around two thirds of the trees height. The grey bark has horizontal raised ridges and is often patch worked in lichens. The branchlets are erect and often covered in the scars from discarded leaves. The branchlets are densely covered in stiff, rusty hirtellous hairs.

Jagera pseudorhus’s alternate pinnate leaves a measure 150mm to 350mm in length by 100mm to 210mm in width. The alternate leaflets number 12 to 23 and measure 20mm to 110mm in length by 8mm to 30mm in width. The leaflets are narrow-elliptical to oblanceolate, straight to slightly falcate with the mid leaflets being the longest. The petioles measure 15mm to 40mm in length while the petiolules measure 1mm to 2.5mm in length. The bases are strongly oblique being rounded on one side and cuneate on the other side while the apexes are acuminate to acute. The concolourous laminas are grass-green to olive green and covered in stiff, rusty to rusty-orange hirtellous hairs. The margins are irregularly, finely toothed, flat and curve slightly upwards from the mid vein. The mid vein is prominent on the upper lamina and is distinctly visible from the lower lamina.

The inflorescences of Jagera pseudorhus are long panicles which are born terminally and measure 80mm to 250mm in length. The panicles are moderately covered in stiff rusty-brown hirtellous to pubescent hairs. The calyx is densely covered in rusty-brown pubescent hairs. The white flowers measure 2mm to 3mm in diameter. The style and 8 anthers are inserted in the corolla. The flowers appear from late July in the north and conclude in mid-December.

Jagera pseudorhus’s

Jagera pseudorhus’s fruit is an ovoid capsule. The capsules measure 15mm to 20mm in length by 13mm to 18mm in diameter. They are densely covered in long, stiff, rusty-red to rusty-orange hirtellous hairs. The green capsules turn a deep crimson then finally to a bright orange or orange-yellow as the fruits ripen. The woody to fleshy capsules dehisce into 3 valves to reveal a three deep brown to black, glabrous, glossy seed embedded in an internal layer of rusty hirtellous hairs. The ovoid to oblong seeds measure 6mm to 7.5mm in length by 4mm to 5mm diameter. The small white aril is basil.

Wildlife:

Jagera pseudorhus’s seeds are eaten by several larger honeyeaters like the Noisy friar bird Philemon corniculatusnoisy, Noisy minor Manorina melanocephala, Satin bowerbird Ptilonorhynchus violaceus and the Queensland Rifle bird Ptiloris paradiseus.

The bark and leaves of Jagera pseudorhus were used extensively by aborigines. The leaves were crushed in water then released in slow moving water, backwaters or mangrove ponds at low tide, where the fish would suffer breathing difficulties as the solution removed available oxygen from the water. As they surfaced and gasping on their sides made them easy prey to collect.

Cultivation:

Jagera pseudorhus is a beautiful small tree that is frequently overlooked by gardeners because of its form in pots It is suitable for small, medium and large sunny gardens close to the coast, temperate sub-tropical areas or tropical zones, especially where the soils are better quality sandy loams to light clays. As garden subjects it will grow to 8 meters to 12 meters high by 8 meters to 12 meters in diameter when grown in the open. It is slow growing initially especially in cooler climates but is moderate to fast after two or three years in the ground. It is cold tolerant to temperatures as low as minus 3 degrees once established.

It makes very good sea side shade trees and park trees having a broad shady canopy. It can also be used as a rainforest starter tree in smaller gardens. Plant them at 6 meter to 7 meter centers for quicker growth. The flowers have a heavy sweet woody perfumed scent followed by very colourful fruits over a long period adding to their versatility around the home. The trunk and larger branches are suitable for epiphytic ferns and orchids including the larger members of Platycerium genus, Asplenium (Birds’ Nests) and Davallia.

Propagation:

Seeds:

Propagation:

Seeds: Jagera pseudorhus seeds need to be fresh preferably picked from the tree when fully ripe or freshly dropped to the ground, remove the seeds from the capsules being careful not to get the irritating hairs on the skin and remove the aril from the seed for better results.

The seeds need to be sown within two weeks and can be sown directly into a seed raising mix. Cover them with 5mm to 6mm of fine weed free mulch and keep moist. Place the tray in a warm sunny position. When the seedlings are 20mm to 30mm tall, prick them out and plant them into 50mm native tubes using a good organic mix.

Once the seedlings reach 100mm to 150mm in height they can be planted out into their permanent position.

Fertilize using Seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water and apply the liquid on an alternate basis. Fertilize every 2 months until the plants are well established then on an annual basis in September or March to maintain good health, vigour and better flowering.

Further Comments from Readers:

“Hi reader, it seems you use The Bible of Botany a lot. That’s great as we have great pleasure in bringing it to you! It’s a little awkward for us to ask, but our first aim is to purchase land approximately 1,600 hectares to link several parcels of N.P. into one at The Pinnacles NSW Australia, but we need your help. We’re not salespeople. We’re amateur botanists who have dedicated over 30 years to saving the environment in a practical way. We depend on donations to reach our goal. If you donate just $5, the price of your coffee this Sunday, We can help to keep the planet alive in a real way and continue to bring you regular updates and features on Australian plants all in one Botanical Bible. Any support is greatly appreciated. Thank you.”

In the spirit of reconciliation we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.

Jasminum didymum

Classification:

Unranked: Eudicots

Unranked: Asterids

Order: Lamiales

Family: Oleaceae

Tribe: Jasmineae

Genus: From Yāsman, which is Latinized from the Persian word or Jassemin which is Latinized from the Arabic word for the Jasminum bush. It refers to the sweet scent of the Jasminum bush flowers.

Specie: From Didaymos, which is Ancient Greek for to double or in pairs. It refers to leaves or phyllodes which are born in pairs, which is unusual for the species when compared to other species in the genus.

Sub species: Jasminum didymum subsp. didymium. From Didaymos, which is Ancient Greek for to double or in pairs. It refers to leaves or phyllodes which are born in pairs, which is unusual for the species when compared to other species in the genus.

Sub species: Jasminum didymum subsp. lineare. From Linearis, which is Latin for straight lines. It usually refers to leaves, which are narrower and where the veins appear in straight lines compared to other species or subspecies in the genus.

Sub species: Jasminum didymum subsp. racemosum. From Racēmōsum, which is Latin for a cluster. It refers to flowers, which are born on densely packed racemes.

Common Name: Native Jasminum.

Distribution:

Jasminum didymum subsp. didymium is a widespread specie found from Broome in Western Australia across the top end down to Brisbane in far southern Queensland. On the east coast it is found on and east of the Great Dividing Range.

Jasminum didymum subsp. lineare is a widespread species found over most of mainland Australia except Victoria and the true deserts.

Jasminum didymum subsp. racemosum is a widespread species from the Fitzroy River in Western Australia and north to Darwin, the coastal strip and some off shore Islands of the Arafura Sea and Gulf of Carpentaria then south to the Gold Coast Hinter land on the eastern two thirds of Queensland.

https://avh.ala.org.au/occurrences/search?taxa=Jasminum+didymum#tab_mapView

Habitat Aspect Climate:

Jasminum didymum prefers light dappled shade to medium shade. It grows in gallery rainforests, riparian rain forests, dry Eucalyptus forests, Acacia forests, or dry littoral rainforests. It grows close to the coast to high in the mountains to the western plains and sheltered areas in canyons, at the base of cliffs where moisture and protection are guaranteed. The altitude ranges from 5 meters ASL to 860 meters ASL.

The temperatures range from 10 degree in August to 43 degrees in January.

The rainfalls range from lows of 200mm to an average of 3200mm annually.

Soil Requirements:

Jasminum didymium prefers to grow on better quality loams to medium clays. The soils are usually derived from shale, sandstones, granites, metamorphic rocks, brown basalts or black basalts. Poorly drained podsolic soils are a common feature of the terrain and soil. The soils pH ranges from 5pH to 7.5pH are preferred. It does not tolerate water logged soils. Non saline soils to very saline soils are tolerated as are salt laden winds.

Height & Spread:

Wild Plants: 1m to 2m by 1m to 3m as a scandent shrub or to 12 meters as a climber.

Characteristics:

Jasminum didymum’s stems are corky, glabrous and variable in colour from pale creamy fawn to pale brown. The stems will root from the nodes where they come in contact with the ground.

Jasminum didymum subsp. didymum’s opposite trifoliate, ovate to broadly lanceolate or broadly elliptical leaves measure 50mm to 100mm in length by 40mm to 100mm in width overall. The terminal leaflets measure 25mm to 50mm in length by 18mm to 45mm in width. The lateral leaflets are smaller measuring 20mm to 40mm in length by 12mm to 35mm in width. The size difference is much more accentuated on juvenile plants. The petioles measure 15mm to 25mm in length while the petiolules measure 1mm to 2mm in length on the two lateral leaflets. The bases are rounded while the apexes are acute to acute-obtuse. The concolourous laminas are deep green to deep sea-green and glabrous except for a few hirtellous hairs surrounding the domatia along the main veins. The margins are entire and curve slightly upwards from the mid vein. The mid vein is prominent on the lower lamina and is distinctly visible from above being much paler than the lamina.

Jasminum didymum subsp. didymum’s terminal leaflets measure 45mm to 65mm in length by 22mm to 50mm in width. The lateral leaflets are smaller measuring 25mm to 45mm in length by 25mm to 45mm in width.

Jasminum didymum ssp. lineare the end leaflet of the leaf measures 2mm to 12mm in width.

The inflorescences of Jasminum didymum subsp. racemosum are erect cymes born from the terminal or leaf axis. The cymes measures 20mm to 40mm in length. The pedicels measure 10mm to 12mm in length. There are 15 to 80 flowers to a cymae. The green glabrous calyx has 5 minute lobes. The calyx measures 1mm to 1.2mm in length. The corolla is white externally and cream to yellow internally and measures 5mm to 9mm in length by 1mm to 2mm in diameter while the recurved lobes measure 3mm to 4mm in length.

The cream to yellow stamens and style are inserted. The pistils measure 3.5mm to 6.5mm in length including the 1mm to 2mm bilobed stigma while the filaments measure 0.5 to 1mm in length. The linear anthers measure 3mm to 4mm in length. The pollen is deep yellow. The sweetly scented flowers appear from October to May.

The inflorescences of Jasminum didymum subsp. didymum are erect cymes born from the terminal or leaf axis. The cymes measures 20mm to 40mm in length. The pedicels measure 10mm to 12mm in length. There are 15 to 80 flowers to a cymae. The green glabrous calyx has 5 minute lobes. The calyx measures 1mm to 1.2mm in length. The corolla is white externally and cream to yellow internally and measures 5mm to 10mm in length by 1mm to 2mm in diameter while the recurved lobes measure 3mm to 6mm in length.

The cream to yellow stamens and style are inserted. The pistils measure 4.5mm to 7mm in length including the 1mm to 2mm bilobed stigma while the filaments measure 0.5 to 1mm in length. The linear anthers measure 3.5mm to 4.5mm in length. The pollen is deep yellow-orange. The strong but sweetly scented flowers appear from October to May.

Jasminum didymum ssp. lineare’s flower clusters have 3 to 15 individual flowers. The flowers appear in January to June, August to September or November.

Jasminum didymum subsp. racemosum’s fruit is an orbicular drupe. There are usually more than two drupes forming on a cymae. The drupes measure 8mm to 10mm diameter. The glabrous, green drupes turn black on ripening. The ellipsoidal black seeds are glabrous to wrinkled and measure 6mm to 7mm in length by 5mm to 6mm in diameter

Jasminum didymum subsp. didymum’s fruit is an ellipsoidal drupe. There are usually one or two drupes forming on a cymae. The drupes measure 8mm to 10mm in length by 6mm to 9mm in diameter. The glabrous, green drupes turn black on ripening. The ellipsoidal black seeds are glabrous to wrinkled and measure 5mm to 9mm in length by 5mm to 8mm in diameter.

Wildlife:

Jasminum didymum’s wildlife is unknown to the author.

Cultivation:

Jasminum didymum are very beautiful addition to small, medium and large semi shaded gardens close to the coast or high in the mountains. It is an excellent plant in sub tropical, tropical or monsoonal gardens especially where the soils are deep or skeletal loams exist. As garden subjects they will grow to 1.2 meters to 2 meters in height by 1.5 meters to 2 meters in diameter as a scandent sub-shrub but usually attempt to send out one or more climbing tendrils.

It responds very well to additional native fertilizers. It is fast growing and are cold tolerant to temperatures as low as 3 degrees.

It is most suitable for use on swimming pools fences, bright courtyards, besides pathways, rockeries, along sandy clay banks or along drive ways. They are slow to establish themselves outside the tropics but are worth the wait once they start to flower.

It makes great inclusions in temperate and tropical rain forests where their scent can linger well into the night. Jasminum didymium should be more widely planted along the coast as far south as Melbourne, Adelaide and even Perth on the west coast.

Propagation:

Seeds: Jasminum didymum seeds can be sown directly into a seed raising mix. Cover them with 5mm to 6mm of fine weed free mulch and keep moist. Place the tray in a warm sunny position. When the seedlings are 20mm to 30mm tall, prick them out and plant them into 50mm native tubes using a good organic mix.

Once the seedlings reach 100mm to 150mm in height they can be planted out into their permanent position.

Cuttings: Cuttings must be used if a particular form or sub species is required and the seed maybe cross pollinated. Use 80mm to 120mm long hardened material when growing from cuttings from the present season’s growth. Take them in the warmer months of the year.

Remove half the leaves from the bottom section being careful not to tear the bark. Take a 10mm slice off the bark from the bottom of the cutting on one side.

1 Prepare the cutting mix by adding one third sharp clean river sand, one third peat and one third perlite. These ingredients are sterilize,

2 Select good material from non diseased plants,    

3 Select semi green stems for cuttings. Look for a stem with two or three nodes,

4 Place the cutting on a flat, hard surface, and make a clean cut down one side of the cutting at the base for 10mm with a sharp sterile knife or razor blade. – This scarification of the node will increase the chances of roots emerging from this spot. Now remove all but one or two the leaves, leaving the apex leaves in tact. If the leaves are very large in proportion to the stem, cut off the apical halves.

5 Fill a saucer with water, and place a little medium strength rooting hormone into another container like a milk bottle top. Dip the node end of the cutting into the water and then into the rooting hormone. Tap off any excess hormone,

6 Use a small dipple stick or old pencil to poke a hole into the soilless potting mix. Ensure the hole is slightly larger than the stem diameter and be careful not to wipe the rooting hormone off the cuttings base, place the cuttings in a pattern ensuring the cuttings are not touching each other,

7 I like to place the pots in Plastic bags to help maintain temperature and moisture. Place in a semi shaded place like under 50{98c9b985d4dc543f86c0cb8c6df3d397ea5754df614d759fdd5c1720a0a9cf2f} shade cloth.

8 When the cuttings have struck, open the bag to allow air circulation for a few days to a week,

9 Once hardened off remove the cuttings from the bag and allow to further hardening for a few more days,

10 Transplant into a good potting mix to grow on.

Fertilize using seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water on an alternate basis. Fertilize every two months until the plants are established then twice annually in early September or March to maintain health, vitality and better flowering.

Further Comments from Readers:

“Hi reader, it seems you use The Bible of Botany a lot. That’s great as we have great pleasure in bringing it to you! It’s a little awkward for us to ask, but our first aim is to purchase land approximately 1,600 hectares to link several parcels of N.P. into one at The Pinnacles NSW Australia, but we need your help. We’re not salespeople. We’re amateur botanists who have dedicated over 30 years to saving the environment in a practical way. We depend on donations to reach our goal. If you donate just $5, the price of your coffee this Sunday, We can help to keep the planet alive in a real way and continue to bring you regular updates and features on Australian plants all in one Botanical Bible. Any support is greatly appreciated. Thank you.”

In the spirit of reconciliation we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.

Jasminum molle

Classification:

Unranked: Eudicots

Unranked: Asterids

Order: Lamiales

Family: Oleaceae

Tribe: Jasmineae

Genus: From Yāsman, which is Latinized from the Persian word or Jassemin which is Latinized from the Arabic word for the Jasminum bush. It refers to the sweet scent of the Jasminum bush flowers.

Specie: From Mollis, which is Latin for softly hairy and supple to touch. It refers to structures or organs, which have short, soft white hairs.

Common Name:

Distribution:

Jasminum molle is found in a line north from Broome in Western Australia to the south western corner of Cape York Peninsular in far north Queensland to the coast.

https://avh.ala.org.au/occurrences/search?taxa=Jasminum+molle#tab_mapView

Habitat Aspect Climate:

Jasminum molle prefers full sun to medium shade. It grows in vine thickets, open schlerophyll eucalypt forest and desert shrub country. The altitude ranges from near sea level to 300 meters ASL.

The temperatures range from 6 degrees in August to above 40 degrees in January.

The rainfalls range from lows of 300mm to an average of 1600mm annually.

Soil Requirements:

Jasminum molle grows on most sandy loams to medium clays. The soils are usually derived from shale, sandstones, granites, metamorphic rocks, shale, brown basalts, black basalts or mudstones, podsolics, alluviums and alluvial washes. The soils pH ranges from 4.5pH to 6.5pH are preferred. It does not tolerate water logged soils. Non saline soils to moderately saline soils are tolerated.

