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Ancistrachne maideni Fortis Creek National Park NSW

Cyanthillium cinereum var cinereum Fortis Creek National Park NSW

Cyanthillium cinereum var cinereum Fortis Creek National Park NSW

Cyanthillium cinereum var cinereum Fortis Creek National Park NSW

Entolasia stricta Fortis Creek National Park NSW

Entolasia stricta Fortis Creek National Park NSW

Entolasia stricta Fortis Creek National Park NSW

Entolasia stricta Fortis Creek National Park NSW

Goodenia paniculata Fortis Creek National Park NSW

Lomandra elongata Fortis Creek National Park NSW

Lomandra elongata Fortis Creek National Park NSW

Murdannia graminea Fortis Creek National Park NSW

Murdannia graminea Fortis Creek National Park NSW

There are those days where you cover a lot of ground where nothing catches your attention. Well this week though nothing rare popped up a few photos of interest were had and made easier because the overcast weather made it great for photographing.

It started with Ancistrachne maideni then Cyanthillium cinereum var cinereum. Cyanthillium cinereum has edible leaves which are very high in antioxidants and vitamin C. “In conclusion, we confirmed that hexane, chloroform, methanolic and aqueous crude extracts of Cyanthillium cinereum (whole plant) bear potent antioxidant property. Their constituents scavenge different free radicals and exert protective effects against oxidative damage to biological macromolecules like lipids and DNA. Further studies on the isolation of these compounds are in prospect. C. cinereum thus showed to contain considerable potential as an antithesis of free radicals, and may have prospective clinical use as a preventive medicine against various degenerative diseases and tissue aging. Most gardens consider it a weed however it is not weedy and can offer pockets of pink in full sun or semi shaded areas.” – https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3137564/#:~:text=cinereum%20(whole%20plant)%20bear%20potent,these%20compounds%20are%20in%20prospect.

It is easy to grow from seed so is a good starter plant for beginners.

I then came across the more upright form of Entolasia stricta and a more ovate leaf form on Goodenea paniculata. before my day was rounded off with Lomandra elongata and Murdannia graminea.

For a full description and all photographs see the plants in “Plant Index”

Back in October 2017 I discovered a new species of wood roach on the block upper photo. I have only seen it on two more occasions until this morning. Grabbed the camera as I new they weren’t going anywhere; in a hurry, this time and settled in for a little pornographic photography of the pair. Totally oblivious to me, the Polyzosteria sp. were on the leaf of Atractocarpus fitzalanii. They made me feel good as I knew the garden had not interfered with their life cycle. Hopefully their numbers will increase to a sustainable level. Note the bright iridescent blue-green legs. A great start to my new Year.

Unfortunately the introduced house cockroach has given the local garden species a bad name. They are not disease carriers and are not vectors of any disease, which can affects humans. They can be found in virtually all terrestrial habitats in Australia. Native cockroaches are present, tropical rain forests, woodlands arid mallees and temperate forests. Even some caves are host to a specialised pale blind and wingless species of cockroaches. There are no aquatic species known.

Most native species are nocturnal, while some are diurnal feeding amongst the foliage of native trees. Native cockroaches are an important part of the food web in many natural habitats, being eaten by invertebrates as well as mammals, frogs and reptiles. To repel predators, some species produce a pungent smell. Some of the wood eating cockroaches also play an important role as decomposers.

Hope your new year brings happiness and good health. andi & Ying.

It appears that I am having a Grassy time over Christmas by adding five photos of Bolboschoenus fluviatilis to the site. May have to whipper snip what little lawn areas I have in keeping with the theme.

There is a new article on the clump grass Paspalum orbiculare with six photos.

Spent boxing day along the middle reaches of the Clarence River and have included some new photos of  Fuirena ciliaris (Upper three photos) and Juncus prismatocarpus showing the wet sandy drains it prefers to grow in(Lower photo).