Height & Spread:

Wild Plants: 0.3m to 0.5m by 1m to 4m as a scandent shrub or to 8 meters as a scrambling climber.

Characteristics:

Jasminum molle‘s older stems are white to pale grey and glabrous.

The juvenile stems are moderately covered in short, soft white hairs.

The stems will root from the nodes where they come in contact with

the ground.

Jasminum molle’s opposite broad ovate to broad elliptical leaves measure 35mm to 45mm in length by 16mm to 25mm in width. The channelled petioles are moderately covered in short, soft white hairs. The petioles measure 5mm to 15mm in length. There is a pulvinus or articulation near the base of the petiole just prior to its junction with the stem. The bases are truncate while the apexes are tapering obtuse. The concolourous laminas are deep green to sea-green and glabrous on the upper laminas while the lower laminas are glabrous or slightly covered in short, soft white hairs along the midvein. The laminas recurve upwards from the mid vein to the margins and decurve downwards from the petiole. The mid vein is prominent on the lower lamina and is distinctly visible on the upper lamina. The lateral veins are obscure on both laminas.

The inflorescences of Jasminum molle are born on short cymes or small clusters from the leaf axis. The pedicels measure 10mm to 12mm in length. There are 1 to 7 flowers to a cymae. The green, glabrous calyx has 5 lobes. The 4 to 6 calyx lobes measure 0.3mm to 1.5mm in length. The white corolla has 4 or 6 lobes. The corolla tube measures 9mm to 16mm in length while the lobes measure 7mm to 10mm in length

The white stamens and style are inserted. The anthers are narrow linear and measure 3mm to 3.5mm in length. The linear style measures 3.5mm to 4mm in length while the broad linear stigma measures 2mm in length. The strong but sweetly scented flowers appear from October to May.

asminum molle’s fruits are globular to ellipsoidal berries which measure 8mm to 15mm in length by 7mm to 14mm in diameter. The calyx lobes are persistent on the glabrous, black, ripe fruits. The glabrous, green drupes turn glossy black when ripe.

Wildlife:

Jasminum molle’s wildlife is unknown to the author.

Cultivation:

Jasminum molle are very beautiful addition to small, medium and large semi shaded gardens close to the coast or high in the mountains. They are an excellent plant in sub tropical, tropical or monsoonal gardens especially where the soils are deep or skeletal loams exist. As garden subjects they will grow to 1.2 meters to 2 meters in height by 1.5 meters to 3 meters in diameter as a scandent climber.

It responds very well to additional native fertilizers. It is fast growing but may not be cold tolerant to temperatures as low as 3 degrees.

It is most suitable for use on swimming pools fences, bright courtyards, besides pathways, rockeries, along sandy clay banks or along drive ways. They are slow to establish themselves outside the tropics but are worth the wait once they start to flower.

Jasminum molle should be more widely planted along the coast as far south as Melbourne, Adelaide and even Perth on the west coast.

Propagation:

Seeds: Jasminum molle seeds can be sown directly into a seed raising mix. Cover them with 5mm to 6mm of fine weed free mulch and keep moist. Place the tray in a warm sunny position. When the seedlings are 20mm to 30mm tall, prick them out and plant them into 50mm native tubes using a good organic mix.

Once the seedlings reach 100mm to 150mm in height they can be planted out into their permanent position.

Cuttings: Cuttings must be used if a particular form is required or where the seed maybe cross pollinated. Use 80mm to 120mm long hardened material when growing from cuttings from the present season’s growth. Take them in the warmer months of the year.

Remove half the leaves from the bottom section being careful not to tear the bark. Take a 10mm slice off the bark from the bottom of the cutting on one side.

1 Prepare the cutting mix by adding one third sharp clean river sand, one third peat and one third perlite. These ingredients are sterilize,

2 Select good material from non diseased plants,    

3 Select semi green stems for cuttings. Look for a stem with two or three nodes,

4 Place the cutting on a flat, hard surface, and make a clean cut down one side of the cutting at the base for 10mm with a sharp sterile knife or razor blade. – This scarification of the node will increase the chances of roots emerging from this spot. Now remove all but one or two the leaves, leaving the apex leaves in tact. If the leaves are very large in proportion to the stem, cut off the apical halves.

5 Fill a saucer with water, and place a little medium strength rooting hormone into another container like a milk bottle top. Dip the node end of the cutting into the water and then into the rooting hormone. Tap off any excess hormone,

6 Use a small dipple stick or old pencil to poke a hole into the soilless potting mix. Ensure the hole is slightly larger than the stem diameter and be careful not to wipe the rooting hormone off the cuttings base, place the cuttings in a pattern ensuring the cuttings are not touching each other,

7 I like to place the pots in Plastic bags to help maintain temperature and moisture. Place in a semi shaded place like under 50{98c9b985d4dc543f86c0cb8c6df3d397ea5754df614d759fdd5c1720a0a9cf2f} shade cloth.

8 When the cuttings have struck, open the bag to allow air circulation for a few days to a week,

9 Once hardened off remove the cuttings from the bag and allow to further hardening for a few more days,

10 Transplant into a good potting mix to grow on.

Fertilize using seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water on an alternate basis. Fertilize every two months until the plants are established then twice annually in early September or March to maintain health, vitality and better flowering.

Further Comments from Readers:

“Hi reader, it seems you use The Bible of Botany a lot. That’s great as we have great pleasure in bringing it to you! It’s a little awkward for us to ask, but our first aim is to purchase land approximately 1,600 hectares to link several parcels of N.P. into one at The Pinnacles NSW Australia, but we need your help. We’re not salespeople. We’re amateur botanists who have dedicated over 30 years to saving the environment in a practical way. We depend on donations to reach our goal. If you donate just $5, the price of your coffee this Sunday, We can help to keep the planet alive in a real way and continue to bring you regular updates and features on Australian plants all in one Botanical Bible. Any support is greatly appreciated. Thank you.”

In the spirit of reconciliation we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.

Jasminum simplicifolium

Classification:

Unranked: Eudicots

Unranked: Asterids

Order: Lamiales

Family: Oleaceae

Tribe: Jasmineae

Genus: From Yāsman, which is Latinized from the Persian word or Jassemin which is Latinized from the Arabic word for the Jasminum bush. It refers to the sweet scent of the Jasminum bush flowers.

Specie: From Simplus, which is Latin for not complex or compound and Folium, which is Latin for foliage. It refers to plants which have simple leaves.

Sub species: Jasminum simplicifolium subsp. australiensis has recently been transferred to Jasminum volubile as a new species.

Sub species: Jasminum simplicifolium subsp. suavissimum. From Simplus, which is Latin for not complex or compound and Folium, which is Latin for foliage. It refers to plants which have simple leaves.

Variety: Jasminum simplicifolium var. molle has recently been transferred to Jasminum molle as a new species.

Common Name:

Distribution:

Jasminum simplicifolium is found from Mount Moffat National Park east to the coast and in a line to Sydney in the south.

https://avh.ala.org.au/occurrences/search?taxa=Jasminum+simplicifolium#tab_mapView

Habitat Aspect Climate:

Jasminum simplicifolium prefers full sun to medium shade. It grows in schlerophyll Eucalyptus forests, closed mixed forests and open mixed woodlands. It grows close to the coast to high in the mountains or sheltered areas in canyons, at the base of cliffs where moisture and protection are guaranteed. The altitude ranges from 2 meters ASL to 950 meters ASL.

The temperatures range from minus 4 degrees in August to 40 degrees in January.

The rainfalls range from lows of 400mm to an average of 2000mm annually.

Soil Requirements:

Jasminum simplicifolium grows on most sandy loams to medium clays. The soils are usually derived from shale, sandstones, granites, metamorphic rocks, shale, brown basalts, black basalts or mudstones, podsolics, alluviums and alluvial washes. The soils pH ranges from 4.5pH to 6.5pH are preferred. It does not tolerate water logged soils. Non saline soils to moderately saline soils are tolerated.

Height & Spread:

Wild Plants: 0.3m to 0.5m by 1m to 4m as a scandent shrub or to 8 meters as a scrambling climber.

Characteristics:

Jasminum simplicifolium’s stems are corky, glabrous and variable in colour from pale creamy fawn to pale brown. The stems are glabrous to moderately covered in white pulverulent hairs especially when young. The stems will root from the nodes where they come in contact with the ground.

Jasminum simplicifolium’s alternate broad linear to narrow elliptical leaves measure 15mm to 50mm in length by 2mm to 10mm in width. The petioles are glabrous. The petioles measure 1mm to 3mm in length. The bases are rounded to cuneate while the apexes are acute. The discolourous laminas are deep green to sea-green and glabrous on the upper laminas while the lower laminas are paler. The laminas are flat, recurve upwards slightly from the mid vein to the margins or decurve downwards slightly from the mid vein to the margins while the margins are entire or slightly undulating. The mid vein is prominent on the lower lamina and is distinctly visible on the upper lamina. The lateral veins are obscure on both laminas.

The inflorescences of Jasminum simplicifolium are short cymes or small clusters born from the leaf axis. The pedicels measure 10mm to 12mm in length. There are 1 to 7 flowers to a cymae. The green, glabrous calyx has 5 lobes. The calyxes measure 1mm to 2mm in length while the 5 or 6 lobes measure 1.5mm to 4mm in length. The corolla is white and measures 8mm to 11mm in length by 1mm to 2mm in diameter while the 6 to 8 lobes measure 7mm to 9mm in length.

The white stamens and style are inserted. The strong but sweetly scented flowers appear from October to May.

Jasminum simplicifolium’s fruits are ellipsoidal berries. The berries measure 6mm to 7mm in length by 4mm to 5mm in diameter. The glabrous, green drupes turn glossy black when ripe.

Wildlife:

Jasminum simplicifolium’s wildlife is unknown to the author.

Cultivation:

Jasminum simplicifolium are very beautiful addition to small, medium and large semi shaded gardens close to the coast or high in the mountains. They are an excellent plant in sub tropical, tropical or monsoonal gardens especially where the soils are deep or skeletal loams exist. As garden subjects they will grow to 1.2 meters to 2 meters in height by 1.5 meters to 2 meters in diameter as a scandent sub-shrub but usually attempt to send out one or more climbing tendrils.

It responds very well to additional native fertilizers. They are fast growing and are cold tolerant to temperatures as low as 3 degrees.

It is most suitable for use on swimming pools fences, bright courtyards, besides pathways, rockeries, along sandy clay banks or along drive ways. They are slow to establish themselves outside the tropics but are worth the wait once they start to flower.

It makes great inclusions in temperate and tropical rain forests where their scent can linger well into the night. I have successfully grown Jasminum simplicifoliumin Nana Glen where it grew to the tops of Melaleuca saligna which grew adjacent to a riparian rainforest. Unfortunately the flowers were never in sight but we could always smell them when entering the rainforest.

Jasminum simplicifolium should be more widely planted along the coast as far south as Melbourne, Adelaide and even Perth on the west coast.

Propagation:

Seeds: Jasminum simplicifolium seeds can be sown directly into a seed raising mix. Cover them with 5mm to 6mm of fine weed free mulch and keep moist. Place the tray in a warm sunny position. When the seedlings are 20mm to 30mm tall, prick them out and plant them into 50mm native tubes using a good organic mix.

Once the seedlings reach 100mm to 150mm in height they can be planted out into their permanent position.

Cuttings: Cuttings must be used if a particular form is required and where the seed maybe cross pollinated. Use 80mm to 120mm long hardened material when growing from cuttings from the present season’s growth. Take them in the warmer months of the year.

Remove half the leaves from the bottom section being careful not to tear the bark. Take a 10mm slice off the bark from the bottom of the cutting on one side.

1 Prepare the cutting mix by adding one third sharp clean river sand, one third peat and one third perlite. These ingredients are sterilize,

2 Select good material from non diseased plants,    

3 Select semi green stems for cuttings. Look for a stem with two or three nodes,

4 Place the cutting on a flat, hard surface, and make a clean cut down one side of the cutting at the base for 10mm with a sharp sterile knife or razor blade. – This scarification of the node will increase the chances of roots emerging from this spot. Now remove all but one or two the leaves, leaving the apex leaves in tact. If the leaves are very large in proportion to the stem, cut off the apical halves.

5 Fill a saucer with water, and place a little medium strength rooting hormone into another container like a milk bottle top. Dip the node end of the cutting into the water and then into the rooting hormone. Tap off any excess hormone,

6 Use a small dipple stick or old pencil to poke a hole into the soilless potting mix. Ensure the hole is slightly larger than the stem diameter and be careful not to wipe the rooting hormone off the cuttings base, place the cuttings in a pattern ensuring the cuttings are not touching each other,

7 I like to place the pots in Plastic bags to help maintain temperature and moisture. Place in a semi shaded place like under 50{98c9b985d4dc543f86c0cb8c6df3d397ea5754df614d759fdd5c1720a0a9cf2f} shade cloth.

8 When the cuttings have struck, open the bag to allow air circulation for a few days to a week,

9 Once hardened off remove the cuttings from the bag and allow to further hardening for a few more days,

10 Transplant into a good potting mix to grow on.

Fertilize using seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water on an alternate basis. Fertilize every two months until the plants are established then twice annually in early September or March to maintain health, vitality and better flowering.

Further Comments from Readers:

“Hi reader, it seems you use The Bible of Botany a lot. That’s great as we have great pleasure in bringing it to you! It’s a little awkward for us to ask, but our first aim is to purchase land approximately 1,600 hectares to link several parcels of N.P. into one at The Pinnacles NSW Australia, but we need your help. We’re not salespeople. We’re amateur botanists who have dedicated over 30 years to saving the environment in a practical way. We depend on donations to reach our goal. If you donate just $5, the price of your coffee this Sunday, We can help to keep the planet alive in a real way and continue to bring you regular updates and features on Australian plants all in one Botanical Bible. Any support is greatly appreciated. Thank you.”

In the spirit of reconciliation we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.

Jasminum singuliflorum

Classification:

Unranked: Eudicots

Unranked: Asterids

Order: Lamiales

Family: Oleaceae

Tribe: Jasmineae

Genus: From Yāsman, which is Latinized from the Persian word or Jassemin which is Latinized from the Arabic word for the Jasminum bush. It refers to the sweet scent of the Jasminum bush flowers.

Specie: From Singularis, which is Latin for one of a kind, single or to be exceptional and Flōris, which is Latin for a flower or Flōs, which is the Roman Goddess for spring and flowers. It refers the flowers, which are appear singularly from the leaf axis compared to other species in the genus where the flowers appear in multiple numbers.

Sub species:

Common Name:

Distribution:

Jasminum singuliflorum is found south from Maleny in south eastern coastal Queensland to the Richmond Valley in north eastern coastal New South Wales with a disjunct population further south near Dorrigo and further north at Carmila Beach near Mackay. It is found on and east of the Great Dividing Range.

https://avh.ala.org.au/occurrences/search?taxa=Jasminum+singuliflorum#tab_mapView

Habitat Aspect Climate:

Jasminum singuliflorum prefers full sun to medium shade. It grows in gallery rainforests, moist open Eucalyptus forests, moist Eucalyptus woodlands or adjacent to warm subtropical rainforests. The altitude ranges from 5 meters ASL to 650 meters ASL.

The temperatures range from 3 degrees in August to 36 degrees in January.

The rainfalls range from lows of 1100mm to an average of 1800mm annually.

Soil Requirements:

Jasminum singuliflorum prefers better quality loams to medium clays. The soils are usually derived from metamorphic rocks, brown basalts or black basalts. The soils pH ranges from 5pH to 6pH are preferred. It does not tolerate water logged soils. Non saline soils to moderately saline soils are tolerated.

Height & Spread:

Wild Plants: 3m to 10m by 1m to 3m

Characteristics:

Jasminum singuliflorum’s grows as a small vine with corky, flaky and variable in colour stems. The older stems are pale grey to pale brown. The upper deep green stems are covered in white tomentose hairs and will root from the nodes where they come in contact with the ground.

Jasminum singuliflorum alternate trifoliate leaves are ovate to broadly elliptical with the terminal leaf being the largest. The lateral leaflets measure 15mm to 40mm in length by 15mm to 25mm in width. The terminal leaflets measure 23mm to 45mm in length by 23mm to 33mm in width. The bases are broadly rounded to truncate while the apexes are broad obtuse. The concolourous laminas are deep green to sea-green and glabrous on the upper laminas while the lower laminas are sparsely covered in white tomentose hairs especially around the small domatia which are present along the main veins. The laminas are flat or decurve downwards slightly near the margins while the terminal leaflet also decurve gently from the base to the apex. The margins are entire. The mid vein is prominent on the lower lamina and is distinctly visible from the upper lamina and is often recessed. The petioles measure 4mm to 15mm in length while the lateral petiolules measure 4mm to 6mm in length and the terminal petiolule measures measure 6mm to 12mm in length.

The inflorescences of Jasminum singuliflorum is a single cymose born from the leaf axis. The pedicels are densely clothed in short white hairs and measure 2mm to 13mm in length.  There is 1 or more often 3 to 5 flowers in a cyme. The deep green, glabrous calyxes have 5 minute lobes. The calyx tubes measure 2mm to 4mm in length while the 5 lobes measure 0.5mm to 1mm in length. The corollas are white externally and creamy green to greenish-yellow internally. The corolla tubes measures 12mm to 15mm in length by 2mm to 4mm in diameter while the 5 lobes measure 7mm to 10mm in length.

The cream to yellow stamens and style are inserted. The pistils measure 3.5mm to 6.5mm in length including the 1mm to 2mm bilobed stigma while the filaments measure 0.5 to 1mm in length. The linear anthers measure 3mm to 4mm in length. The pollen is deep yellow. The sweetly scented flowers appear from mid-June to mid-November.

Jasminum singuliflorum’s fruits are globose berries. There are usually one or two drupes forming on a cyme. The berries measure 8mm to 10mm in length by 10mm to 13mm in diameter. The calyxes are persistent at the base of the black berries when they are ripe. The 1 or 2 seeds in a fruit are hemispherical and measure 8mm to 9mm in length by 7mm to 8mm in diameter.

Confusing Species:

Jasminum dalachii is restricted to north Queensland. The leaves are larger to 95mm in length. The calyxes measure 3mm to 4mm in length while the corolla measures 12mm to 15mm in length and the lobes measure 7mm to 10mm in length by 2mm in width. The flowers number 5 to 9.

Wildlife:

Jasminum singuliflorum’s wildlife is unknown to the author.

Cultivation:

Jasminum singuliflorum are very beautiful addition to small, medium and large semi shaded gardens close to the coast or high in the mountains. They are an excellent plant in sub tropical, tropical or monsoonal gardens especially where the soils are deep or skeletal loams exist. As garden subjects they will grow to 1.2 meters to 2 meters in height by 1.5 meters to 3 meters in diameter as a scandent sub-shrub but usually attempt to send out one or more climbing tendrils.

It responds very well to additional native fertilizers. They are fast growing and are cold tolerant to temperatures as low as 3 degrees.

It is most suitable for use on swimming pools fences, bright courtyards, besides pathways, rockeries, along sandy clay banks or along drive ways. They are slow to establish themselves outside the tropics but are worth the wait once they start to flower.

It makes great inclusions in temperate and tropical rain forests where their scent can linger well into the night. I have successfully grown Jasminum singuliflorum in Nana Glen where it grew to the tops of Melaleuca saligna which grew adjacent to a riparian rainforest. Unfortunately the flowers were never in sight but we could always smell them when entering the rainforest.

Jasminum singuliflorum should be more widely planted along the coast as far south as Melbourne, Adelaide and even Perth on the west coast.

Propagation:

Seeds: Jasminum singuliflorum seeds can be sown directly into a seed raising mix. Cover them with 5mm to 6mm of fine weed free mulch and keep moist. Place the tray in a warm sunny position. When the seedlings are 20mm to 30mm tall, prick them out and plant them into 50mm native tubes using a good organic mix.

Once the seedlings reach 100mm to 150mm in height they can be planted out into their permanent position.

Cuttings: Cuttings must be used if purity of a species is required and where the seed maybe cross pollinated. Use 80mm to 120mm long hardened material when growing from cuttings from the present season’s growth. Take them in the warmer months of the year.

Remove half the leaves from the bottom section being careful not to tear the bark. Take a 10mm slice off the bark from the bottom of the cutting on one side.

1 Prepare the cutting mix by adding one third sharp clean river sand, one third peat and one third perlite. These ingredients are sterilize,

2 Select good material from non diseased plants,    

3 Select semi green stems for cuttings. Look for a stem with two or three nodes,

4 Place the cutting on a flat, hard surface, and make a clean cut down one side of the cutting at the base for 10mm with a sharp sterile knife or razor blade. – This scarification of the node will increase the chances of roots emerging from this spot. Now remove all but one or two the leaves, leaving the apex leaves in tact. If the leaves are very large in proportion to the stem, cut off the apical halves.

5 Fill a saucer with water, and place a little medium strength rooting hormone into another container like a milk bottle top. Dip the node end of the cutting into the water and then into the rooting hormone. Tap off any excess hormone,

6 Use a small dipple stick or old pencil to poke a hole into the soilless potting mix. Ensure the hole is slightly larger than the stem diameter and be careful not to wipe the rooting hormone off the cuttings base, place the cuttings in a pattern ensuring the cuttings are not touching each other,

7 I like to place the pots in Plastic bags to help maintain temperature and moisture. Place in a semi shaded place like under 50{98c9b985d4dc543f86c0cb8c6df3d397ea5754df614d759fdd5c1720a0a9cf2f} shade cloth.

8 When the cuttings have struck, open the bag to allow air circulation for a few days to a week,

9 Once hardened off remove the cuttings from the bag and allow to further hardening for a few more days,

10 Transplant into a good potting mix to grow on.

Fertilize using seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water on an alternate basis. Fertilize every two months until the plants are established then twice annually in early September or March to maintain health, vitality and better flowering.

Further Comments from Readers:

“Hi reader, it seems you use The Bible of Botany a lot. That’s great as we have great pleasure in bringing it to you! It’s a little awkward for us to ask, but our first aim is to purchase land approximately 1,600 hectares to link several parcels of N.P. into one at The Pinnacles NSW Australia, but we need your help. We’re not salespeople. We’re amateur botanists who have dedicated over 30 years to saving the environment in a practical way. We depend on donations to reach our goal. If you donate just $5, the price of your coffee this Sunday, We can help to keep the planet alive in a real way and continue to bring you regular updates and features on Australian plants all in one Botanical Bible. Any support is greatly appreciated. Thank you.”

In the spirit of reconciliation we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.

Jasminum volubile

Classification:

Unranked: Eudicots

Unranked: Asterids

Order: Lamiales

Family: Oleaceae

Tribe: Jasmineae

Genus: From Yāsman, which is Latinized from the Persian word or Jassemin which is Latinized from the Arabic word for the Jasminum bush. It refers to the sweet scent of the Jasminum bush flowers.

Specie: From Volūbilis, which is Latin for to turn slowly or to flow. It refers to stems, which bend or go with the flow or contours of the land or surrounding shrubs.

Sub species:

Common Name: Stiff Jasminum.

Distribution:

Jasminum volubile is restricted to an area on and east of the Great Dividing Range from Kenilworth in southern Queensland to Singleton in central coastal New South Wales.

https://avh.ala.org.au/occurrences/search?taxa=Jasminum+volubile#tab_mapView

Habitat Aspect Climate:

Jasminum volubile prefers dappled shade to full sun. It grows in gallery forests, warm subtropical rainforests, riparian rainforests, adjacent to well-developed rainforests, dry rain forests or wet Eucalyptus forests. It is found growing close to the coast to high in the mountains. The altitude ranges from 5 meters ASL to 900 meters ASL.

The temperatures range from 10 degree in August to 43 degrees in January.

The rainfalls range from lows of 900mm to an average of 1600mm annually.

Soil Requirements:

Jasminum volubile prefers to grow on low nutrient light clays to medium clays. The soils are usually derived from shale, sandstones, metamorphic rocks or mudstones. Poorly drained podsolic soils are a common feature of the terrain and soil. The soils pH ranges from 5pH to 6pH are preferred. It does not tolerate water logged soils. Non saline soils to very saline soils are tolerated as are salt laden winds.

Height & Spread:

Wild Plants: 1m to 2m by 1m to 3m as a scandent shrub in the open or to 10 meters as a climber.

Characteristics:

Jasminum volubile’s stems are corky, glabrous and variable in colour from pale creamy fawn to pale brown. The stems will root from the nodes where they come in contact with the ground. Young shots are glabrous or sparsely covered in white pulverulent hairs.

Jasminum volubile’s opposite ovate to broadly lanceolate leaves measure 30mm to 70mm in length by 10mm to 40mm in width overall. The base is rounded to cuneate while the apex is acute. The concolourous laminas are deep green to deep sea-green and glabrous. The margins are entire and curve slightly upwards from the mid vein. The mid vein is prominent on the lower lamina and is distinctly visible from above being much paler than the lamina. The petioles measure 2mm to 6mm in length.

The inflorescences of Jasminum volubile are erect cymes born from the terminal. The cymes measures 20mm to 40mm in length. The pedicels measure 10mm to 12mm in length. There are 11 to 40 flowers to a cymae. The green glabrous calyx measures 2mm in length. The 5 to 8 calyx lobes measure 1mm. The corolla is white externally and is white to pale green internally and measures 8mm to 10mm in length by 1mm to 2mm in diameter. The linear lobes measure 6mm to 8mm in length by 2.5mm to 3mm in width.

The white stamens are inserted. The filaments measure 0.5 to 1mm in length while the linear anthers measure 3.5mm to 4.5mm in length. The pollen is pale yellow. The pistils measure 10mm to 12mm in length including the 1mm to 2mm conical stigma. The strong but sweetly scented flowers appear from June to early September.

Jasminum volubile’s fruit is an ellipsoidal to globose drupe. There are usually one or two drupes forming on a cymae. The drupes measure 9mm to 12mm in length by 9mm to 12mm in diameter. The glabrous, green drupes turn black on ripening. The ellipsoidal black seeds are glabrous, shiny and measure 5mm to 8mm in length by 4mm to 7mm in diameter.

Wildlife:

Jasminum volubile’s wildlife is unknown to the author.

Cultivation:

Jasminum volubile is a very beautiful addition to small, medium and large semi shaded gardens close to the coast or high in the mountains. It is an excellent plant in sub tropical, tropical or monsoonal gardens especially where the soils are deep or skeletal loams exist. As garden subjects it grows from 1.2 meters to 2 meters in height by 1.5 meters to 2 meters in diameter as a scandent sub-shrub but usually attempt to send out one or more climbing tendrils to 10 meters.

It responds very well to additional native fertilizers and frequent tip pruning. It is fast growing once established and are cold tolerant to temperatures as low as 3 degrees. Tip pruning can be regularly done to maintain a vigorous low growing shrub or dense ground cover. A row of Jasminum volubile planted as a small hedge will rival any of the exotic Jasminum and exotic creepers used in this manner.

It is most suitable for use on swimming pools fences, bright courtyards, besides pathways, rockeries, along sandy clay banks or along drive ways. They are slow to establish themselves outside the tropics but are worth the wait once they start to flower.

It makes great inclusions in temperate and tropical rain forests where their scent can linger well into the night. Jasminum volubile should be more widely planted along the coast as far south as Melbourne, Adelaide and even Perth on the west coast.

Propagation:

Seeds: Jasminum volubile require treatment before sowing. Pre-treat by placing the seeds into a glass of boiling water. Allow the water to cool and leave to soak for 10 hours. Seeds that have not swollen repeat the exercise.

Jasminum volubile seeds can be sown directly into a seed raising mix. Cover them with 5mm to 6mm of fine weed free mulch and keep moist. Place the tray in a warm sunny position. When the seedlings are 20mm to 30mm tall, prick them out and plant them into 50mm native tubes using a good organic mix.

Once the seedlings reach 100mm to 150mm in height they can be planted out into their permanent position.

Cuttings: Use 80mm to 120mm long hardened material when growing from cuttings from the present season’s growth. Take them in the warmer months of the year.

Remove half the leaves from the bottom section being careful not to tear the bark. Take a 10mm slice off the bark from the bottom of the cutting on one side.

1 Prepare the cutting mix by adding one third sharp clean river sand, one third peat and one third perlite. These ingredients are sterilize,

2 Select good material from non diseased plants,    

3 Select semi green stems for cuttings. Look for a stem with two or three nodes,

4 Place the cutting on a flat, hard surface, and make a clean cut down one side of the cutting at the base for 10mm with a sharp sterile knife or razor blade. – This scarification of the node will increase the chances of roots emerging from this spot. Now remove all but one or two the leaves, leaving the apex leaves in tact. If the leaves are very large in proportion to the stem, cut off the apical halves.

5 Fill a saucer with water, and place a little medium strength rooting hormone into another container like a milk bottle top. Dip the node end of the cutting into the water and then into the rooting hormone. Tap off any excess hormone,

6 Use a small dipple stick or old pencil to poke a hole into the soilless potting mix. Ensure the hole is slightly larger than the stem diameter and be careful not to wipe the rooting hormone off the cuttings base, place the cuttings in a pattern ensuring the cuttings are not touching each other,

7 I like to place the pots in Plastic bags to help maintain temperature and moisture. Place in a semi shaded place like under 50{98c9b985d4dc543f86c0cb8c6df3d397ea5754df614d759fdd5c1720a0a9cf2f} shade cloth.

8 When the cuttings have struck, open the bag to allow air circulation for a few days to a week,

9 Once hardened off remove the cuttings from the bag and allow to further hardening for a few more days,

10 Transplant into a good potting mix to grow on.

Fertilize using seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water on an alternate basis. Fertilize every two months until the plants are established then twice annually in early September or March to maintain health, vitality and better flowering.

Further Comments from Readers:

“Hi reader, it seems you use The Bible of Botany a lot. That’s great as we have great pleasure in bringing it to you! It’s a little awkward for us to ask, but our first aim is to purchase land approximately 1,600 hectares to link several parcels of N.P. into one at The Pinnacles NSW Australia, but we need your help. We’re not salespeople. We’re amateur botanists who have dedicated over 30 years to saving the environment in a practical way. We depend on donations to reach our goal. If you donate just $5, the price of your coffee this Sunday, We can help to keep the planet alive in a real way and continue to bring you regular updates and features on Australian plants all in one Botanical Bible. Any support is greatly appreciated. Thank you.”

In the spirit of reconciliation we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.

Juncus alexandri

Classification:

ClassLiliopsida

Order: Poales

Family: Juncaceae

Genus: From Juncus, which is Ancient Greek for a rush or Jingere, which is Latin for to tie or bind. It refers to plants, which thrive wet places with reed like foliage or in Latin It refers to the plants, which were used to tie or bind objects together.

Specie: Is named in honour of Alexander, but which Alexander is unknown to the author.

Sub species:

Common Name:

Distribution:

Juncus alexandri is widespread south from Lismore in far north eastern coastal New South Wales to Murrundindi in southern Victoria. It is mainly found on the Great Dividing Range.

https://avh.ala.org.au/occurrences/search?taxa=Juncus+alexandri#tab_mapView

Habitat Aspect Climate:

Juncus alexandri prefers full sun to light dappled shade. It grows in moist forest depressions, along seepage lines and wet rills. The altitude ranges from 50 meters ASL to 1600 meters ASL.

The temperatures range from minus 6 degrees in August to 40 degrees in January.

The rainfalls range from lows of 600mm to an average of 1600mm annually. This is of little consequence because the plants grow where there is permanent surface water or water drawn to the surface by capillary action through the soil and often where orographic precipitation frequently occurs.

Soil Requirements:

Juncus alexandri prefers to grow on better quality loams. The soils are usually derived from decomposed sandstones, granites, metamorphic rocks, brown basalts, black basalts. The soils pH ranges from 5.5pH to 6.5pH are preferred. It tolerates water logged soils often growing in periodic shallow water. Non saline soils to slightly saline soils are tolerated.

Height & Spread:

Wild Plants: 0.5m to 1.5m by 0.25m to 0.35m.

Characteristics: Juncus alexandri grows as a perennial, densely tufted annual that has deep green-blue to sea-green terete culms that measures 20mm to 1500mm in length by 1.6mm to 4mm in diameter. The glossy deep brown scaly rhizomes are short.The culms have 37 to 80 striations, with a continuous pith. The lax, abaxially cataphylls are yellow-brown to deep rusty-brown becoming black at the base, while the adaxially cataphylls are coppery to golden-brown and measure 7mm to 25mm in length.

The inflorescence are pseudolateral, diffuse and measure 30mm to 110mm in length withnumerous flowers. The flowers are loosely to densely clustered or rarely solitary. The lowest involucral bract measures 30mm to 300m in length and are shorter than to longer than the inflorescence. The straw-brown tepals have narrow to broad hyaline margins. The outer tepals measure 1.7mm to 2.6mm in length and are slightly longer than or equal in length to the inner tepals.

The 3 stamens are shorter than the outer tepals. The anthers measure 0.4mm to 1mm in length. The flowers appear from September to March.

The obovoid to ovoid or obtuse to broad-acute, capsules are equal in length to the outer tepals and are usually scarcely apiculate. The golden-brown capsules occasionally turn reddish-brown near apex.

Wildlife:

Juncus alexandri protects creek and stream banks from erosion and helps to settle particles out of cloudy water. Many frogs use the plants as a safe corridor in which to travel along and feed.

Cultivation:

Juncus alexandri is a beautiful clean native rush that is frequently overlooked by gardeners because of their weak, uninteresting form in pots or has a pre conception that looks weedy. It is suitable for small sunny water gardens close to the coast or inland in temperate, sub tropical areas, tropical or semi-arid zones especially where the soils have poor drainage or are continually water logged. As garden subjects it grows from 150mm to 220mm in height by 100mm meters to 200mm in diameter when grown in the open. They are fast growing and are cold tolerant to temperatures as low as minus 1 degree once established though some burning will occur. If this was to happen cut it back to just above the culms. It recovers very quickly to their former beauty.