Located a plant; Mezoneuron brachycarpum, from the northern Rivers, which did not have a write up prior to today. If any one has photos of it or any other native plant species listed or not, please do not hesitate to have it included here. by dropping me a line. It will be greatly appreciated. You will be given full credit for the photo/s with watermark and covered with our copyright.

Have a great, safe and healthy Christmas, New Year break. We will be here in the garden or bush walking locally so please drop me an email. andi and Ying

Classification

Class: Eudicots

Class: Equisetopsida

Subclass: Magnoliidae

Order: Fabales

Family: Fabaceae

Genus: From Mezo, which is Ancient Greek for greater than and Neuron, which is Ancient Greek for a nerve. It refers to nerves on one side of the flat pods which are greatly protruded.

Specie: From Brachus, which is Ancient Greek for short and Karpós, which is Ancient Greek for a fruit. It refers to plants which have small fruits.

Sub specie:

Common Name: Corky Prickle Vine.

Distribution:

Mezoneuron brachycarpum is found in several disjunct populations south from the Daintree River and Russel River, ranges near Rockhampton in and Mount Bopple in coastal Queensland then south to north west of Port MacQuarrie in north eastern New South Wales. It is found on and east of the Great Dividing Range to the coast.

https://avh.ala.org.au/occurrences/search?taxa=Mezoneuron+brachycarpum#tab_mapView

Habitat Aspect Climate:

Mezoneuron brachycarpum prefer dappled shade to full shade. It grows in or adjacent to littoral rainforests, warm sub-tropical and cool tropical rainforests. The altitude ranges from 6 meters ASL to 440 meters ASL.

The temperatures range from 3 degree in July to 36 degrees in January.

The rainfall ranges from lows of 800mm to 3000mm average per annum.

Soil Requirements:

Mezoneuron brachycarpum prefers better quality, light gravelly clays to medium clays. The soils are usually derived from decomposed basalts. The soils pH ranges from 5.5pH to 7pH. It does not tolerate water logged soils, however the soils generally have good water holding capacity. Non saline soils to slightly saline soils are tolerated.

Height & Spread:

Wild Plants: 12m to 20m by 6m to 12m.

Characteristics:

Mezoneuron brachycarpum grows as a tall, woody vine. Juvenile stems and new shoots are semi glossy golden-brown, moderately to densely covered in white pubescent hairs, with scattered prickles, which measure 1mm to 3mm in length. The older, dull, fawn stems have prominent longitudinal, corky flanges, greater than the diameter of the stems.

The adjacent leaves of Mezoneuron brachycarpum measure 60mm to 320mm in length. The rachis is covered in fine prickles that measure 1mm to 3mm in length. There are 3 to 10 pairs of opposite to sub opposite pinnae, which measure 40 to 180mm in length. The 4 to 10 pairs of obovate to oblong subopposite pinnules measure 4mm to 12mm in length by 5mm to 7mm in width. The pinnules are glabrous to sparsely covered in white pubescent hairs. The base is obtuse while the apex is obtuse. The concolourous laminas are mid blue-green to deep green and glabrous. The petiole measures 15mm to 50mm in length.

The inflorescences of Mezoneuron brachycarpum are terminal panicles, which measure 100mm to 200mm in length and diameter. There are 70 to 140 flowers in a panicle. The rachis and pedicels are glabrous to sparsely covered in golden pubescent hairs and are sparsely covered in broad prickles, which measure 1mm to 3mm in length. The pedicels measure 3mm to 4mm in length.

The golden yellow sepals and petals are glabrous and measure 3.5mm to 4.5mm in length.

The glabrous, deep golden yellow filaments measure 5mm to 8mm in length while the linear, basifixed anthers are tan.

The greenish-yellow, bilobed style and stigma measure 3.5mm to 4.5mm in length. The flowers appear from September to February.