They are most suitable for use around fish ponds and frog ponds in well-lit courtyards, besides pathways or rockeries. Mass plantings of 5 or more plants even in small areas really do the plants justification. Mass plantings are best done at 400mm to 600mm centers. Leave a space between the plants to avoid a clustered weedy look.

Propagation:

Seeds: Juncus alexandri require no treatment before sowing however the bog method is best suited to most species.

Juncus alexandri seeds can be sown directly into a seed raising mix. Cover them with 3mm to 5mm of fine weed free mulch and keep wet by placing the pot with the seeds into water. If a tray is used try lining the tray in plastic so that the water is retained around the seeds.  Place the tray in a warm sunny position and stand them in a larger tray of water. When the seedlings are 20mm to 30mm tall, prick them out and plant them into 50mm native tubes using a good organic mix.

Once the seedlings reach 100mm to 150mm in height they can be planted out into their permanent position.

Fertilize using Seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water and apply the liquid on an alternate basis. Fertilize every 2 months until the plants are well established then on an annual basis in September or March to maintain good health, vigour and better flowering.

Further Comments from Readers:

“Hi reader, it seems you use The Bible of Botany a lot. That’s great as we have great pleasure in bringing it to you! It’s a little awkward for us to ask, but our first aim is to purchase land approximately 1,600 hectares to link several parcels of N.P. into one at The Pinnacles NSW Australia, but we need your help. We’re not salespeople. We’re amateur botanists who have dedicated over 30 years to saving the environment in a practical way. We depend on donations to reach our goal. If you donate just $5, the price of your coffee this Sunday, We can help to keep the planet alive in a real way and continue to bring you regular updates and features on Australian plants all in one Botanical Bible. Any support is greatly appreciated. Thank you.”

In the spirit of reconciliation we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.

Juncus bufonius

Classification:

ClassLiliopsida

Order: Poales

Family: Juncaceae

Genus: From Juncus, which is Ancient Greek for a rush or Jingere, which is Latin for to tie or bind. It refers to plants, which thrive wet places with reed like foliage or in Latin It refers to the plants, which were used to tie or bind objects together.

Specie: From Bufonius, which is Latin for a toad. It refers to plants, which prefer wallum type habitats that are similar to those preferred by toads, cool and moist.

Sub species:

Common Name:

Distribution:

Juncus bufonius is widespread in the southern half of Australia in 2 distinct disjunct populations. The western populations are found west and south of a line from Dirk Hartog Island in central coastal Western Australia east to Beru Pool and south to Toolina Rockhole near Caiguna.

The eastern and central populations are found south and east of a line from Fraser Island in central coastal Queensland to Roma and south west to Meringur near Mildura, then north west to Trinity Well in Central South Australia near Lake Eyre west to Wynbring Rocks and south to Inila Rock Water near the coast.

Further north it is found in several isolated populations including Mintabie and Ernabella in South Australia, the MacDonnell Ranges in the Northern Territory, Injune, Herberton and Malanda in far north Queensland.

There is also an isolated population on Lord Howe Island.

https://avh.ala.org.au/occurrences/search?taxa=Juncus+bufonius#tab_mapView

Habitat Aspect Climate:

Juncus bufonius prefers full sun to light dappled shade. It grows on alluvial flats along creeks and streams around swamps or wallums. The altitude ranges from 5 meters ASL to 1300 meters ASL.

The temperatures range from minus 4 degrees in August to 40 degrees in January.

The rainfalls range from lows of 200mm to an average of 2600mm annually. This is of little consequence because the plants grow where there is permanent surface water or water drawn to the surface by capillary action through the soil.

Soil Requirements:

Juncus bufonius prefers to grow on light clays to medium clays. The soils are usually derived from shale, sandstones, granites, metamorphic rocks, brown basalts, black basalts or mudstones. Poorly drained podsolic soils are a common feature of the terrain and soil. The soils pH ranges from 4.5pH to 6pH are preferred. It tolerates water logged soils often growing in shallow water. Non saline soils to moderately saline soils are tolerated as are salt laden winds.

Height & Spread:

Wild Plants: 0.1m to 0.2m by 0.1m to 0.2m.

Characteristics: Juncus bufonius grows are densely tufted annuals that have deep green to sea-green terete culms and measure 2omm to 200mm in length by 0.4mm to 1mm in diameter. The glossy deep brown scaly rhizomes are short.Juncus bufonius’s culms are terete and measure 20mm to 200mm in length by 0.4mm to 1mm in diameter. The hard culms are a grass-green.

The basal and cauline leaves are shorter than the culms and measure 20mm to 150mm in length by 0.4mm to 1.2mm in width. The bases are clasping while the apexes are acute. The concolourous laminas are grass-green and glabrous. The laminas are flat or slightly canaliculate while the margins are entire. The leaf sheaths are usually pale yellow or at times are red-brown.

The inflorescences of Juncus bufonius are terminal, diffuse clusters of 4 to 60 heads. There are 2 to 4 individual flowers in a cluster. The spikes measure 20mm to 250mm in length and are usually shorter or equal to the inflorescence. The 2 or at times single involucral bracts measure 25mm to 170mm in length. The outer tepals measure 1.6mm to 2.5mm in length while the inner tepals measure 1.2mm to 2.2mm in length. The 3 stamens are shorter than the outer tepals while the anthers measure 0.3mm to 0.6mm. The flowers appear from mid-September to mid-February.

The 6 tepals are usually straw-brown or at times with reddish-brown bands beside the midrib and with broad hyaline margins. The outer tepals measure 4mm to 8mm in length while the inner tepals measure 3mm to 6mm in length.

The 3 or rarely 4 to 6 stamens measure 3mm to 6mm in length while the anthers measure 0.5mm to 1mm in length.

Juncus bufonius’s fruits are obovoidal to narrow ellipsoidal capsules have an apiculate to cuspidate apex. The capsules measure 2.5mm to 4.5mm in length by 1.4mm to 2.5mm in diameter. The capsules turn a golden brown to deep reddish-brown when ripe.

Wildlife:

Juncus bufonius protects creek and stream banks from erosion and helps to settle particles out of cloudy water. Many frogs use the plants as a safe corridor in which to travel along and feed.

Cultivation:

Juncus bufonius is a beautiful clean native rush that is frequently overlooked by gardeners because of their weak, uninteresting form in pots or has a pre conception that looks weedy. It is suitable for small sunny water gardens close to the coast or inland in temperate, sub tropical areas, tropical or semi-arid zones especially where the soils have poor drainage or are continually water logged. As garden subjects it grows from 150mm to 220mm in height by 100mm meters to 200mm in diameter when grown in the open. They are fast growing and are cold tolerant to temperatures as low as minus 1 degree once established though some burning will occur. If this was to happen cut it back to just above the culms. It recovers very quickly to their former beauty.

It is most suitable for use around large in ground fish ponds or frog wetlands in well-lit courtyards, besides pathways or rockeries. Mass plantings of 5 or more plants even in small areas really do the plants justification. Mass plantings are best done at 400mm to 600mm centers. Leave a space between the plants to avoid a clustered weedy look.

Propagation:

Seeds: Juncus bufonius require no treatment before sowing however the bog method is best suited to most species.

Juncus bufonius seeds can be sown directly into a seed raising mix. Cover them with 3mm to 5mm of fine weed free mulch and keep wet by placing the pot with the seeds into water. If a tray is used try lining the tray in plastic so that the water is retained around the seeds.  Place the tray in a warm sunny position and stand them in a larger tray of water. When the seedlings are 20mm to 30mm tall, prick them out and plant them into 50mm native tubes using a good organic mix.

Once the seedlings reach 100mm to 150mm in height they can be planted out into their permanent position.

Fertilize using Seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water and apply the liquid on an alternate basis. Fertilize every 2 months until the plants are well established then on an annual basis in September or March to maintain good health, vigour and better flowering.

Further Comments from Readers:

“Hi reader, it seems you use The Bible of Botany a lot. That’s great as we have great pleasure in bringing it to you! It’s a little awkward for us to ask, but our first aim is to purchase land approximately 1,600 hectares to link several parcels of N.P. into one at The Pinnacles NSW Australia, but we need your help. We’re not salespeople. We’re amateur botanists who have dedicated over 30 years to saving the environment in a practical way. We depend on donations to reach our goal. If you donate just $5, the price of your coffee this Sunday, We can help to keep the planet alive in a real way and continue to bring you regular updates and features on Australian plants all in one Botanical Bible. Any support is greatly appreciated. Thank you.”

In the spirit of reconciliation we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.

Juncus continuus

Classification:

ClassLiliopsida

Order: Poales

Family: Juncaceae

Genus: From Juncus, which is Ancient Greek for a rush or Jingere, which is Latin for to tie or bind. It refers to plants, which thrive wet places with reed like foliage or in Latin It refers to the plants, which were used to tie or bind objects together.

Specie: From Continuus, which is Latin for continuous, uninterrupted, successive. It refers to structures or organ, which are generally longer than other species in the genus. Here it refers to the culms which are solid that is have a white pith throughout.

Sub species:

Common Name:

Distribution:

Juncus continuus is found in several disjunct populations south from Mount Sturgeon and the Robertson River to Rosedale on the south east Gippsland Plain in Victoria. It is not found in the high country in the southern part of its range of southern New South Wales and Victoria. It is also found at Lake Moondarra, Mort River Bore and Barcaldine in north and western central Queensland.

It is found in central Australia bounded by Gill Pinnacle in eastern, central Western Australia to Maggie Springs near Uluru, the MacDonnell Ranges and Talipatta Gorge in the Northern Territory.

There is an isolated population on Lord Howe Island,

https://avh.ala.org.au/occurrences/search?taxa=Juncus+continuus#tab_mapView

Habitat Aspect Climate:

Juncus continuus prefers full sun to light dappled shade. It grows on wet sites and shallow depressions in open woodlands, open forests and heaths. The altitude ranges from 5 meters ASL to 1050 meters ASL.

The temperatures range from minus 5 degrees in August to 38 degrees in January.

The rainfalls range from lows of 300mm to an average of 2800mm annually. This is of little consequence because the plants grow where there is permanent surface water or water drawn to the surface by capillary action through the soil from underground streams.

Soil Requirements:

Juncus continuus prefers sandy soils, sandy loams to light gritty silts. The soils are usually derived from sandstones, granites and alluviums, alluvial screes or accumulated beach sands. The soils pH ranges from 4.5pH to 6.5pH are preferred. It tolerates water logged soils. Non saline soils to moderately saline soils are tolerated.

Height & Spread:

Wild Plants: 0.35m to 1.15m by 0.4m to 1m.

Characteristics:

Juncus continuus grows in small, dense tufts. The culms measure 350mm to 1150mm in length by 1.2mm to 3mm in diameter. There are 35 to 80 striations on the culms. The pith is usually continuous or rarely shortly interrupted on the lower sections. The soft culms are grass-green to mid sea-green. They have short glossy deep brown scaly rhizomes.

The cataphylls surround the base of the culms and have acute to obtuse apexes. The lax cataphylls are pale yellow-fawn to deep yellow-brown externally and silvery-fawn internally. They measure 80mm to140m in length

The inflorescences of Juncus continuus is a pseudo lateral diffuse spike. The flowers are numerous on what appears to be a loosely clustered second. The lowest involucral bract is the longest and measures 40mm to 300mm in length usually 50mm to 80mm in length. The elliptical tepals are straw-brown, often with a deep yellowish-brown band each side of midrib and with narrow to broad hyaline margins. The outer tepals measure 1.5mm to 2.2mm in length while the inner tepals measure 1.2mm to 2.2mm in length.

The 3 stamens measure 1.2mm to 2mm in length while the anthers usually measure 0.4mm to 0.7mm in length but can grow to 1mm in length. The flowers appear from mid-September to mid-February.

Juncus continuus’s fruits are ellipsoidal to ovoidal capsules. The capsules measure 1.6mm to 2.4mm in length by 1.2mm to 1.6mm in diameter with obtuse to obtuse apiculate apexes. The capsules turn a golden-brown when ripe. The seeds are oval and black.

Wildlife:

Juncus continuus protects the banks of billabongs, lagoons, dams, and river deltas from erosion, supports small seed eating birds with food and also is the nesting haunts for Blue wrens, Red back Wren and the Grass wren. Many frogs use the plants as a safe corridor in which to travel along and feed.

Cultivation:

Juncus continuus is a beautiful clean native rushes that is frequently overlooked by gardeners because of their slow creeping habit. It is suitable for small, medium and large sunny gardens close to the coast or inland in temperate sub tropical areas, tropical or semi-arid zones especially where the soils have poor drainage or are continually water logged. As garden subjects it will grow very erect and rigid. It grows from 0.8 meter to 1.2 meters high by 0.8 meters to 1 meter in diameter when grown in the open.

It is fast growing and are cold tolerant to temperatures as low as minus 4 degrees once established though some burning will occur. If this was to happen cut it back to just above the culms and fertilize. It recovers very quickly to their former beauty.

It is most suitable for use around swimming pools, bright courtyards, besides pathways, rockeries, along sandy clay banks or along drive ways or adjacent to natural heath gardens where water is a problem. Mass plantings of 3 to 5 plants evenly spaced with a mass planting between of Hibbertia really highlight both species and look tremendous when the Hibbertia are in flower.

If it is placed around a pool, courtyards or other confined spaces then plant them in small groups or scatter plant them for a more informal natural look against walls to help soften them. Using rocks and small boulders can make the pool or any water feature appear like an oasis. The leaves and flowers can make a great start for the miniature wallum, mangrove or swamp setting.

In the right position and grown correctly Juncus continuus is well suited to being the base plant in a medium to large heath garden. Heath lands are almost always flat or have a slight rise. Taller heaths are better placed on the lower side of a path so that you can still look over the tallest plants. On flats ground the flowers will be at around eye level which is very striking. Place them back from the path as they are rather tall and will look rather weedy in the foreground. Make the heath garden path narrow so you have to feel the plants as you walk through the garden bed. This gives an extra dimension which many people forget about when designing heath gardens. Plants must be planted close together and be short so you can see over the tallest ones with the exception of one or two plants at the most. These will be feature plants. The idea is to achieve a feeling of expansive flatness. This can be achieved with using Juncus continuus’s vertical lines against the smaller horizontal growth of other heath plants. Mix them with other smaller shrubs so none of them dominate the scene but blend in to give a mosaic of foliage colours that you oversee. Here I immediately think of Actinotis helianthi, Melaleuca pearsonii or other sub shrubs like Chloanthes parviflora, Pelargonium austral or Pelargonium inodorum. Even Hibiscus diversifolia could be pruned and used in the mid ground. Glycyrrhiza acanthocarpa would be something entirely different next to a path where you can walk by and pick a leaf to crush and enjoy the aroma of licorice. Leave spaces between the plants to avoid a clustered weedy look.

Propagation:

Seeds: Juncus continuus require no treatment before sowing however the bog method is best suited to most species.

Juncus continuus seeds can be sown directly into a seed raising mix. Cover them with 3mm to 5mm of fine weed free mulch and keep wet by placing the pot with the seeds into water. If a tray is used try lining the tray in plastic so that the water is retained around the seeds.  Place the tray in a warm sunny position and stand them in a larger tray of water. When the seedlings are 20mm to 30mm tall, prick them out and plant them into 50mm native tubes using a good organic mix.

Once the seedlings reach 100mm to 150mm in height they can be planted out into their permanent position.

Fertilize using Seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water and apply the liquid on an alternate basis. Fertilize every 2 months until the plants are well established then on an annual basis in September or March to maintain good health, vigour and better flowering.

Division: When growing from divisions:

1. Do not water before you start.

2. Cut back foliage to around 70mm to 100mm in length,

3. Use a garden fork or shovel to dig around the clump you want to divide (about 100mm to 150mm greater circumference than the bulbs),

4. Lift the whole of the root ball out of the ground,

5. Remove the soil by shaking. If the soil is hard allow to sit in a container of water for 15 minutes to half an hour. repeat the shaking in the water and hose off excess soil,

6. Once the bulbs can be seen clearly it is easier to pry and split the clump apart.

7. Leave a small number of bulbs in each new clump,

8. Replant in the prepared bed using half a hand full of blood and bone in the hole and mix,

9. Level off at the same level the bulbs were at the start.

10. Water regularly and feed fortnightly until the plants have re-established themselves.

Fertilize using Seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water and apply the liquid on an alternate basis. Fertilize every 2 months until the plants are well established then on an annual basis in September or March to maintain good health, vigour and better flowering.

Further Comments from Readers:

“Hi reader, it seems you use The Bible of Botany a lot. That’s great as we have great pleasure in bringing it to you! It’s a little awkward for us to ask, but our first aim is to purchase land approximately 1,600 hectares to link several parcels of N.P. into one at The Pinnacles NSW Australia, but we need your help. We’re not salespeople. We’re amateur botanists who have dedicated over 30 years to saving the environment in a practical way. We depend on donations to reach our goal. If you donate just $5, the price of your coffee this Sunday, We can help to keep the planet alive in a real way and continue to bring you regular updates and features on Australian plants all in one Botanical Bible. Any support is greatly appreciated. Thank you.”

In the spirit of reconciliation we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.

Nannophya dalei inhabits wet swampy areas similar to the habitats of Juncus kraussii.

Juncus kraussii

Classification:

ClassLiliopsida

Order: Poales

Family: Juncaceae

Genus: From Juncus, which is Ancient Greek for a rush or Jingere, which is Latin for to tie or bind. It refers to plants, which thrive wet places with reed like foliage or in Latin It refers to the plants, which were used to tie or bind objects together.

Specie: Is named in honour of Christian Ferdinand Friedrich Krauss; 1812-1890, who was a German botanist, naturalist and mineralogist who studied extensively the flora of South Africa.

Sub species:

Common Name:

Distribution:

Juncus kraussii is found in 2 disjunct populations on the west coast and down the center and along the east coast. The west coast plants are found south from Carnarvon on the central western coast to Israelite Bay on the Esperance Coastal Plains on the southern coast. It is found along many of the Rivers in the south east corner, further north on the Fortescue River and further east at Twilight Cove in the Great Australia Bite.

On the east coast it is found on the coastal strip from Cape Palmerston in coastal central Queensland to Mount Misery on the western side of Eyre Peninsular in Southern South Australia. It is also found from Dalhousie in the Northern Territory south to Port Augusta and to Lake Alexandrina and Kangaroo Island in South Australia.

In the south of the Northern Territory it is found in an area bounded by the Finke River, Bagots Creek and Illamurta Springs all around or in the MacDonnell Ranges.

It also circumnavigates the mainland of Tasmania including the Bass Straight Islands.

https://avh.ala.org.au/occurrences/search?taxa=Juncus+kraussii#tab_mapView

Habitat Aspect Climate:

Juncus kraussii prefers full sun to light dappled shade. It is often the dominant specie in saline swamps and wallums as well as brackish estuaries and wetlands. The altitude ranges from 1 meter ASL to 950 meters ASL.

The temperatures range from minus 3 degrees in August to 40 degrees in January.

The rainfalls range from lows of 150mm to an average of 2000mm annually. This is of little consequence because the plants grow where there is permanent surface water.

Soil Requirements:

Juncus kraussii usually prefers very fertile or at times low nutrient sands, peaty sands, gritty light silts or alluvial silts and screes. The soils are usually derived from sandstones, granites, alluvial deposits or accumulated sands. Poorly drained podsolic soils are a common feature of the terrain and soil. The soils pH ranges from 4.5pH to 7.5pH. It tolerates water logged soils. Non saline soils to extremely saline soils are tolerated as are salt laden winds.

Height & Spread:

Wild Plants: 0.4m to 1.5m by 0.5m to 1m.

Characteristics: Juncus kraussii is a strong growing rhizomatous perennial which grows in densely tuft clumps. The terete culms measure 400mm to 1500mm in length by 1.8mm to 4.5mm in diameter. The hard culms are a dull mid blue-green to sea-green. They have short, thick glossy deep brown scaly rhizomes.

Juncus kraussii’s basal leaves are terete with a pungent apex and measure 400mm to 1200mm in length by 2.5mm to 5mm in width. The sheaths are golden-brown on both surfaces.

The inflorescences of Juncus kraussii are terminal or pseudo lateral spikes that are fused together for 40mm to 200mm. There are usually 4 to 6 individual flowers to a cluster with 15 to 50 clusters on a spike. The single involucral bract measures 30mm to 40mm in length. The tepals are straw-brown to reddish-brown. The outer tepals measure 1.9mm to 3.1mm in length while the inner tepals measure 1.8mm to 3mm in length. The inner tepals have narrow hyaline margins.

The 3 to 6 or usually 3 or 6 stamens measure 1.5mm to 2.5mm in length and are shorter than the tepals while the anthers measure 0.5mm to 1mm. The flowers appear from mid-September to mid-February.

Juncus kraussii’s fruits are narrow ellipsoidal capsules with acute to acuminate apexes. The capsules measure 1.9mm to 3.1mm in length by 1mm to 1.6mm in diameter and equal the outer tepals. The capsules turn a golden-brown, deep reddish-brown to almost black when ripe. The seeds are oval and black.

Wildlife:

Juncus kraussii protects the banks of rivers, river deltas and the landward side of mangrove swamps from erosion. Plants are usually always infested with large numbers of spiders, and other mosquito devouring insects.

Cultivation:

Juncus kraussii is a beautiful clean native rush that is frequently overlooked by gardeners near the coast who suffer from tidal surges and high water tables. It is suitable for small, medium and large sunny gardens close to the coast and could certainly be tried further inland around salt lakes. As garden subjects they will grow very erect and rigid. It will grow from 1 meter to 1.5 meters in height by 0.8 meters to 1 meter in diameter when grown in the open. They are fast growing and are cold tolerant to temperatures as low as minus 2 degrees once established though some discolouring will occur. If this was to happen cut it back to just above the culms and fertilize. It recovers very quickly to their former beauty.

It is most suitable for use around salt swimming pools, bright courtyards, besides pathways, rockeries, along sandy clay banks or along drive ways or adjacent to natural heath gardens where water is a problem. Mass plantings of 5 or more plants even in small areas; really do the plants justification especially when they are in flower. Medium to large fish or frog ponds will benefit from Juncus saraphorus.

If it is placed around a pool, courtyards or other confined spaces then plant them in small groups or scatter plant them for a more informal natural look against walls to help soften them. Using rocks and small boulders can make the pool or any water feature appear like an oasis. Leave spaces between the plants to avoid a clustered weedy look.

The culms are often used overseas in floral arrangements to great effect.

Propagation:

Seeds: Juncus kraussii require no treatment before sowing however the bog method is best suited to most species.

Juncus continuus seeds can be sown directly into a seed raising mix. Cover them with 3mm to 5mm of fine weed free mulch and keep wet by placing the pot with the seeds into water. If a tray is used try lining the tray in plastic so that the water is retained around the seeds.  Place the tray in a warm sunny position and stand them in a larger tray of water. When the seedlings are 20mm to 30mm tall, prick them out and plant them into 50mm native tubes using a good organic mix.

Once the seedlings reach 100mm to 150mm in height they can be planted out into their permanent position.

Fertilize using Seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water and apply the liquid on an alternate basis. Fertilize every 2 months until the plants are well established then on an annual basis in September or March to maintain good health, vigour and better flowering.

Division: When growing from divisions:

1. Do not water before you start.

2. Cut back foliage to around 70mm to 100mm in length,

3. Use a garden fork or shovel to dig around the clump you want to divide (about 100mm to 150mm greater circumference than the bulbs),

4. Lift the whole of the root ball out of the ground,

5. Remove the soil by shaking. If the soil is hard allow to sit in a container of water for 15 minutes to half an hour. repeat the shaking in the water and hose off excess soil,

6. Once the bulbs can be seen clearly it is easier to pry and split the clump apart.

7. Leave a small number of bulbs in each new clump,

8. Replant in the prepared bed using half a hand full of blood and bone in the hole and mix,

9. Level off at the same level the bulbs were at the start.

10. Water regularly and feed fortnightly until the plants have re-established themselves.

Fertilize using Seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water and apply the liquid on an alternate basis. Fertilize every 2 months until the plants are well established then on an annual basis in September or March to maintain good health, vigour and better flowering.

Further Comments from Readers:

“Hi reader, it seems you use The Bible of Botany a lot. That’s great as we have great pleasure in bringing it to you! It’s a little awkward for us to ask, but our first aim is to purchase land approximately 1,600 hectares to link several parcels of N.P. into one at The Pinnacles NSW Australia, but we need your help. We’re not salespeople. We’re amateur botanists who have dedicated over 30 years to saving the environment in a practical way. We depend on donations to reach our goal. If you donate just $5, the price of your coffee this Sunday, We can help to keep the planet alive in a real way and continue to bring you regular updates and features on Australian plants all in one Botanical Bible. Any support is greatly appreciated. Thank you.”

In the spirit of reconciliation we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.

Juncus mollis

Classification:

ClassLiliopsida

Order: Poales

Family: Juncaceae

Genus: From Juncus, which is Ancient Greek for a rush or Jingere, which is Latin for to tie or bind. It refers to plants, which thrive wet places with reed like foliage or in Latin It refers to the plants, which were used to tie or bind objects together.

Specie: From Mollis, which is Latin for softly hairy and supple. It usually refers to leaves or phyllodes, which have short, soft white hairs on a supple lamina.

Sub species:

Common Name:

Distribution:

Juncus mollis is found mainly on and east of the Great Dividing Range to the coast. It is found south from Nambour in Queensland to Mt Dromedary in southern coastal New South Wales.

https://avh.ala.org.au/occurrences/search?taxa=Juncus+mollis#tab_mapView

Habitat Aspect Climate:

Juncus mollis prefers full sun to light dappled shade. It grows in slightly brackish to fresh seasonally dry swamps, wallums and is particularly common in coastal Melaleuca swamps. The altitude ranges from 2 meters ASL to 200 meters ASL.

The temperatures range from minus 2 degree in August to 39 degrees in January.

The rainfalls range from lows of 1200mm to an average of 2000mm annually. This is of little consequence because the plants grow where there is permanent surface water or water drawn to the surface by capillary action through the soil.

Soil Requirements:

Juncus mollis prefers better quality sands, light clays to medium clays. The soils are usually derived from sandstones, granites, metamorphic rocks, black basalts, alluvial silts or accumulated sands. The soils pH ranges from 5pH to 6pH are preferred. It tolerates water logged soils. Non saline soils to very saline soils are tolerated as are salt laden winds.

Height & Spread:

Wild Plants: 0.8m to 1.5m by 0.5m to 1m.

Characteristics: Juncus mollis a strongly rhizomatous perennial. Juncus mollis’s terete culms measure 850mm to 1450mm in length by 2.1mm to 4mm in diameter. The soft culms are a dull pale blue-green to sea-green. They have 38 to 70 striations while the center pith is white and is profusely interrupted. They have a short glossy deep brown scaly rhizome.

The tight cataphylls measure 140mm to 270mm in length. The cataphylls are yellowish-brown to pinkish-brown and are black at the base externally while they are silvery to coppery-pink internally.

The inflorescences of Juncus mollis are pseudo lateral spikes that are diffused and measure 70mm to 150mm in length. The numerous flowers are scattered along the racemes. The lowest involucral bract measures 150 to 300mm in length and is longer than the inflorescence. The tepals are straw-brown to lemon-yellow, with broad hyaline margins. The outer tepals measure 1.7mm to 2.2mm in length while the inner tepals measure 1.5mm to 2.2mm in length.

There are usually 3 or rarely 4 to 6 lemon-yellow stamens which are shorter than the outer tepals and measure 1.5mm to 2mm in length while the anthers measure 0.4mm to 0.7mm in length.

Juncus mollis’s fruits are ovoidal to obloidal capsules. The capsules have an obtuse apex with a blunt apiculate tip and measure 1.6mm to 2.4mm in length by 1.4mm to 2.2mm in diameter. The capsules turn mid golden-brown to deep golden–brown when ripe.

Wildlife:

Juncus mollis protects the banks on estuarial creeks and streams from erosion, supports small seed eating birds with food and also is the nesting haunts for Little Grebes (Cygnus atratus), Red back Wren (Malurus melanocephalus) and many insects that use the plants as a safe corridor in which to travel along and feed. Many water birds will use the culms as nesting material while the Black Swan (Tachybaptus ruficollis) will also graze on young shoots.

Cultivation:

Juncus mollis is a beautiful clean native rush that is frequently overlooked by gardeners because of their weedy appearance. It is suitable for small, medium and large sunny gardens close to the coast or inland in temperate sub tropical areas, tropical or semi-arid zones especially where the soils have poor drainage or are continually water logged.

As garden subjects it will grow very erect and rigid from 1 meter to 1.3 meters high by 0.8 meters to 1 meter in diameter when grown in the open. It is fast growing and are cold tolerant to temperatures as low as minus 2 degrees once established though some discolouring will occur. If this was to happen cut it back to just above the culms and fertilize. It recovers very quickly to its former beauty. Leave spaces between the plants to avoid a clustered weedy look.

It is most suitable for use around swimming pools, large fish ponds bright courtyards, besides pathways, rockeries, along sandy clay banks or along drive ways or adjacent to natural heath gardens where water is a problem. Mass plantings of 5 or more plants even in small areas; really do the plants justification especially when it is in flower.

It looks good at the base of trees like Melaleuca quinquenervia that are growing in water or wet soggy ground where many plants won’t grow.

Propagation:

Seeds: Juncus mollis require no treatment before sowing however the bog method is best suited to most species.

Juncus mollis seeds can be sown directly into a seed raising mix. Cover them with 3mm to 5mm of fine weed free mulch and keep wet by placing the pot with the seeds into water. If a tray is used try lining the tray in plastic so that the water is retained around the seeds.  Place the tray in a warm sunny position and stand them in a larger tray of water. When the seedlings are 20mm to 30mm tall, prick them out and plant them into 50mm native tubes using a good organic mix.

Once the seedlings reach 100mm to 150mm in height they can be planted out into their permanent position.

Fertilize using Seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water and apply the liquid on an alternate basis. Fertilize every 2 months until the plants are well established then on an annual basis in September or March to maintain good health, vigour and better flowering.

Division: When growing from divisions:

1. Do not water before you start.

2. Cut back foliage to around 70mm to 100mm in length,

3. Use a garden fork or shovel to dig around the clump you want to divide,

4. Lift the whole of the root ball out of the ground,

5. Remove the soil by shaking. If the soil is hard allow to sit in a container of water for 15 minutes to half an hour. Repeat the shaking in the water and hose off excess soil,

6. Once the rhizomes can be seen clearly it is easier to pry and split the clump into several smaller clumps.

7. Replant in the prepared bed using half a hand full of blood and bone in the hole and mix,

8. Level off at the same level the bulbs were at the start.

9. Water regularly and feed fortnightly until the plants have re-established themselves.

Fertilize using Seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water and apply the liquid on an alternate basis. Fertilize every 2 months until the plants are well established then on an annual basis in September or March to maintain good health, vigour and better flowering.

Further Comments from Readers:

“Hi reader, it seems you use The Bible of Botany a lot. That’s great as we have great pleasure in bringing it to you! It’s a little awkward for us to ask, but our first aim is to purchase land approximately 1,600 hectares to link several parcels of N.P. into one at The Pinnacles NSW Australia, but we need your help. We’re not salespeople. We’re amateur botanists who have dedicated over 30 years to saving the environment in a practical way. We depend on donations to reach our goal. If you donate just $5, the price of your coffee this Sunday, We can help to keep the planet alive in a real way and continue to bring you regular updates and features on Australian plants all in one Botanical Bible. Any support is greatly appreciated. Thank you.”

In the spirit of reconciliation we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.

Juncus planifolius

Classification:

ClassLiliopsida

Order: Poales

Family: Juncaceae

Genus: From Juncus, which is Ancient Greek for a rush or Jingere, which is Latin for to tie or bind. It refers to plants, which thrive wet places with reed like foliage or in Latin It refers to the plants, which were used to tie or bind objects together.

Specie: From Plānum, which is Latin for flat or level and Folium, which is Latin for foliage. It refers to the laminas, which are flat, without folds, pleats or undulations.

Sub species:

Common Name:

Distribution:

Juncus planifolius is widespread in the southern half of the continent in 3 distinct disjunct populations. In the west it is found south from Gin Gin on the central southern coast to Esperance Plains near Albury. It is usually found within 100 kilometres of the coast and further north Kalbarri.

In South Australia it is bounded by Clare to Lake Alexandrina to the coast including Kangaroo Island with a population further north in the Alligator Gorge on Alligator Creek.

In the east it is found east and south of a line from Mount Coolum in southern Queensland to Shell Pit near Nova Creina in south eastern South Australia, including the Bass Straight Island and most of the Tasmanian mainland except for the higher altitudes. It is also found further north in Queensland from Jullaten near Mareba, Carnarvon National Park, Blackdown Tablelands National Park and Kroombit Creek Headwaters.

https://avh.ala.org.au/occurrences/search?taxa=Juncus+planifolius#tab_mapView

Habitat Aspect Climate:

Juncus planifolius prefers full sun to light dappled shade. It grows on wet shallow depressions, swamps, wallums and creek flats in open forests, open woodlands and grasslands. The altitude ranges from 5 meters ASL to 900 meters ASL.

The temperatures range from minus 4 degrees in August to 40 degrees in January.

The rainfalls range from lows of 350mm to an average of 2800mm annually. This is of little consequence in the lower rainfall areas as the plants grow where there is permanent surface water or water drawn to the surface by capillary action through the soil.