The fruits of Mezoneuron brachycarpum are ovate to rhombic flattened, glabrous pods measure 20mm to 30mm in length by 10mm to 20mm in width. The mid green pods turn brown when ripe and have prominent longitudinal venation. There are usually 2 or at times 3 flat, round seeds.

Wildlife:

Mezoneuron brachycarpum is the host to numerous beetles, native flies, midget wasps, butterflies, native bees and pollen flies when in flower and in return attracts many small insectivorous birds.

Cultivation:

Mezoneuron brachycarpum is an attractive large vine suitable for a rainforest garden or to cover a pergola. If it becomes straggly or drops its leaves due to stress cut it back and apply a double dose of our fertilizer and give it a good soaking of water. Repeat the watering and fertilizing again a week later and the plants will recover to their former beauty very quickly. It is ideal for large gardens from the tropics to temperate Australia.

Propagation:

Seeds: Mezoneuron brachycarpum seeds can be sown directly into a seed raising mix after they have been removed from the pod and have been nicked. Cover the seeds with 5mm of fine sand and water keeping the mix moist. Place the trays in a warm airy position under 30% shade.

When the seedlings are 50mm to 70mm tall, prick them out and plant them into 50mm native tubes using a seed raising mix.

Once the seedlings reach 150mm in height nip the growing tips out and plant them out into their permanent position. Mass plantings can be achieved with planting them at 8 to 10 meter centres on a large fence.

Fertilize using Seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water on an alternate basis. Fertilize every two months until the plants are established then annually in early September or March to maintain health, vitality and better flowering.

Cuttings:

Cuttings are best taken in late winter or early spring.

Use 100mm to 150mm cuttings that are from present season’s growth.

1 Prepare the cutting mix by adding one third sharp clean river sand, one third peat and one third perlite. These ingredients are sterilized,

2 Select good material from non-diseased plants,

3 Select semi green stems for cuttings. Look for a stem with two or three nodes,

4 Place the cutting on a flat, hard surface, and make a clean slice through the middle of the lower node on an angle towards the base, with a sterilized sharp knife or razor blade. – This scarification of the node will increase the chances of roots emerging from this spot. Now remove all but one or two the leaves, leaving the apex leaves in tact. If the leaves are very large in proportion to the stem, cut off the apical halves.

5 Some plants root easily, but a rooting hormone can help others by stimulating the cutting into sending out new roots. Fill a saucer with water, and place some rooting hormone into another container like a bottle top. Dip the node end of the cutting into the water and then into the rooting hormone. Tap off any excess hormone,

6 Use a small dipple stick or old pencil to poke a hole into the soilless potting mix. Ensure the hole is slightly larger than the stem diameter and be careful not to wipe the rooting hormone off the cuttings base, place the cuttings in a pattern ensuring the cuttings are not touching each other,

7 I like to place the pots in Plastic bags to help maintain temperature and moisture. Place in a semi shaded place like under 50% shade cloth.

8 When the cuttings have struck, open the bag to allow air circulation for a few days to a week,

9 Once hardened off remove the cuttings from the bag and allow to further hardening for a few more days,

10 Transplant into a good potting mix to grow on.

Further Comments from Readers:

“Hi reader, it seems you use The Bible of Botany a lot. That’s great as we have great pleasure in bringing it to you! It’s a little awkward for us to ask, but our first aim is to purchase land approximately 1,600 hectares to link several parcels of N.P. into one at The Pinnacles NSW Australia, but we need your help. We’re not salespeople. We’re amateur botanists who have dedicated over 30 years to saving the environment in a practical way. We depend on donations to reach our goal. If you donate just $5, the price of your coffee this Sunday, We can help to keep the planet alive in a real way and continue to bring you regular updates and features on Australian plants all in one Botanical Bible. Any support is greatly appreciated. Thank you.”

In the spirit of reconciliation, we acknowledge the Bundjalung, Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl and all aboriginal nations throughout Australia and their connections to land, sea and community. We pay our respect to their Elders past, present and future for the pleasures we have gained.

Here are two photos of Cyperus gracilis which were found at The Pinnacles NSW. Ths would make an attractive small clump grass in a semi shaded rock garden on periodic damp soils.

Have included six new photos of Synoum glandulosum from Indigenous Scapes Capalaba south east Queensland.

I have added nine new photos of Toechima tenax. If any one has some good photos of the flowers I would love to include them on the site.

Aristolochia laheyana has had a photo added of a mature twining stem and two photos of the unripen fruit.

Aotus subglauca has had six photos added.

The swamp orchid Cryptostylis subulata has given a superb display this year following good winter rains and mild temperatures.

Have added the three photographs of Remusatia vivipara to the site. Sprouted bulbils can be seen surrounding the parent plant. The leaves make a striking addition to any sheltered or rainforest garden. It prefers early morning or late afternoon sunlight or light shade all day and is easy to grow at least as far south as Grafton or Coffs Harbour. Can’t wait for the end of the wet season to photograph the flower spike and mature bulbils this year.

Melaleuca citrina, which is still widely known as Callistemon citrinus is a common small red flowering shrub found in suburbia.

Lobelia andrewsii is another small flowering herb, which is often over looked when bush walking despite having deep, vibrant purple flowers with unusual shaped petals.

Hybanthus monopetalus is one of those small unobtrusive small woodland flowers, which are often over looked when bush walking.

I was getting game this week with photographing a grass, which is not my strong point. Entolasia marginata is a relatively common flat grass found in dry sclerophyll forests.

Another Dipodium photographed this week in flower is Dipodium variegatum. This one has much deeper coloured spots than previous ones I have found and had immature seed pods.

The beautiful small ground orchid Dipodium punctatum has another photo of the flower added.

Another allusive flower for me was Acronychia oblongifolia, which has now been photographed at The Pinnacles was a welcome sight to follow from bud to flower.

Recently photographed Ehretia acuminata subsp. acuminata in flower and now know why it is so difficult to catch. The flower buds open with the flowers fading within a week. The beauty of having the plants in the garden as Theophrastus noted, “You don’t have to trek for days to study them.” It is also relevant to note if you do not get the photo you need it’s just a matter of stepping outside and doing the shoot again. And again, and again if necessary. Now to follow the fertilized flowers through to the green fruits then seed dispersal.

Cupaniopsis: [ku-pa-ni-op-sis] Is named in honour of Fransesco Cupania; 1657-1710, who was an Italian botanist and Opsis which is Ancient Greek for to take the shape or form of. It refers to the trees resembling the Cupania genus in North America, which was named prior to the Australian genus being discovered. A good example is Cupaniopsis
anarcharioides.

Anacardioides: [an-a-kar-di-oi-deez] From Anakardia, which is Ancient Greek for the cashew nut and Eîdos/Oîdes, which are Ancient Greek suffixes for alike or similar to. It refers to the close resemblance of the leaves and flowers to the Anacardium genus. A good example is Cupaniopsis anachariodes.

Well I am back on line after a long spell of updating the 26,000 plant names in the glossary to make them simpler and easier to pronounce. Many readers remarked on the difficulty they had in speaking the Ancient Greek, Latin and other languages into our Aussie Lingo. The best secret is to only use the lower case Roman alphabet a, b, c etc. not A,B,C. “a” is said as a in cat or bat. ‘ph” in Ancient Greek is said as a “f” – physics and ‘c’ and”ch” are said as “k” – competitor and chemist. See you already knew a lot of Ancient Greek words.

Unfortunately in modern speaking some words are changing. Many people now say kyoo-pan-i-op-sis instead of cu-pan-i-op-sis.

Again thanks to Susan Roberts for her photos of a mature Cupaniopsis anachariodes on the Manning River NSW.

Flindersia xanthoxyla showing a straight, non fibrous bole.

Carpobrotus virescens – Native Pig face with excellent fleshy leaves with non volatile oils as a ground cover.