Soil Requirements:

Juncus planifolius prefers to grow on course or fine sands, peaty sands, sandy loams to medium clays. The soils are usually derived from sandstones, granites, alluvial silts or accumulated sands or at times metamorphic rocks and black basalts. The soils pH ranges from 5pH to 7pH are preferred. It tolerates water logged soils and often grows in shallow water for several months of the year or where the water tables are just below the surface. Non saline soils to moderately saline soils are tolerated as are salt laden winds.

Height & Spread:

Wild Plants: 0.1m to 0.6m by 0.2m to 0.7m.

Characteristics:

Juncus planifolius grows as an annual or perennial tufted rush often with short vertical rhizomes. Its culms are usually strongly compressed or at times almost terete. The culms measure 55mm to 600mm in length by 1mm to 2mm or at times to 3mm in diameter. The hard culms are a dull pale blue-green to sea-green.

The basal leaves are usually shorter than the culms or at times equal in length to the culms and measure 50mm to 600mm in length by 1.5mm to 11mm in width. The concolourous deep green to sea-green leaves are flat. The auricles are absent while the sheath is pale brown and often tinged pink to pinkish-red.

The inflorescences of Juncus planifolius are pseudo lateral, loosely formed panicles that are diffused or are in small cluster heads. The inflorescences measure from 20mm to 120mm in length. The flowers are numerous at the end of small branchlets. There are usually 3 to 20 clusters or at times up to 70 clusters on an individual inflorescence with 5 to 30 individual flowers in each cluster. The single involucral bract measures 15 to 100mm in length. The tepals are reddish-brown often paler near the midrib or at times all pale yellow-fawn with narrow hyaline margins. The outer tepals measure 1.8mm to 2.5mm in length while the inner tepals are usually shorter than outer tepals.

The 3 stamens measure 1.5mm to 2.2mm in length and are shorter than the outer tepals while the anthers measure 0.3mm to 0.5mm in length. The flowers appear from mid-September to mid-February.

Juncus planifolius’s fruits are ellipsoidal to narrow obloidal capsules with an obtuse to broad acute apiculate apex. The capsules measure 2mm to 2.8mm in length by 1.2mm to 1.5mm in diameter. The capsules turn golden-brown to deep reddish-brown or maroon-brown when ripe.

Wildlife:

Juncus planifolius protects the banks on estuarial creeks and streams from erosion, supports small seed eating birds with food and also is the nesting haunts for Little Grebes (Cygnus atratus), Red back Wren and many insects that use the plants as a safe corridor in which to travel along and feed. Many water birds will use the culms as nesting material while the Black Swan (Tachybaptus ruficollis) will also graze on young shoots.

Cultivation:

Juncus planifolius are beautiful clean native rushes that are frequently overlooked by gardeners because of their weedy appearance. It is suitable for small, medium and large sunny gardens close to the coast or inland in temperate sub tropical areas, tropical or semi-arid zones especially where the soils have poor drainage or are continually water logged. As garden subjects it grows very erect and rigid. It grows from 300mmto 650mm in height by 350mm to 700mm meter in diameter when grown in the open. It is fast growing and is cold tolerant to temperatures as low as minus 2 degrees once established though some discolouring will occur. If this was to happen cut it back to just above the culms and fertilize. It recovers very quickly to their former beauty.

It is most suitable for use around swimming pools, medium to large fish ponds and larger frog ponds, bright courtyards, besides pathways, rockeries, along sandy clay banks or along drive ways or adjacent to natural heath gardens where water is a problem. Mass plantings of 5 or more plants even in small areas, really does the plants justification especially when they are in flower.

It is well suited to flat heavy silty soils that are water logged for extended periods throughout the year. Here it can be planted sparsely with other smaller sub shrubs or herbs with a horizontal growth leaving bare patches of ground between each plant so none of them dominate the scene but blend in to give a mosaic of foliage, colour and patterns. Here I immediately think of Actinotis helianthi, Chloanthes parviflora, Pelargonium australe, Pelargonium inodorum, Hardenbergia comptoniana, Hardenbergia violacea with Hibbertia scandens trimmed to a small round clump or Kunzea capitata to add great leaf variation, flower colour flowering period and texture. Be careful not to over plant so leave spaces between the plants to avoid a clustered weedy look.

It looks good at the base of trees like Melaleuca quinquenervia that are growing in water or wet soggy ground where many plants won’t grow.

Propagation:

Seeds: Juncus planifolius require treatment before sowing. Pre-treat by placing the seeds into a glass of hot water. Allow the water to cool and leave to soak for 10 hours. Seeds that have not swollen repeat the exercise.

Juncus planifolius seeds can be sown directly into a seed raising mix. Cover them with 5mm to 6mm of fine weed free mulch and keep moist. Place the tray in a warm sunny position. When the seedlings are 20mm to 30mm tall, prick them out and plant them into 50mm native tubes using a good organic mix.

Once the seedlings reach 100mm to 150mm in height they can be planted out into their permanent position.

Division: When growing from divisions:

1. Do not water before you start.

2. Cut back foliage to around 70mm to 100mm in length,

3. Use a garden fork or shovel to dig around the clump you want to divide,

4. Lift the whole of the root ball out of the ground,

5. Remove the soil by shaking. If the soil is hard allow to sit in a container of water for 15 minutes to half an hour. Repeat the shaking in the water and hose off excess soil,

6. Once the rhizomes can be seen clearly it is easier to pry and split the clump into several smaller clumps.

7. Replant in the prepared bed using half a hand full of blood and bone in the hole and mix,

8. Level off at the same level the bulbs were at the start.

9. Water regularly and feed fortnightly until the plants have re-established themselves.

Fertilize using Seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water and apply the liquid on an alternate basis. Fertilize every 2 months until the plants are well established then on an annual basis in September or March to maintain good health, vigour and better flowering.

Further Comments from Readers:

“Hi reader, it seems you use The Bible of Botany a lot. That’s great as we have great pleasure in bringing it to you! It’s a little awkward for us to ask, but our first aim is to purchase land approximately 1,600 hectares to link several parcels of N.P. into one at The Pinnacles NSW Australia, but we need your help. We’re not salespeople. We’re amateur botanists who have dedicated over 30 years to saving the environment in a practical way. We depend on donations to reach our goal. If you donate just $5, the price of your coffee this Sunday, We can help to keep the planet alive in a real way and continue to bring you regular updates and features on Australian plants all in one Botanical Bible. Any support is greatly appreciated. Thank you.”

In the spirit of reconciliation we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.

Juncus polyanthemus

Classification:

ClassLiliopsida

Order: Poales

Family: Juncaceae

Genus: From Juncus, which is Ancient Greek for a rush or Jingere, which is Latin for to tie or bind. It refers to plants, which thrive wet places with reed like foliage or in Latin It refers to the plants, which were used to tie or bind objects together.

Specie: From Plānum, which is Latin for flat or level and Folium, which is Latin for foliage. It refers to the laminas, which are flat, without folds, pleats or undulations.

Sub species:

Common Name:

Distribution:

Juncus polyanthemus is found in several disjunct populations throughout Australia. The largest populations are found on the Western Slopes, on and east of the Great Dividing Range south from The Endeavour River to Bundee Swamp near Nowra in southern coastal New South Wales.

There are several isolated populations found near Lake Mary Kathleen, Mount Isa and Tunga Springs in the far west, Bingara west of Eulo in Queensland, Mount Evelyn in the Yarra Ranges to Preston in Victoria, Mount Ultim and west of Alice Springs in the Northern Territory and Benger Swamp in Western Australia.

https://avh.ala.org.au/occurrences/search?taxa=Juncus+polyanthemus#tab_mapView

Habitat Aspect Climate:

Juncus polyanthemus prefers full sun to light dappled shade. It grows on wet ground in swamps, wallums or shallow ephemeral depressions. The altitude ranges from 2 meters ASL to 700 meters ASL.

The temperatures range from minus 2 degrees in August to 40 degrees in January.

The rainfalls range from lows of 200mm to an average of 2800mm annually. This is of little consequence because the plants grow where there is permanent surface water or water drawn to the surface by capillary action through the soil.

Soil Requirements:

Juncus polyanthemus prefers to grow on low nutrient light clays to medium clays. The soils are usually derived from shale, sandstones, granites, metamorphic rocks, brown basalts, black basalts or mudstones. Poorly drained podsolic soils are a common feature of the terrain and soil. The soils pH ranges from 4.5pH to 6pH are preferred. It tolerates seasonal water logged soils. Non saline soils to moderately saline soils are tolerated as are salt laden winds.

Height & Spread:

Wild Plants: 0.8m to 1.4m by 1.5m to 3m.

Characteristics:

Juncus polyanthemus grows from densely packed clumps on short thick rhizomes. Juncus polyanthemus’s culms are terete and usually measure 650mm to 1200mm in length by 2mm to 4.5mm in diameter. The soft culms are a dull deep grey-green to sea-green. It has 40 to 100 striations while the center pith is white and interrupted on the basal two thirds and often continuous on the apical third. It has a short glossy deep brown scaly rhizome.

The lax cataphylls measure 110mm to 270mm in length. The cataphylls are golden-brown to deep pinkish-brown at base externally deep golden-brown to coppery-orange internally

The inflorescences of Juncus polyanthemus are pseudo lateral spikes that are diffused and measure 30mm to 100mm in length. The numerous flowers are usually solitary or at times are loose clusters. The lowest involucral bract measures 100 to 320mm in length and is longer than the inflorescence. The tepals are straw-brown, with broad hyaline margins. The outer tepals measure 1.7mm to 2.3mm in length and are longer than or equal to the inner tepals.

The usually 3 or at times 6 or rarely 4 or 5 stamens measure 1.5mm to 2.1mm and are shorter than the outer tepals while the anthers measure 0.4mm to 0.7mm in length.

Juncus polyanthemus’s fruits are ellipsoidal capsules with an obtuse or obtuse with a small apiculate apex. The capsules measure 2mm to 2.5mm in length by 1.5mm to 1.8mm in diameter. The capsules turn a golden-brown when ripe.

Wildlife:

Juncus polyanthemus protects the banks on estuarial creeks and streams from erosion, supports small seed eating birds with food and also is the nesting haunts for Little Grebes (Cygnus atratus), Red back Wren and many insects that use the plants as a safe corridor in which to travel along and feed. Many water birds will use the culms as nesting material while the Black Swan (Tachybaptus ruficollis) will also graze on young shoots.

Cultivation:

Juncus polyanthemus is a beautiful clean native rushes that is frequently overlooked by gardeners because of their weedy appearance. It is suitable for medium to large sunny gardens close to the coast or inland in temperate sub tropical areas, tropical or semi-arid zones especially where the soils have poor drainage or are continually water logged. As garden subjects is grows very erect and rigid. It grows from 1000mmto 1200mm in height by 1000mm to 3000mm meter in diameter when grown in the open. It is fast growing and are cold tolerant to temperatures as low as minus 2 degrees once established though some discolouring will occur. If this was to happen cut it back to just above the culms and fertilize. It recovers very quickly to their former beauty.

It is most suitable for use around swimming pools, large fish ponds and larger frog ponds, bright courtyards, besides pathways, rockeries, along sandy clay banks or along drive ways or adjacent to natural heath gardens where water is a problem. Mass plantings of 5 or more plants even in small areas; really do the plants justification especially when they are in flower.

It is well suited to flat heavy silty soils that are water logged for extended periods throughout the year. Here it can be planted sparsely with other smaller sub shrubs or herbs with a horizontal growth leaving bare patches of ground between each plant so none of them dominate the scene but blend in to give a mosaic of foliage, colour and patterns. Here I immediately think of Actinotis helianthi, Chloanthes parviflora, Pelargonium australe, Pelargonium inodorum. Hardenbergia comptoniana or Hardenbergia violacea with Hibbertia scandens trimmed to a small round clump or Kunzea capitata all add great variation in leaf, flower colour flowering period and texture. Be careful not to over plant so leave spaces between the plants to avoid a clustered weedy look.

It looks good at the base of trees like Melaleuca quinquenervia that are growing in water or wet soggy ground where many plants won’t grow.

Propagation:

Seeds: Juncus polyanthemus require treatment before sowing. Pre-treat by placing the seeds into a glass of hot water. Allow the water to cool and leave to soak for 10 hours. Seeds that have not swollen repeat the exercise.

Juncus sarophorus seeds can be sown directly into a seed raising mix. Cover them with 5mm to 6mm of fine weed free mulch and keep moist. Place the tray in a warm sunny position. When the seedlings are 20mm to 30mm tall, prick them out and plant them into 50mm native tubes using a good organic mix.

Once the seedlings reach 100mm to 150mm in height they can be planted out into their permanent position.

Division: When growing from divisions:

1. Do not water before you start.

2. Cut back foliage to around 70mm to 100mm in length,

3. Use a garden fork or shovel to dig around the clump you want to divide,

4. Lift the whole of the root ball out of the ground,

5. Remove the soil by shaking. If the soil is hard allow to sit in a container of water for 15 minutes to half an hour. Repeat the shaking in the water and hose off excess soil,

6. Once the rhizomes can be seen clearly it is easier to pry and split the clump into several smaller clumps.

7. Replant in the prepared bed using half a hand full of blood and bone in the hole and mix,

8. Level off at the same level the bulbs were at the start.

9. Water regularly and feed fortnightly until the plants have re-established themselves.

Fertilize using Seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water and apply the liquid on an alternate basis. Fertilize every 2 months until the plants are well established then on an annual basis in September or March to maintain good health, vigour and better flowering.

Further Comments from Readers:

“Hi reader, it seems you use The Bible of Botany a lot. That’s great as we have great pleasure in bringing it to you! It’s a little awkward for us to ask, but our first aim is to purchase land approximately 1,600 hectares to link several parcels of N.P. into one at The Pinnacles NSW Australia, but we need your help. We’re not salespeople. We’re amateur botanists who have dedicated over 30 years to saving the environment in a practical way. We depend on donations to reach our goal. If you donate just $5, the price of your coffee this Sunday, We can help to keep the planet alive in a real way and continue to bring you regular updates and features on Australian plants all in one Botanical Bible. Any support is greatly appreciated. Thank you.” In the spirit of reconciliation we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.

Juncus prismatocarpus

Classification:

Class: Liliopsida

Order: Poales

Family: Juncaceae

Genus: From Juncus, which is Ancient Greek for a rush or Jingere, which is Latin for to tie or bind. It refers to plants, which thrive wet places with reed like foliage or in Latin It refers to the plants, which were used to tie or bind objects together.

Specie: From Prîsma, which is Ancient Greek for a prism and Karpós, which is Ancient Greek for a fruit. It refers to fruits, which take a prismatic form.

Sub species:

Common Name:

Distribution:

Juncus prismatocarpus is wide spread in a line south and east from St Lawrence to Salvator Rosa National Park and Inglewood in central coastal and southern Queensland to the Brisbane Ranges west of Geelong in Victoria with a further disjunct population near Hawkesdale. It is found further north from the Windsor Tableland south to Boulder Mountain in far north Queensland.

In South Australia it is found in an area bounded by Jervois Swamp near Tailem Bend to Mypolonga, Warrawong Sanctuary and Victor Harbour.

In Tasmania it is found in an area bounded by Ulverstone in the north to Inala Pond which joins Nairana Ponds on South Bruny Island in the south to Mount Barrow in the east.

https://avh.ala.org.au/occurrences/search?taxa=Juncus+prismatocarpus#tab_mapView

Habitat Aspect Climate:

It prefers full sun to light dappled shade. It grows in shallow depressions, on alluvial flats along creeks and streams around swamps and wallums and in seasonally wet marshy flats. The altitude ranges from 5 meters ASL to 850 meters ASL.

The temperatures range from minus 5 degrees in August to 38 degrees in January.

The rainfalls range from lows of 400mm to an average of 2500mm annually. This is of little consequence as the plants grow where there is permanent surface water.

Soil Requirements:

Juncus prismatocarpus prefers to grow on peaty sands, fatty sands, and light clays to medium clays. The soils are derived from shale, sandstones, granites, metamorphic rocks, brown basalts, black basalts, mudstones or accumulated beach sands. Poorly drained podsolic soils are also a common feature of the terrain and soil. The soils pH ranges from 4.5pH to 6pH are preferred. It does not tolerate water logged soils. Non saline soils to moderately saline soils are tolerated.

Height & Spread:

Wild Plants: 0.2m to 0.4m by 0.3m to 0.5m.

Characteristics:

Juncus prismatocarpus is a perennial that grows in densely packed tufts. Its culms are terete and measure 100mm to 400mm in length by 1.3mm to 3mm in diameter. The hard culms are a dull pale blue-green to sea-green. It has a short glossy deep brown almost black rhizome.

The pluritubulose leaves are scattered along the culms. The compressed leaves measure 80mm to 350mm in length by 1.3mm to 3.2mm in width are usually shorter than the culms or at times are equal to the culms in length. The auricles measure 0.3mm to 1mm in length.