Einadia hastata depicting fleshy leaves with a saline content.

14.03.2024 back on line at last and hope to have more items more often thanks to David from DNCS – David Nysen Computer Services. I will start with 4 photos from Fire Retardant Plants.

11.12.2023 1 photo of Monolepta australis and flowering times.

The style is less than 2mm in length. The flowers are reported to appear from August to November, however I have found the trees start flowering as early as late May here at The Pinnacles through to early October in different seasons. Though small, the yellowish-green, profusion of flowers will be noticed by the delightful honey scented fragrance they emit. Our nine trees never flower at the same time which means we have an extended flowering and fruiting period over several months. We have recorded the first flowers starting as early as the 22nd of May and commencing as late as late August and finishing in early October. The trees in any single season commence flowering up to five weeks after the first tree flowers.

Cupaniopsis anachardioides’ is one of those trees that is very much under rated by gardeners but responds very favourably to a gardener’s attention. Try using the trees in irregular patterns on the lawn or as a central feature of two or three trees. Branches can be trimmed from an early stage to allow quicker growth so you can walk below the trees and enjoy the shade they provide or do some gardening. Do not force the trees in their early stages of establishment as it can become top heavy and lean over or have branches snap off. The trees are considered a noxious weed in several states in America and I have found after 15 years many seedlings around the property which I have removed indicating it could become troublesome if not handled correctly.

The Macropus rufogriseus (red neck wallaby) has been observed feeding on the new growth and flowers that it can reach so may eat seedlings that emerge.

Danni Church https://anpsa.org.au/plant_profiles/anigozanthos-manglesii/

Photo 1 Ashley Field – Cooktown Orchid, Queensland and Cooktown City Council’s floral emblems.

Photo 2 Danni Church – Green Kangaroo Paw, Western Australia’s floral emblem.

Photo 3 Brian Walters – Sturt’s Desert Pea South Australia’s floral emblem.

05.12.2023 added photos of Grevillea banksii with Acrobates pygmaeus.

05.12.2023 added photos of Platysace heterophylla.

05.12.2023 added photo of Jagerra pseudorhus.

Jagera pseudorhus’sfruit is an ovoid capsule. The capsules measure 15mm to 20mm in length by 13mm to 18mm in diameter. They are densely covered in long, stiff, rusty-red to rusty-orange hirtellous hairs. The green capsules turn a deep crimson then finally to a bright orange or orange-yellow as the fruits ripen. The woody to fleshy capsules dehisce into 3 valves to reveal three deep brown to black glabrous, glossy seeds embedded in an internal layer of rusty hirtellous hairs. The ovoid to oblong seeds measure 6mm to 7.5mm in length by 4mm to 5mm diameter. The small white aril is basil.

Wildlife:

Jagera pseudorhus’s seeds are eaten by several larger honeyeaters like the Noisy friar bird Philemon corniculatusnoisy, Noisy minor Manorina melanocephala, satin bowerbird Ptilonorhynchus violaceus and the Queensland Rifle bird Ptiloris paradiseus.

Propagation:

Seeds: Jagera pseudorhus seeds need to be fresh preferably picked from the tree when fully ripe or freshly dropped to the ground, remove the seeds from the capsules being careful not to get the irritating hairs on the skin and remove the aril from the seed for better results.

The seeds need to be sown within two weeks and can be sown directly into a seed raising mix. Cover them with 5mm to 6mm of fine weed free mulch and keep moist. Place the tray in a warm sunny position. When the seedlings are 20mm to 30mm tall, prick them out and plant them into 50mm native tubes using a good organic mix.

Once the seedlings reach 100mm to 150mm in height they can be planted out into their permanent position.

Fertilize using Seaweed, fish emulsion or organic chicken pellets soaked in water and apply the liquid on an alternate basis. Fertilize every 2 months until the plants are well established then on an annual basis in September or March to maintain good health, vigour and better flowering.