The inflorescences of Juncus prismatocarpus are pseudo lateral spikelets that are diffused or are clusters at apex of the branches and measure 50mm to 170mm in length. The numerous flowers are on what appears to be a loosely clustered second. There are 4 to 40 clusters on each inflorescence with 5 to 25 individual flowers in each cluster. The involucral bracts have 1 well developed leaf like bract that measures 30 to 140mm in length and is shorter than the inflorescence. The tepals are straw-brown to red-brown with narrow hyaline margins. The outer tepals measure 2.5mm to 4.1mmin length and are equal in length to the inner tepals.

The 3 stamens measure 1.8mm to 3.2mm in length and are equal to the inner tepals while the anthers measure 0.4mm to 0.7mm. The flowers appear from late September to late February.

Juncus prismatocarpus’s fruits are narrow ovoidal capsules with acuminate apexes that have rostrate tips. The capsules measure 5.2mm to 7.2mm in length by 1.5mm to 2mm in diameter. The capsules turn a golden-brown as they ripen.

Wildlife:

Juncus prismatocarpus plays a vital role in the web of life. It protects creek and stream banks from erosion, supports small seed eating birds with food and supplies nesting material for many small water fowl like Lewin’s rail (Rallus pectoralis) and the Little Grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis). Many frogs use the plants as a safe corridor in which to travel along and feed.

Cultivation:

Juncus prismatocarpus are native rushes that are frequently overlooked by gardeners because of their weak, uninteresting form in pots. It is suitable for small, medium and large sunny gardens close to the coast or inland in temperate sub tropical areas, tropical or semi-arid zones especially where the soils have poor drainage or are continually water logged. As garden subjects it grows with a semi spreading habit. It grows from 0.3 meter to 0.4 meters high by 0.5meters to 0.7 meters in diameter when grown in the open. It is fast growing and is best cut back to make it a little denser in habit. It is cold tolerant to temperatures as low as minus 2 degrees once established though some burning will occur. If this was to happen cut it back to just above the culms and fertilize. It recovers very quickly to their former beauty. Use small annuals like Viola betonicifolia which has a tight compact growth and would contrast beautifully in foliage. Isotoma armstrongii, Isotoma axillari or Hibbertia dentata for additional colour and foliage contrasts. All these plants are best grown in an open position and not crowded to display each other’s form to the best advantage. Do not use large plants or the landscape will look very weedy.

It is suitable for use around small to medium fish or frog ponds.

If it is placed around rocks and small boulders it can make the pool or any water feature appear a lot larger.

Propagation:

Seeds: Juncus prismatocarpus require treatment before sowing. Pre-treat by placing the seeds into a glass of hot water. Allow the water to cool and leave to soak for 10 hours. Seeds that have not swollen repeat the exercise.

Juncus prismatocarpus seeds can be sown directly into a seed raising mix. Cover them with 5mm to 6mm of fine weed free mulch and keep moist. Place the tray in a warm sunny position. When the seedlings are 20mm to 30mm tall, prick them out and plant them into 50mm native tubes using a good organic mix.

Once the seedlings reach 100mm to 150mm in height they can be planted out into their permanent position.

Division: When growing from divisions:

1. Do not water before you start.

2. Cut back foliage to around 70mm to 100mm in length,

3. Use a garden fork or shovel to dig around the clump you want to divide,

4. Lift the whole of the root ball out of the ground,

5. Remove the soil by shaking. If the soil is hard allow to sit in a container of water for 15 minutes to half an hour. Repeat the shaking in the water and hose off excess soil,

6. Once the rhizomes can be seen clearly it is easier to pry and split the clump into several smaller clumps.

7. Replant in the prepared bed using half a hand full of blood and bone in the hole and mix,

8. Level off at the same level the bulbs were at the start.

9. Water regularly and feed fortnightly until the plants have re-established themselves.

Fertilize using Seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water and apply the liquid on an alternate basis. Fertilize every 2 months until the plants are well established then on an annual basis in September or March to maintain good health, vigour and better flowering.

Further Comments from Readers:

“Hi reader, it seems you use The Bible of Botany a lot. That’s great as we have great pleasure in bringing it to you! It’s a little awkward for us to ask, but our first aim is to purchase land approximately 1,600 hectares to link several parcels of N.P. into one at The Pinnacles NSW Australia, but we need your help. We’re not salespeople. We’re amateur botanists who have dedicated over 30 years to saving the environment in a practical way. We depend on donations to reach our goal. If you donate just $5, the price of your coffee this Sunday, We can help to keep the planet alive in a real way and continue to bring you regular updates and features on Australian plants all in one Botanical Bible. Any support is greatly appreciated. Thank you.”

In the spirit of reconciliation we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.

Juncus sarophorus

Classification:

Class: Liliopsida

Order: Poales

Family: Juncaceae

Genus: From Juncus, which is Ancient Greek for a rush or Jingere, which is Latin for to tie or bind. It refers to plants, which thrive wet places with reed like foliage or in Latin It refers to the plants, which were used to tie or bind objects together.

Specie: From Saros, which is Ancient Greek for broom like and Phoros, which is Ancient Greek for to bear. It refers to the plant culms, which resemble large broom heads or were once used in the manufacturing of brooms.

Sub species:

Common Name:

Distribution:

Juncus sarophorus is found south from near Ebor on the northern tablelands south to Melbourne then west to Adelaide along the Murray River.

It is also found throughout Tasmania except for the highlands where perma-frosts exist all year.

https://avh.ala.org.au/occurrences/search?taxa=Juncus+sarophorus#tab_mapView

Habitat Aspect Climate:

Juncus sarophorus prefers full sun to light dappled shade. It grows on alluvial flats along creek and streams meanders, around swamps and wallums. The altitude ranges from 5 meters ASL to 1300 meters ASL.

The temperatures range from minus 5 degrees in August to 30 degrees in January.

The rainfalls range from lows of 500mm to an average of 1800mm annually. This is of little consequence because the plants grow where there is permanent surface water or water drawn to the surface by capillary action through the soil.

Soil Requirements:

Juncus sarophorus prefers to grow on low nutrient light clays to medium clays. The soils are usually derived from shale, sandstones, granites, metamorphic rocks, brown basalts, black basalts or conglomerates. Poorly drained podsolic soils are a common feature of the terrain and soils. The soils pH ranges from 4.5pH to 6pH are preferred. It tolerates water logged soils. Non saline soils to moderately saline soils are tolerated.

Height & Spread:

Wild Plants: 0.6m to 1.7m by 1m to 2m.

Characteristics:

Juncus sarophorus grows as a small perennial with strong, thick rusty-brown scaled rhizomes.

Juncus sarophorus’s culms are terete and measure 550mm to 1700mm in length by 1.3mm to 3.2mm in diameter. The hard culms are a dull deep blue-green to deep grey-green. They have 20 to 40 striations while the center pith is white and usually interrupted or on very rare occasions partly continuous.

The lax cataphylls measure 130mm to 400mm in length. The deep yellowish-brown are deep reddish-brown to deep chocolate-brown at base externally and golden-brown to coppery-orange internally.

The inflorescences of Juncus sarophorus are pseudo lateral spikelets that are diffused and measure 60mm to 150mm. The numerous flowers are single or loosely clustered along the seconds. The lowest involucral bract measures 150 to 300mm in length and is longer then the inflorescence. The tepals are deep yellowish-fawn or at times are reddish-brown along the midrib with broad hyaline margins. The outer tepals measure1.6mm to 2.5mm in length and are longer than inner tepals.

The 3 stamens measure 1.4mm to 2.2mm in length and are shorter than the outer tepals while the anthers measure 0.3mm to 0.6mm.

Juncus sarophorus’s fruits are narrow ovoidal to ellipsoidal capsules. The capsules measure 1.5mm to 3mm in length by 0.9mm to 1.7mm in width and are slightly shorter or slightly longer than the outer tepals. The capsules turn a golden-brown as they ripen.

Wildlife:

Juncus sarophorus protects creek and stream banks from erosion, supports small seed eating birds with food and also is the nesting haunts for Blue wrens, Red back Wren and the Grass wren. Many frogs use the plants as a safe corridor in which to travel along and feed.

Cultivation:

It is a beautiful small native rush that is frequently overlooked by gardeners because of their strong, vigorous weedy form in pots and in the wild or have a pre conception that it will look weedy in the garden. They are suitable for medium and large sunny gardens close to the coast or inland in temperate sub tropical areas, tropical or semi-arid zones especially where the soils have poor drainage or are continually water logged. As garden subjects they will grow very erect and rigid. It grows from 1.2 meter to 1.5 meters in height by 0.8 meters to 1 meter in diameter when grown in the open. It grows fast and is cold tolerant to temperatures as low as minus 4 degrees once established.

It is most suitable for use around swimming pools, bright courtyards, besides pathways, large rockeries, along sandy clay banks or along drive ways or adjacent to natural heath gardens where water is a problem. Mass plantings of 5 or more plants even in small areas; really do the plants justification especially when they are in flower. Medium to large fish or frog ponds will benefit from Juncus saraphorus.

If it is placed around a pool, courtyards or other confined spaces then plant them in small groups or scatter plant them for a more informal natural look against walls to help soften them. Using rocks and small boulders can make the pool or any water feature appear like an oasis. The leaves and flowers can make a great start for the miniature wallum, mangrove or swamp setting.

Imagine a flat area of just 120 square meters dotted with Juncus saraphorus. Between them, covering the ground; are small ground hugging Hibbertia obtusifolia, Grevillea masonii and Grevillea thelemanniana with their different textured leaves, yellow, red and orange flowers. This would give a horizontal landscape a look of greater expansiveness. The Juncus saraphorus’s long narrow leaves give height and depth to the scene. Now place a small pond and place it in the picture with a few Viola betonicifolia growing close to the pond and Viola hederacea filling in the gaps between Juncus saraphorus. With just 4 varieties of small plants Juncus has given them all character and brings them alive. All these small plants will steal your attention at different times of the year so you don’t get bored with the scene. 

Propagation:

Seeds: Juncus sarophorus require treatment before sowing. Pre-treat by placing the seeds into a glass of hot water. Allow the water to cool and leave to soak for 10 hours. Seeds that have not swollen repeat the exercise.

Juncus sarophorus seeds can be sown directly into a seed raising mix. Cover them with 5mm to 6mm of fine weed free mulch and keep moist. Place the tray in a warm sunny position. When the seedlings are 20mm to 30mm tall, prick them out and plant them into 50mm native tubes using a good organic mix.

Once the seedlings reach 100mm to 150mm in height they can be planted out into their permanent position.

Division: When growing from divisions:

1. Do not water before you start.

2. Cut back foliage to around 70mm to 100mm in length,

3. Use a garden fork or shovel to dig around the clump you want to divide,

4. Lift the whole of the root ball out of the ground,

5. Remove the soil by shaking. If the soil is hard allow to sit in a container of water for 15 minutes to half an hour. Repeat the shaking in the water and hose off excess soil,

6. Once the rhizomes can be seen clearly it is easier to pry and split the clump into several smaller clumps.

7. Replant in the prepared bed using half a hand full of blood and bone in the hole and mix,

8. Level off at the same level the bulbs were at the start.

9. Water regularly and feed fortnightly until the plants have re-established themselves.

Fertilize using Seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water and apply the liquid on an alternate basis. Fertilize every 2 months until the plants are well established then on an annual basis in September or March to maintain good health, vigour and better flowering.

Further Comments from Readers:

“Hi reader, it seems you use The Bible of Botany a lot. That’s great as we have great pleasure in bringing it to you! It’s a little awkward for us to ask, but our first aim is to purchase land approximately 1,600 hectares to link several parcels of N.P. into one at The Pinnacles NSW Australia, but we need your help. We’re not salespeople. We’re amateur botanists who have dedicated over 30 years to saving the environment in a practical way. We depend on donations to reach our goal. If you donate just $5, the price of your coffee this Sunday, We can help to keep the planet alive in a real way and continue to bring you regular updates and features on Australian plants all in one Botanical Bible. Any support is greatly appreciated. Thank you.”

In the spirit of reconciliation we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.

Juncus subsecundus

Classification:

ClassLiliopsida

Order: Poales

Family: Juncaceae

Genus: From Juncus, which is Ancient Greek for a rush or Jingere, which is Latin for to tie or bind. It refers to plants, which thrive wet places with reed like foliage or in Latin It refers to the plants, which were used to tie or bind objects together.

Specie: From Sub, which is Ancient Greek/Latin for below or lower and Secundus, which is Latin for to have leaves or flowers in a row on one side. It refers to the leaves or flowers one side of a stem or spike.

Sub species:

Common Name:

Distribution:

Juncus subsecundus is found in 3 separate disjunct populations in the southern half of the continent. In the Western Australia it is found in a line south and west of the Moore River Bridge to Mount Jackson to Esperance with a population further east at Bullabulling near the railway siding.

In the east it is found south from Fraser Island to Chesterton Range National Park, Gammon Range on the Flinders block and the southern tip of Eyre Peninsular.

In Tasmania it is found in an area bounded by Oldina Forest Reserve Picnic area, along Blackfish Creek to Mount Gell in the Cheyne Range to Kettering and from George Town to .Great Swan Port.

https://avh.ala.org.au/occurrences/search?taxa=Juncus+subsecundus#tab_mapView

Habitat Aspect Climate:

It prefers full sun to light dappled shade. It grows on alluvial flats along creeks and streams around swamps and wallums. The altitude ranges from 5 meters ASL to 1300 meters ASL.

The temperatures range from minus 5 degrees in August to 40 degrees in January.

The rainfalls range from lows of 200mm to an average of 2200mm annually. This is of little consequence because the plants grow where there is permanent surface water.

Soil Requirements:

Juncus subsecundus prefers to grow on low nutrient light clays to medium muddy clays. The soils are derived from shale, sandstones, granites, metamorphic rocks, brown basalts or black basalts. Poorly drained podsolic soils are a common feature of the terrain and soil. The soils pH ranges from 4.5pH to 7pH are preferred. It tolerates water logged soils. Non saline soils to moderately saline soils are tolerated as are salt laden winds.

Height & Spread:

Wild Plants: 0.25m to 0.9m by 0.8m to 1m.

Characteristics:

Juncus subsecundus is a perennial that grows in dense clumps. It has a short glossy deep brown scaly rhizome.

Juncus subsecundus’s culms are terete and measure 250mm to 700mm in length by 0.6mm to 2.2mm in diameter. The hard culms are a dull deep grey-green. They usually have 15 to 30 or at times up to 40 striations while the center pith is white and is usually regularly interrupted.

The tight cataphylls measure 30mm to 11mm in length. The yellowish-fawn to deep yellow-brown at near the base externally and is silver internally.

The inflorescences of Juncus subsecundus are pseudo lateral spikelets that are diffused and usually measure 10mm to 70mm or at times up to 120mm in length. The numerous flowers are singular or in small clusters along the second. The lowest involucral bract measures 50mm to 200mm in length and are always longer than the inflorescences. The tepals are usually yellowish-brown or yellowish-brown with red-tinge and broad hyaline margins. The outer tepals measure 2mm to 4mm in length and are longer than or equal the inner tepals.

The usually 3 or at times 6 or rarely 4 or 5 stamens measure 1.5mm to 3.5mm in length and are always shorter than the outer tepals while the anthers measure 0.5mm to 0.8mm.

Juncus subsecundus’s fruits are obloidal to ellipsoidal capsules with obtuse or acute apexes that have small apiculate tip. The capsules measure 1.8mm to 4.3mm in length by 1.6mm to 4mm in diameter. The capsules turn a mid golden-brown, deep golden-brown to deep reddish-brown when ripe.

Wildlife:

Juncus subsecundus protects creek and stream banks from erosion, supports small seed eating birds with food and also is the nesting haunts for Blue wrens, Red back Wren and the Grass wren. Many frogs use the plants as a safe corridor in which to travel along and feed. It is probably one of the best frog habitat species for the home gardener to grow.

Cultivation:

Juncus subsecundus is a beautiful medium size native rushes that is frequently overlooked by gardeners because of they often look root bound and weedy in pots. It is suitable for medium and large sunny gardens close to the coast or inland in temperate sub tropical areas, tropical or semi-arid zones especially where the soils have poor drainage or are continually water logged. As garden subjects it grows very dense, erect and rigid. It has an ideal height for most home gardeners growing from 0.7 meter to 0.8 meters in height by 0.3 meters to 0.4 meters in diameter when grown in the open. It is fast growing and is cold tolerant to temperatures as low as minus 4 degrees once established provided the water does not freeze over.

It is most suitable for use around swimming pools, bright courtyards, besides pathways, rockeries, along sandy clay banks or along drive ways or adjacent to natural heath gardens where water is a problem. Mass plantings of 5 or more plants even in small areas; really do the plants justification especially when they are in flower. Medium to large fish or frog ponds will benefit from Juncus subsecundus.

It is well suited to flat heavy silty soils that are water logged for extended periods throughout the year or areas in the garden that have been created to retain moisture. (This is achieved by making swales on slopes or using rocks and logs on flat ground and slopes to prevent the water flowing away.) Here it can be planted sparsely with other smaller sub shrubs or herbs with a horizontal growth leaving bare patches of ground between each plant so none of them dominate the scene but blend in to give a mosaic of foliage, colour and patterns. Here I immediately think of Actinotis helianthi, Chloanthes parviflora, Pelargonium australe, Pelargonium inodorum. Hardenbergia comptoniana or Hardenbergia violacea with Hibbertia scandens trimmed to a small round clump or Kunzea capitata all add great variation in leaf, flower colour flowering period and texture. Leave a space between the plants to avoid a clustered weedy look.

All these small plants will steal your attention at different times of the year so you don’t get bored with the scene. 

Propagation:

Seeds: Juncus subsecundus require treatment before sowing. Pre-treat by placing the seeds into a glass of hot water. Allow the water to cool and leave to soak for 10 hours. Seeds that have not swollen repeat the exercise.

Juncus subsecundus seeds can be sown directly into a seed raising mix. Cover them with 5mm to 6mm of fine weed free mulch and keep moist. Place the tray in a warm sunny position. When the seedlings are 20mm to 30mm tall, prick them out and plant them into 50mm native tubes using a good organic mix.

Once the seedlings reach 100mm to 150mm in height they can be planted out into their permanent position.

Division: When growing from divisions:

1. Do not water before you start.

2. Cut back foliage to around 70mm to 100mm in length,

3. Use a garden fork or shovel to dig around the clump you want to divide,

4. Lift the whole of the root ball out of the ground,

5. Remove the soil by shaking. If the soil is hard allow to sit in a container of water for 15 minutes to half an hour. Repeat the shaking in the water and hose off excess soil,

6. Once the rhizomes can be seen clearly it is easier to pry and split the clump into several smaller clumps.

7. Replant in the prepared bed using half a hand full of blood and bone in the hole and mix,

8. Level off at the same level the bulbs were at the start.

9. Water regularly and feed fortnightly until the plants have re-established themselves.

Fertilize using Seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water and apply the liquid on an alternate basis. Fertilize every 2 months until the plants are well established then on an annual basis in September or March to maintain good health, vigour and better flowering.

Further Comments from Readers:

“Hi reader, it seems you use The Bible of Botany a lot. That’s great as we have great pleasure in bringing it to you! It’s a little awkward for us to ask, but our first aim is to purchase land approximately 1,600 hectares to link several parcels of N.P. into one at The Pinnacles NSW Australia, but we need your help. We’re not salespeople. We’re amateur botanists who have dedicated over 30 years to saving the environment in a practical way. We depend on donations to reach our goal. If you donate just $5, the price of your coffee this Sunday, We can help to keep the planet alive in a real way and continue to bring you regular updates and features on Australian plants all in one Botanical Bible. Any support is greatly appreciated. Thank you.”

In the spirit of reconciliation we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.

Ischnura heterosticta mating on pond surrounded by Juncus usitatus

Juncus usitatus

Classification:

ClassLiliopsida

Order: Poales

Family: Juncaceae

Genus: From Juncus, which is Ancient Greek for a rush or Jingere, which is Latin for to tie or bind. It refers to plants, which thrive wet places with reed like foliage or in Latin It refers to the plants, which were used to tie or bind objects together.

Specie: From Usitata, which is Latin for to use every day or familiar with. It refers to the fact that early aboriginals used the culms extensively in everyday life and/or the fact that the plants are very common.

Sub species:

Common Name: Common Rush.

Distribution:

Juncus usitatus is found in several isolated and disjunct populations in Western Australia and the east coast.

The South Australian populations around Adelaide and Western Australian populations are most likely the results of irrigation and nursery introductions escaping. In the west it is found south from the Swan River Coastal Plain to near Albany.

In South Australia it is found from near the border on the Murray River across to Adelaide and south to Lake Alexandrina.

In the east it is found from Cairns in far north Queensland to near Bairnsdale in eastern Victoria. It is also found along the Murray, Darling Rivers and south to the western suburbs of Melbourne.

https://avh.ala.org.au/occurrences/search?taxa=Juncus+usitatus#tab_mapView

Habitat Aspect Climate:

Juncus usitatus prefers full sun to light dappled shade. It grows on alluvial flats along creeks and streams around swamps and wallums. The altitude ranges from 2 meters ASL to 1300 meters ASL.

The temperatures range from minus 2 degrees in August to 40 degrees in January.

The rainfalls range from lows of 300mm to an average of 2600mm annually however this is of little consequence because the plants grow where there is permanent surface water or water drawn to the surface by capillary action through the soil.

Soil Requirements:

Juncus usitatus prefers to grow on peaty sands, fatty sands, and sandy loams, light clays to medium clays or light silts to heavy silts. The soils are usually derived from shale, sandstones, granites, and brown basalts, black basalts, metamorphic rocks, mudstones, accumulated peaty beach sands, accumulated coral sands or alluvial deposits. Poorly drained podsolic soils are a common feature of the terrain and soil. The soils pH ranges from 4.5pH to 7.5pH are preferred. It tolerates water logged soils. Non saline soils to very saline soils are tolerated as are salt laden winds.

Height & Spread:

Wild Plants: 0.8m to 1.1m by 0.5m to 1m.

Characteristics:

Juncus usitatus grows from densely packed culms. They have a short glossy deep brown scaly rhizome.

Juncus usitatus’s culms are terete and measure 40mm to 110mm in length by 0.5mm to 2.2mm in diameter. The soft culms are a dull pale blue green to mid green. They have 20 to 40 striations while the center pith is white and usually interrupted or on rare occasions continuous.

The lax cataphylls measure 60mm to 80m length. They are golden-brown to reddish-brown at base externally, silvery to pale golden-brown internally and glabrous.

The inflorescences of Juncus usitatus is pseudo lateral spikelet that is fused together for 20mm to 70mm. The lax to weakly self-supporting cataphylls measure 60mm to 180mm in length and are a golden brown at the base and silvery at the apex. The flowers are numerous on what appears to be loose seconds. The involucral bracts measure 100mm to 280mm in length. The outer tepals measure 1.3mm to 2.2mm in length while the inner tepals measure 1.2mm to 2mm in length.

The usually 3 or rarely 4 to 6 stamens are shorter than the outer tepals while the anthers measure 0.3mm to 0.6mm.

Juncus usitatus’s fruit is an ellipsoidal to obtuse capsule. The capsules measure 2mm to 2.5mm in length by 1.5mm to 2mm in diameter. The capsules turn a golden-brown when ripe.

Wildlife:

Juncus usitatus protects creek and stream banks from erosion, supports small seed eating birds with food and also is the nesting haunts for Blue wrens, Red back Wren and the Grass wren. Many frogs use the plants as a safe corridor in which to travel along and feed.

Cultivation:

Juncus usitatus is a beautiful clean native rush which is frequently overlooked by gardeners because of their weak, uninteresting form in pots or a pre conception that they look weedy. It is suitable for small, medium and large sunny gardens close to the coast or inland in temperate sub tropical areas, tropical or semi-arid zones especially where the soils have poor drainage or are continually water logged. As garden subjects they will grow to 1 meter to 1.2 meters high by 0.8 meters to 1 meter wide when grown in the open. I fast growing and are cold tolerant to temperatures as low as minus 4 degrees once established.

It is most suitable for use around swimming pools, bright courtyards, besides pathways, rockeries, along sandy clay banks or along drive ways or adjacent to natural heath gardens where water is a problem. Mass plantings of 5 or more plants even in small areas; really do the plants justification especially when they are in flower. Medium to large fish or frog ponds will benefit from Juncus usitatus.

If it is placed around a pool, courtyards or other confined spaces then plant them in small groups or scatter plant them for a more informal natural look against walls to help soften them. Using rocks and small boulders can make the pool or any water feature appear like an oasis. The leaves and flowers can make a great start for the miniature wallum, mangrove or swamp setting.

Imagine a flat area of just 120 square meters dotted with Juncus usitatus. Between them, covering the ground; are small ground hugging Hibbertia obtusifolia, Grevillea masonii and Grevillea thelemanniana with their different textured leaves, yellow, red and orange flowers. This would give a horizontal landscape a look of greater expansiveness. The Juncus usitatus’s long narrow leaves give height and depth to the scene. Now place a small pond and place it in the picture with a few Viola betonicifolia growing close to the pond and Viola hederacea filling in the gaps between the Juncus. With just 4 varieties of small plants Juncus has given them all character and brings them alive. All these small plants will steal your attention at different times of the year so you don’t get bored with the scene.  Leave a space between the plants to avoid a clustered weedy look.

Propagation:

Seeds: Juncus usitatus require treatment before sowing. Pre-treat by placing the seeds into a glass of hot water. Allow the water to cool and leave to soak for 10 hours. Seeds that have not swollen repeat the exercise.

Juncus usitatus seeds can be sown directly into a seed raising mix. Cover them with 5mm to 6mm of fine weed free mulch and keep moist. Place the tray in a warm sunny position. When the seedlings are 20mm to 30mm tall, prick them out and plant them into 50mm native tubes using a good organic mix.

Once the seedlings reach 100mm to 150mm in height they can be planted out into their permanent position.

Division: When growing from divisions remove the plant from the soil and just cut it into 3 or 4 equal parts, first down the middle then halve those sections again. Remove unwanted dead leaves and any old small clumps that look weak or dead. Plants can be divided further but ensure each division has a several strong shoot and healthy roots attached to the tuff. Replant ensuring the soil is at the same level as before. Water and fertilize. New shoots will appear within two weeks.

Fertilize using Seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water and apply the liquid on an alternate basis. Fertilize every 2 months until the plants are well established then on an annual basis in September or March to maintain good health, vigour and better flowering.

Further Comments from Readers:

“Hi reader, it seems you use The Bible of Botany a lot. That’s great as we have great pleasure in bringing it to you! It’s a little awkward for us to ask, but our first aim is to purchase land approximately 1,600 hectares to link several parcels of N.P. into one at The Pinnacles NSW Australia, but we need your help. We’re not salespeople. We’re amateur botanists who have dedicated over 30 years to saving the environment in a practical way. We depend on donations to reach our goal. If you donate just $5, the price of your coffee this Sunday, We can help to keep the planet alive in a real way and continue to bring you regular updates and features on Australian plants all in one Botanical Bible. Any support is greatly appreciated. Thank you.”

In the spirit of reconciliation we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.

Juncus vaginatus

Classification:

ClassLiliopsida

Order: Poales

Family: Juncaceae

Genus: From Juncus, which is Ancient Greek for a rush or Jingere, which is Latin for to tie or bind. It refers to plants, which thrive wet places with reed like foliage or in Latin It refers to the plants, which were used to tie or bind objects together.

Specie: From Vaginatus, which is Latin for having a sheath. It refers to a structure like a culm which has split or fold like vagina opening where a flower or plantlet develops.

Sub species:

Common Name:

Distribution:

Juncus vaginatus is found south from Warwick in southern Queensland to the Grampians and Geelong in southern Victoria. It is mainly found on the eastern side of the Western Plains, Western Slopes and on the Great Dividing Range with scattered populations on the eastern side to the coast.

https://avh.ala.org.au/occurrences/search?taxa=Juncus+vaginatus#tab_mapView

Habitat Aspect Climate:

Juncus vaginatus prefers full sun to light dappled shade. It grows on alluvial flats along creeks and streams around swamps and wallums. The altitude ranges from 5 meters ASL to 1300 meters ASL.

The temperatures range from minus 5 degrees in August to 30 degrees in January.

The rainfalls range from lows of 500mm to an average of 1800mm annually. This is of little consequence because the plants grow where there is permanent surface water or water drawn to the surface by capillary action through the soil.

Soil Requirements:

Juncus vaginatus prefers to grow on low nutrient light clays to medium clays. The soils are derived from shale, sandstones, granites, metamorphic rocks, brown basalts, black basalts and mudstones. Poorly drained podsolic soils are a common feature of the terrain and soil. The soils pH ranges from 4.5pH to 6pH are preferred. It tolerates water logged soils. Non saline soils to moderately saline soils are tolerated as are salt laden winds.

Height & Spread:

Wild Plants: 0.6m to 1m by 0.8m to 1.3m.

Characteristics:

Juncus vaginatus is a perennial that grows in dense clumps. It has short, thick, glossy deep brown scaly rhizomes.

Juncus vaginatus’s culms are terete and measure 300mm to 1000mm in length by 1.5mm to 4.5mm in diameter. The soft culms are pale yellowish-green to olive-green. They have 30 to 65 striations while the center pith is white and continuous. The long sheaths on this species have a split from which the new culms grow.

The lax cataphylls measure 70mm to 240mm in length. The cataphylls are pale yellow-ochre to deep yellow-brown externally and silvery internally.

The inflorescences are pseudo lateral spikelets that are diffused and measure 70mm to 170mm. The numerous flowers are densely clustered panicles. The lowest involucral bract measures 110mm to 400mm in length and is always longer than the inflorescence. The tepals are usually brownish-ochre or at times are brownish-ochre with a reddish-brown tinge. The margins are narrow hyaline. The outer tepals measure 2.6mm to 3.2mm in length and are longer than or equal to the inner tepals.

The 6 stamens measure 2.2mm to 3mm in length and are always shorter than the outer tepals while the anthers measure 0.5mm to 0.9mm.

Juncus vaginatus’s fruits are ovoidal to ellipsoidal capsules with obtuse apexes that are slightly apiculate. The capsules measure 2.4mm to 3.5mm in length by 1.6mm to 2.7mm in diameter. The capsules turn a golden-brown when ripe.

Wildlife:

Juncus vaginatus protects creek and stream banks from erosion, supports small seed eating birds with food and also is the nesting haunts for Blue wrens, Red back Wren and many finches. Many frogs use the plants as a safe corridor in which to travel along and feed.

Cultivation:

Juncus vaginatus is a beautiful clean native rushes that is frequently overlooked by gardeners because of their weak, uninteresting form in pots or a pre conception that they look weedy. It is suitable for small, medium and large sunny gardens close to the coast or inland in temperate sub tropical areas, tropical or semi-arid zones especially where the soils have poor drainage or are continually water logged. As garden subjects it grows very erect and rigid. It grows from 1 meter to 1.2 meters high by 0.8 meters to 1.3 meter in diameter when grown in the open. It is fast growing and are cold tolerant to temperatures as low as minus 4 degrees once established though some burning will occur. If this was to happen cut it back to just above the culms and fertilize. It recovers very quickly to their former beauty.

It is most suitable for use around swimming pools, bright courtyards, besides pathways, rockeries, along sandy clay banks or along drive ways or adjacent to natural heath gardens where water is a problem. Mass plantings of 5 or more plants even in small areas; really do the plants justification especially when they are in flower. Medium to large fish or frog ponds will benefit from Juncus vaginatus as water is its second nature.

If it is placed around a pool, courtyards or other confined spaces then plant them in small groups or scatter plant them for a more informal natural look against walls to help soften them. Using rocks and small boulders can make the pool or any water feature appear like an oasis. The leaves and flowers can make a great start for the miniature wallum, mangrove or swamp setting.

Imagine a flat area of just 120 square meters mass planted or dotted with Juncus vaginatus. Between them, covering the ground; are small ground hugging Hibbertia obtusifolia, Grevillea masonii and Grevillea thelemanniana with their different textured leaves, yellow, red and orange flowers. This would give a horizontal landscape a look of greater expansiveness. The Juncus saraphorus’s long narrow leaves give height and depth to the scene. Now place a small pond and place it in the picture with a few Viola betonicifolia growing close to the pond and Viola hederacea filling in the gaps between the Juncus.

Propagation:

Seeds: Juncus vaginatus require treatment before sowing. Pre-treat by placing the seeds into a glass of hot water. Allow the water to cool and leave to soak for 10 hours. Seeds that have not swollen repeat the exercise.

The seeds can be sown directly into a seed raising mix. Cover them with 5mm to 6mm of fine weed free mulch and keep moist. Place the tray in a warm sunny position. When the seedlings are 20mm to 30mm tall, prick them out and plant them into 50mm native tubes using a good organic mix.

Once the seedlings reach 100mm to 150mm in height they can be planted out into their permanent position.

Division: When growing from divisions remove the plant from the soil and just cut it into 3 or 4 equal parts, first down the middle then halve those sections again. Remove unwanted dead leaves and any old small clumps that look weak or dead. Plants can be divided further but ensure each division has a several strong shoot and healthy roots attached to the tuff. Replant ensuring the soil is at the same level as before. Water and fertilize. New shoots will appear within two weeks.

Fertilize using Seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water and apply the liquid on an alternate basis. Fertilize every 2 months until the plants are well established then on an annual basis in September or March to maintain good health, vigour and better flowering.

Further Comments from Readers:

“Hi reader, it seems you use The Bible of Botany a lot. That’s great as we have great pleasure in bringing it to you! It’s a little awkward for us to ask, but our first aim is to purchase land approximately 1,600 hectares to link several parcels of N.P. into one at The Pinnacles NSW Australia, but we need your help. We’re not salespeople. We’re amateur botanists who have dedicated over 30 years to saving the environment in a practical way. We depend on donations to reach our goal. If you donate just $5, the price of your coffee this Sunday, We can help to keep the planet alive in a real way and continue to bring you regular updates and features on Australian plants all in one Botanical Bible. Any support is greatly appreciated. Thank you.”

In the spirit of reconciliation we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.